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how on earth to install new springs?

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    #16
    OK-- two questions!

    The spring on the left had this large rubber washer, if you will, that capped it off on the top. Nothing on the bottom. Fell off of course, used some wheel bearing grease to hold it up there while I got the spring in place.

    The spring on the right had no such thing....
    Is it important to get one?


    Question #2.
    In the course of thinking I'd get heavier duty shocks, I removed the left rear shock completely. When I found out the new sensatracs didn't fit, I went to screw it back on.
    As another poster already mentioned, where these fasten is a PITA.

    Well, I got the shock in there, lined up the rubber grommet (it might have another name), then the washer that backs it, and then started putting on the nut, which was by far the trickiest to align since it threads on and is small. Started putting it on, and MAN was it tight. Something was wrong, took it off, realized i was using the nut from the sensatrac shock (one is probably 3/8-16 and the other 3/8-24).
    So I find the other nut with the finer thread, and start putting it on.
    Better... but not by enough. Still very tight. Without a lift I just can't even get the leverage to tighten it on, but, there's no reason it should be that tight anyway.
    It's late, dark, cold, I'm tired, and I need my car tomorrow --hech, I needed it today, but I ended up cutting class-- so I didn't give it a third try.

    So right now I've got a shock that's solid on the bottom, and just a little bit loose at the top. As in if you push it hard, you can get it to move over.

    Now, it's not going to fall off, not that nut, tight as it is; and unless my car gets airborn I imagine that that shock is pressing down, not pulling up, 90% of the time? In its range, I can see it pulling up some of the time, however.

    I'm thinking it's roadworthy, but I'm wondering how urgently I need to look at it again...
    I'm going to take it to a mechanic I've know for a while for new tires Friday, maybe while he's got it on the lift and is mounting the tires he'll let me look at my shock, this time in a rather more comfortable position!
    Of all tools, I'd say that I'd love to have a lift. I wonder if any are outdoor-rated, won't rust to pieces?
    Last edited by BerniniCaCO3; 11-29-2010, 07:04 PM.

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      #17
      Oh and, btw, the ride height is definitely higher even unloaded.
      No doubt about the old springs.

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        #18
        The rubber doughnut things are spring isolators. They are there so you dont have metal on metal contact with the body. The one side without one make make some clanking noise going over bumps.

        Get the car on a lift and try to tighten up the upper shock bolt as much as you can...maybe even remove it and thread it on off the car to ensure that the threads were not messed up when the other nut was put on. I tightened mine as much as I could..once the shock started to spin I held it with some channel locks and continued to tighten. I'd say the way you currently have it is too loose.
        ~David~

        My 1987 Crown Victoria Coupe: The Brown Blob
        My 2004 Mercedes Benz E320:The Benz

        Originally posted by ootdega
        My life is a long series of "nevermind" and "I guess not."

        Originally posted by DerekTheGreat
        But, that's just coming from me, this site's biggest pessimist. Best of luck

        Originally posted by gadget73
        my car starts and it has AC. Yours doesn't start and it has no AC. Seems obvious to me.




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          #19
          another trick to get the old springs out is to put the jackstands under the frame, then put your floor jack on the opposite end of the axle from where you're working. Jack the axle up, and the side you're working on will move downward, usually giving you enough room to pop the old spring out.
          86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
          5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

          91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

          1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

          Originally posted by phayzer5
          I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

          Everything looks like voodoo if you don't understand how it works

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            #20
            I did that and the old spring straight up fell out.
            Originally posted by gadget73
            There is nothing more permanent than a temporary fix.
            91 Mercury CP, Lopo 302, AOD, 3.08LSD. 3g upgrade, Moog wagon coils up front, cc819s in the back. KYB GR-2 police shocks. Energy suspension control arm bushings. Smog deleted.
            93 F-150 XLT, 302, ZF 5-spd from 1-ton, 4wd.
            Daily--07 Civic Coupe. Bone stock with 25k miles
            Wife--14 Subaru Outback. 6-speed.
            95 Subaru Legacy Wagon--red--STOLEN 1/6/13

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              #21
              Originally posted by Piece-it pete View Post
              Is it a wagon? All 4 panthers I've done, cargo were shorter than stock, I had to keep monkeying back and forth between the springs and the jack to be sure they seated properly.

