Call me crazy, but I like ABS, and I'm doing a little bit of research on how to make this work in a box. And from the look of it, it seems pretty straight forward.
Basically this is what is needed: front spindles/hubs from a panther with abs. Now the perfect application, which most people normally go to anyway is the Big brake swap, which that stuff already has the reluctor ring, and place for the wheel speed sensors.
Same applies to the rear brakes, you need the reluctor rings on the axle, originally equipped rear disc brake panthers will most likely have this or have the provisions to work with abs.
You'll need the wheel speed sensors from all 4 wheels, the wiring harness for the abs system, the ABS controller, the hydraulic control unit, a pedal travel switch. I will explain what each thing does below.
Now, there's actually a choice between between solely ABS, and ABS with traction control, which consists of the same stuff, but with proportioning valves in the abs hydraulic control unit for the rear brakes. The traction control basically sets the control unit to apply the rear brake that is slipping to help make traction.
The HCU consists of the valve body for the plumbing of the abs/traction control system; 2 inlets from the master cylinder (for front and rear) 4 outlets (Left front, Right front, Left rear, and Right rear brakes). It also has the ABS pump motor, solenoids and, if equipped with traction control, proportioning valves (the HCU with traction control also has an automatic disable feature to keep the rear brakes from overheating) A switch could be wired in to manually turn off traction assist. This unit will be mounted somewhere below the master cylinder, I'll have to look at the '94 when it's nice out to see where and how it's attached to the car.
The ABS controller is the Control module of the ABS/traction control system. It monitors all of the wheel sensors at all time, even when the ABS isn't activated (normal braking). It also monitors the level of the brake fluid, speed of the ABS pump (in the HCU), the travel of the brake pedal (Pedal Travel Switch) and application of brakes (BOO).
The ABS module is located on the front of the radiator support.
The Brake Pedal Travel Switch monitors brake pedal travel and sends this information to the ABS module through the wire harness. The switch adjustment is critical to pedal feel during ABS cycling.
This switch is NOT the Brake On Off switch!
The switch is mounted to the dump valve adapter bracket and to the ABS adapter bracket mounted inside the brake pedal support.
The switch is normally closed. When brake pedal travel exceeds the switch setting during an anti-lock stop, the electronic controller senses that the switch is open and grounds the pump motor relay coil. This energizes the relay and turns the pump motor on. When the pump motor is running, the master cylinder is filled with high pressure brake fluid and the brake pedal will be pushed up until the switch closes. When the switch closes, the pump is turned off and the pedal will drop some with each ABS control cycle until the travel switch opens again and the pump is turned on again. This minimizes pedal feedback during ABS cycling. If the pedal travel switch is not adjusted properly or is not electrically connected, it will result in objectionable pedal feel during ABS stops. Most concerns with the switch or its installation will result in the pump running during the entire ABS stop. The pedal will become very firm, pushing the driver's foot up to an unusually high position.
The attachment of the pedal travel switch might need some elbow grease to set it up properly, maybe not. Won't know until I get more serious about this. The attachment of the HCU, and the abs control module may also need some work to make it fit.
Basically this is what is needed: front spindles/hubs from a panther with abs. Now the perfect application, which most people normally go to anyway is the Big brake swap, which that stuff already has the reluctor ring, and place for the wheel speed sensors.
Same applies to the rear brakes, you need the reluctor rings on the axle, originally equipped rear disc brake panthers will most likely have this or have the provisions to work with abs.
You'll need the wheel speed sensors from all 4 wheels, the wiring harness for the abs system, the ABS controller, the hydraulic control unit, a pedal travel switch. I will explain what each thing does below.
Now, there's actually a choice between between solely ABS, and ABS with traction control, which consists of the same stuff, but with proportioning valves in the abs hydraulic control unit for the rear brakes. The traction control basically sets the control unit to apply the rear brake that is slipping to help make traction.
The HCU consists of the valve body for the plumbing of the abs/traction control system; 2 inlets from the master cylinder (for front and rear) 4 outlets (Left front, Right front, Left rear, and Right rear brakes). It also has the ABS pump motor, solenoids and, if equipped with traction control, proportioning valves (the HCU with traction control also has an automatic disable feature to keep the rear brakes from overheating) A switch could be wired in to manually turn off traction assist. This unit will be mounted somewhere below the master cylinder, I'll have to look at the '94 when it's nice out to see where and how it's attached to the car.
The ABS controller is the Control module of the ABS/traction control system. It monitors all of the wheel sensors at all time, even when the ABS isn't activated (normal braking). It also monitors the level of the brake fluid, speed of the ABS pump (in the HCU), the travel of the brake pedal (Pedal Travel Switch) and application of brakes (BOO).
The ABS module is located on the front of the radiator support.
The Brake Pedal Travel Switch monitors brake pedal travel and sends this information to the ABS module through the wire harness. The switch adjustment is critical to pedal feel during ABS cycling.
This switch is NOT the Brake On Off switch!
The switch is mounted to the dump valve adapter bracket and to the ABS adapter bracket mounted inside the brake pedal support.
The switch is normally closed. When brake pedal travel exceeds the switch setting during an anti-lock stop, the electronic controller senses that the switch is open and grounds the pump motor relay coil. This energizes the relay and turns the pump motor on. When the pump motor is running, the master cylinder is filled with high pressure brake fluid and the brake pedal will be pushed up until the switch closes. When the switch closes, the pump is turned off and the pedal will drop some with each ABS control cycle until the travel switch opens again and the pump is turned on again. This minimizes pedal feedback during ABS cycling. If the pedal travel switch is not adjusted properly or is not electrically connected, it will result in objectionable pedal feel during ABS stops. Most concerns with the switch or its installation will result in the pump running during the entire ABS stop. The pedal will become very firm, pushing the driver's foot up to an unusually high position.
The attachment of the pedal travel switch might need some elbow grease to set it up properly, maybe not. Won't know until I get more serious about this. The attachment of the HCU, and the abs control module may also need some work to make it fit.
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