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    tie rod ends

    Is it worth it to buy Moog? I need outers and I see a huge price difference on RockAuto...I want them soon though so I might just buy whatever the parts store has in stock if it doesn't much matter.

    I don't want to have to replace the things again in 6 months but I don't wanna spend that money if I don't need to.


    Are they the same on both sides of our cars? Should you usually replace the inner/outer at the same time? Shop that installed my tires said I need outers before it can be aligned, but all they said was outer.
    sigpic


    - 1990 Ford LTD Crown Victoria P72 - the street boat - 5.0 liter EFI - Ported HO intake/TB, 90 TC shroud/overflow, Aero airbox/zip tube, Cobra camshaft, 19lb injectors, dual exhaust w/ Magnaflows, Cat/Smog & AC delete, 3G alternator, MOOG chassis parts & KYB cop shocks, 215/70r/15s on 95-97 Merc rims

    - 2007 Ford Escape XLT - soccer mom lifted station wagon - 3.0 Duratec, auto, rear converter delete w/ Magnaflow dual exhaust

    - 2008 Mercury Grand Marquis Ultimate Edition - Daily driver - 4.6 2 valve Mod motor, 4R75E, 2.73s. Bone stock

    #2
    I think the inner/outer differ a little in length, but yes they are a mirror image from side to side.
    As long as you get something greasable, they should last at least a few years. The better stuff may last a few more years, or more.
    If you are doing it yourself, you don't necessarily have to do them all at once, you won't be saving that much time. You'll have to get another alignment, but that and another afternoon is about all you would save.

    Unless... your tie rod sleeves are really rusty and wont loosen up. Then just go ahead and get all 4 tie rods and new sleeves (sleeves are cheap)
    I forgot to consider your location... lol
    Pete ::::>>> resident LED addict and CFI defector LED bulb replacements
    'LTD HPP' 85 Vic (my rusty baby) '06 Honda Reflex 250cc 'Baileys' 91 Vic (faded cream puff) ClifFord 'ODB' 88 P72 (SOLD) '77 LTDII (RIP)
    sigpic
    85HPP's most noteworthy mods: CFI to SEFI conversion w/HO upperstuff headers & flowmasters P71 airbox Towncar seats LED dash light-show center console w/5 gauge package LED 3rd brake light 3G alternator mini starter washer/coolant bottle upgrade Towncar power trunk pull underhood fuse/relay box 16" HPP wheels - police swaybars w/poly rubbers - budget Alpine driven 10 speaker stereo

    Comment


      #3
      Buy the Moog. It's doubtful you'll have to think about them again.
      Originally posted by gadget73
      There is nothing more permanent than a temporary fix.
      91 Mercury CP, Lopo 302, AOD, 3.08LSD. 3g upgrade, Moog wagon coils up front, cc819s in the back. KYB GR-2 police shocks. Energy suspension control arm bushings. Smog deleted.
      93 F-150 XLT, 302, ZF 5-spd from 1-ton, 4wd.
      Daily--07 Civic Coupe. Bone stock with 25k miles
      Wife--14 Subaru Outback. 6-speed.
      95 Subaru Legacy Wagon--red--STOLEN 1/6/13

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        #4
        Last I got balljointey stuff, I bought TRW. Made in Michigan.
        2012 Mazda5 Touring | Finally working on the LTD again!

        Comment


          #5
          thanks guys! I will buy what I can afford at the moment and replace all of 'em. I don't want to replace the outer ones now and the inner ones midway through the winter if they decide to break.
          sigpic


          - 1990 Ford LTD Crown Victoria P72 - the street boat - 5.0 liter EFI - Ported HO intake/TB, 90 TC shroud/overflow, Aero airbox/zip tube, Cobra camshaft, 19lb injectors, dual exhaust w/ Magnaflows, Cat/Smog & AC delete, 3G alternator, MOOG chassis parts & KYB cop shocks, 215/70r/15s on 95-97 Merc rims

          - 2007 Ford Escape XLT - soccer mom lifted station wagon - 3.0 Duratec, auto, rear converter delete w/ Magnaflow dual exhaust

          - 2008 Mercury Grand Marquis Ultimate Edition - Daily driver - 4.6 2 valve Mod motor, 4R75E, 2.73s. Bone stock

          Comment


            #6
            MOOG is a good buy. I use their stuff on all of my front end stuff. I replaced the pitman, idler arms, and inner and outer tie rod ends almost 2 years ago, the front end is still very tight. No play in the steering. Replace it all at once, I'm telling you now, to save yourself time and money. I did all my steering stuff in one night, set everything as close to how it was before (the old ends were really trashed). It drove down the road straight, but the steering wheel was off. Had it aligned the next day, drove straight, and the steering wheel was nice and level.

            Replace it all, and then have it aligned once, it's cheaper that way.

            Comment


              #7
              yeah an alignment is the better part of a hundred bucks, usually 60ish. paying for that twice would be able to pay for all of my tie rod ends
              sigpic


              - 1990 Ford LTD Crown Victoria P72 - the street boat - 5.0 liter EFI - Ported HO intake/TB, 90 TC shroud/overflow, Aero airbox/zip tube, Cobra camshaft, 19lb injectors, dual exhaust w/ Magnaflows, Cat/Smog & AC delete, 3G alternator, MOOG chassis parts & KYB cop shocks, 215/70r/15s on 95-97 Merc rims

              - 2007 Ford Escape XLT - soccer mom lifted station wagon - 3.0 Duratec, auto, rear converter delete w/ Magnaflow dual exhaust

              - 2008 Mercury Grand Marquis Ultimate Edition - Daily driver - 4.6 2 valve Mod motor, 4R75E, 2.73s. Bone stock

              Comment


                #8
                make sure the tierod ends are in the right spot otherwis you will go through tires too.
                89 townie, mild exhuast up grades, soon to have loud ass stereo....