              Pete
              yeah the cargos I have had a shorter free height than the stock springs that I took out, but I could put my weight on the cargo coils and barely compress them.
              sigpic


              - 1990 Ford LTD Crown Victoria P72 - the street boat - 5.0 liter EFI - Ported HO intake/TB, 90 TC shroud/overflow, Aero airbox/zip tube, Cobra camshaft, 19lb injectors, dual exhaust w/ Magnaflows, Cat/Smog & AC delete, 3G alternator, MOOG chassis parts & KYB cop shocks, 215/70r/15s on 95-97 Merc rims

              - 2007 Ford Escape XLT - soccer mom lifted station wagon - 3.0 Duratec, auto, rear converter delete w/ Magnaflow dual exhaust

              - 2008 Mercury Grand Marquis Ultimate Edition - Daily driver - 4.6 2 valve Mod motor, 4R75E, 2.73s. Bone stock

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                #22
                yeah, I know the shock isn't on right.
                Probably cross0threaded it with that first nut (I did indeed use a large wrench to grip the body of the shock), which meant the correct one wouldn't go on later. Pull it out, run a die down it to clean up the threads, reinstall.
                It felt alright tonight, I think it should be safe for rest of teh week.

                @1990LTD: just noticed your signature! I have the same exact coils, moog cc819.
                Funny that your standard coils were longer-- mine were the same. However, even worn out, I still can barely compress them trying to balance my weight on my old wagon coils. Probably were designed to be stiffer anyway; just softened with age. Putting 100# partial weight on them however isn't the same as the rear end of the car + 600#, so just because the new ones and the old ones seem as stiff under foot, it isn't a real test.

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                  #23
                  yeah I got them because so many folks here recommend them...they seemed to be the strongest ones for the rear of this car and I was going for the rake that they give which I'm liking...probably sits your wagon level though.
                  sigpic


                  - 1990 Ford LTD Crown Victoria P72 - the street boat - 5.0 liter EFI - Ported HO intake/TB, 90 TC shroud/overflow, Aero airbox/zip tube, Cobra camshaft, 19lb injectors, dual exhaust w/ Magnaflows, Cat/Smog & AC delete, 3G alternator, MOOG chassis parts & KYB cop shocks, 215/70r/15s on 95-97 Merc rims

                  - 2007 Ford Escape XLT - soccer mom lifted station wagon - 3.0 Duratec, auto, rear converter delete w/ Magnaflow dual exhaust

                  - 2008 Mercury Grand Marquis Ultimate Edition - Daily driver - 4.6 2 valve Mod motor, 4R75E, 2.73s. Bone stock

                  Comment


                    #24
                    yeah, it's level-- I think empty it sits just a touch higher. The real test will be the next time I move several hundred pounds, but that won't be for a little while.

                    I've noticed --definitely, no doubts now-- that there's a shake that I can feel through the steering wheel, over 60mph.

                    Could it be that shock?
                    Teachers didn't think so.
                    And logically there's not much I could have touched.
                    If a rear tire is out of balance, could new cargo coils versus (probably original) old springs that had gone soft, cause me to feel it much more?
                    Couldn't have bent an axle or damaged a bearing or anything drastic, just putting in new springs?
                    Last edited by BerniniCaCO3; 12-01-2010, 03:21 AM.

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                      #25
                      I would be looking at the front suspension and tires if you feel it in the steering wheel.
                      1990 LTD Crown Vic w/ dead 5.0
                      1984 Pontiac 6000 cammed 2.5L Iron Duke
                      1986 F-150 300 6cyl 5spd.
                      1994 Crown Vic... Free, bad trans?

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                        #26
                        Check tire balance
                        Originally posted by gadget73
                        There is nothing more permanent than a temporary fix.
                        91 Mercury CP, Lopo 302, AOD, 3.08LSD. 3g upgrade, Moog wagon coils up front, cc819s in the back. KYB GR-2 police shocks. Energy suspension control arm bushings. Smog deleted.
                        93 F-150 XLT, 302, ZF 5-spd from 1-ton, 4wd.
                        Daily--07 Civic Coupe. Bone stock with 25k miles
                        Wife--14 Subaru Outback. 6-speed.
                        95 Subaru Legacy Wagon--red--STOLEN 1/6/13

                        Comment

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