                Comment


                  #9
                  Originally posted by zoomie View Post
                  make sure the tierod ends are in the right spot otherwis you will go through tires too.
                  That's why you get an alignment.
                  2020 F250 - 7.3 4x4 CCSB STX 3.55's - BAKFlip MX4
                  2005 Grand Marquis GS - Marauder sway bars, Marauder exhaust, KYB's
                  2003 Marauder - Trilogy # 8, JLT, kooks, 2.5" exhaust, 4.10's/31 spline, widened rear's, metco's, addco's, ridetech's 415hp/381tq
                  1987 Colony Park - 03+ frame swap, blown Gen II Coyote, 6R80, ridetechs, stainless works, absolute money pit. WIP

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Actually, setting the toe is perfectly easy to do at home. No point in paying for an alignment if your camber and caster settings are already acceptable.
                    2012 Mazda5 Touring | Finally working on the LTD again!

                    Comment


                      #11
                      2 inner tie rod ends
                      2 outer tie rod ends
                      2 tie rod adjusting sleeves
                      1 pitman arm
                      1 idler arm

                      what else should i be ordering and replacing while i'm under there? ball joints are relatively new
                      Last edited by 1990LTD; 11-08-2010, 04:15 AM.
                      sigpic


                      - 1990 Ford LTD Crown Victoria P72 - the street boat - 5.0 liter EFI - Ported HO intake/TB, 90 TC shroud/overflow, Aero airbox/zip tube, Cobra camshaft, 19lb injectors, dual exhaust w/ Magnaflows, Cat/Smog & AC delete, 3G alternator, MOOG chassis parts & KYB cop shocks, 215/70r/15s on 95-97 Merc rims

                      - 2007 Ford Escape XLT - soccer mom lifted station wagon - 3.0 Duratec, auto, rear converter delete w/ Magnaflow dual exhaust

                      - 2008 Mercury Grand Marquis Ultimate Edition - Daily driver - 4.6 2 valve Mod motor, 4R75E, 2.73s. Bone stock

                      Comment


                        #12
                        it looks like the idler arm comes with a bushing but are they usually fine (quality-wise) to use?
                        sigpic


                        - 1990 Ford LTD Crown Victoria P72 - the street boat - 5.0 liter EFI - Ported HO intake/TB, 90 TC shroud/overflow, Aero airbox/zip tube, Cobra camshaft, 19lb injectors, dual exhaust w/ Magnaflows, Cat/Smog & AC delete, 3G alternator, MOOG chassis parts & KYB cop shocks, 215/70r/15s on 95-97 Merc rims

                        - 2007 Ford Escape XLT - soccer mom lifted station wagon - 3.0 Duratec, auto, rear converter delete w/ Magnaflow dual exhaust

                        - 2008 Mercury Grand Marquis Ultimate Edition - Daily driver - 4.6 2 valve Mod motor, 4R75E, 2.73s. Bone stock

                        Comment


                          #13
                          oh I forgot to put sway bar links on that list...I have bushings for it too.
                          sigpic


                          - 1990 Ford LTD Crown Victoria P72 - the street boat - 5.0 liter EFI - Ported HO intake/TB, 90 TC shroud/overflow, Aero airbox/zip tube, Cobra camshaft, 19lb injectors, dual exhaust w/ Magnaflows, Cat/Smog & AC delete, 3G alternator, MOOG chassis parts & KYB cop shocks, 215/70r/15s on 95-97 Merc rims

                          - 2007 Ford Escape XLT - soccer mom lifted station wagon - 3.0 Duratec, auto, rear converter delete w/ Magnaflow dual exhaust

                          - 2008 Mercury Grand Marquis Ultimate Edition - Daily driver - 4.6 2 valve Mod motor, 4R75E, 2.73s. Bone stock

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Originally posted by 1990LTD View Post
                            2 inner tie rod ends
                            2 outer tie rod ends
                            2 tie rod adjusting sleeves
                            1 pitman arm
                            1 idler arm

                            what else should i be ordering and replacing while i'm under there? ball joints are relatively new
                            You don't need the tie rod adjusting sleeves. As long as they're in good shape you can reuse the old ones.

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Originally posted by 86VickyLX View Post
                              You don't need the tie rod adjusting sleeves. As long as they're in good shape you can reuse the old ones.
                              I'm gonna replace 'em while everything is apart anyway, just so I don't have to think about the front end again for a long assed time.
                              sigpic


                              - 1990 Ford LTD Crown Victoria P72 - the street boat - 5.0 liter EFI - Ported HO intake/TB, 90 TC shroud/overflow, Aero airbox/zip tube, Cobra camshaft, 19lb injectors, dual exhaust w/ Magnaflows, Cat/Smog & AC delete, 3G alternator, MOOG chassis parts & KYB cop shocks, 215/70r/15s on 95-97 Merc rims

                              - 2007 Ford Escape XLT - soccer mom lifted station wagon - 3.0 Duratec, auto, rear converter delete w/ Magnaflow dual exhaust

                              - 2008 Mercury Grand Marquis Ultimate Edition - Daily driver - 4.6 2 valve Mod motor, 4R75E, 2.73s. Bone stock

                              Comment

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