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a rear end swap might be in my future

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    a rear end swap might be in my future

    Need to do rear axle seals apparently. My mechanic said it's basically all got to come apart.


    Where to go from here? I assume if he's got the rear end apart then it'd be just as easy to put a track lock (what is the correct spelling of that, by the way?) unit back in. Am I correct in assuming that?


    I think I want to keep the 3.08 gears I have. It's not a racecar and I don't want mileage getting worse.
    sigpic


    - 1990 Ford LTD Crown Victoria P72 - the street boat - 5.0 liter EFI - Ported HO intake/TB, 90 TC shroud/overflow, Aero airbox/zip tube, Cobra camshaft, 19lb injectors, dual exhaust w/ Magnaflows, Cat/Smog & AC delete, 3G alternator, MOOG chassis parts & KYB cop shocks, 215/70r/15s on 95-97 Merc rims

    - 2007 Ford Escape XLT - soccer mom lifted station wagon - 3.0 Duratec, auto, rear converter delete w/ Magnaflow dual exhaust

    - 2008 Mercury Grand Marquis Ultimate Edition - Daily driver - 4.6 2 valve Mod motor, 4R75E, 2.73s. Bone stock

    #2
    its a carrier swap, no big deal, but it does involved re-shimming. Replacing the axle seals doesn't actually require full dissasembly of the rear, but its probably not a bad idea. if the seals are bad, most likely the outer bearings are also shot. If those are shot, the axles are probably toast too. Just plan on this being more than $30 worth of seals.
    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

    Originally posted by phayzer5
    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

    Comment


      #3
      cunt.


      only one of the seals (DS) is starting to seep a little bit. i know it's going to take a fair amount of time to actually do the work but i didn't think i'd have to swap that much. crap.


      what do you think would be a better move; replace whatever needs replacing, or find a complete panther rear axle assembly and swap?
      sigpic


      - 1990 Ford LTD Crown Victoria P72 - the street boat - 5.0 liter EFI - Ported HO intake/TB, 90 TC shroud/overflow, Aero airbox/zip tube, Cobra camshaft, 19lb injectors, dual exhaust w/ Magnaflows, Cat/Smog & AC delete, 3G alternator, MOOG chassis parts & KYB cop shocks, 215/70r/15s on 95-97 Merc rims

      - 2007 Ford Escape XLT - soccer mom lifted station wagon - 3.0 Duratec, auto, rear converter delete w/ Magnaflow dual exhaust

      - 2008 Mercury Grand Marquis Ultimate Edition - Daily driver - 4.6 2 valve Mod motor, 4R75E, 2.73s. Bone stock

      Comment


        #4
        You can go to 3.55's or 3.73's and you won't see a drop in milage. You city milage may actually get better. Just a thought.


        '90 LX 5.0 mustang
        Big plans

        Comment


          #5
          I would really love more gear but my mileage would actually remain around the same? I suppose it'll have to do less work...I don't know anything on the subject though. Could you share your thoughts/reasoning?
          sigpic


          - 1990 Ford LTD Crown Victoria P72 - the street boat - 5.0 liter EFI - Ported HO intake/TB, 90 TC shroud/overflow, Aero airbox/zip tube, Cobra camshaft, 19lb injectors, dual exhaust w/ Magnaflows, Cat/Smog & AC delete, 3G alternator, MOOG chassis parts & KYB cop shocks, 215/70r/15s on 95-97 Merc rims

          - 2007 Ford Escape XLT - soccer mom lifted station wagon - 3.0 Duratec, auto, rear converter delete w/ Magnaflow dual exhaust

          - 2008 Mercury Grand Marquis Ultimate Edition - Daily driver - 4.6 2 valve Mod motor, 4R75E, 2.73s. Bone stock

          Comment


            #6
            Your mechanic must not like working on rear axles at all if he thinks rear axle seals require nearly full disassembly. I'd call it a nice easy money maker for a shop.

            Alex.

            Comment


              #7
              Originally posted by 1990LTD View Post
              I would really love more gear but my mileage would actually remain around the same? I suppose it'll have to do less work...I don't know anything on the subject though. Could you share your thoughts/reasoning?
              Going from 3.08's to 3.55's I noticed no change in mileage in my 91. And I do about 80% highway driving. If your going to completely rebuild your rear end, go the extra mile and throw some gears and a T-loc in it.
              2020 F250 - 7.3 4x4 CCSB STX 3.55's - BAKFlip MX4
              2005 Grand Marquis GS - Marauder sway bars, Marauder exhaust, KYB's
              2003 Marauder - Trilogy # 8, JLT, kooks, 2.5" exhaust, 4.10's/31 spline, widened rear's, metco's, addco's, ridetech's 415hp/381tq
              1987 Colony Park - 03+ frame swap, blown Gen II Coyote, 6R80, ridetechs, stainless works, absolute money pit. WIP

              Comment


                #8
                He used basically the same reasoning gadget did...if X part is gone, Y part isn't far behind, and Z part goes when Y part goes. If I have to rebuild the whole thing it'll get shorter gears and a TL but if I can make it just replacing the one seal, that's good by me.


                It's not a shop.


                Would you need to take the pumpkin cover off to replenish whatever fluid has leaked out?
                Last edited by 1990LTD; 08-05-2010, 09:48 PM.
                sigpic


                - 1990 Ford LTD Crown Victoria P72 - the street boat - 5.0 liter EFI - Ported HO intake/TB, 90 TC shroud/overflow, Aero airbox/zip tube, Cobra camshaft, 19lb injectors, dual exhaust w/ Magnaflows, Cat/Smog & AC delete, 3G alternator, MOOG chassis parts & KYB cop shocks, 215/70r/15s on 95-97 Merc rims

                - 2007 Ford Escape XLT - soccer mom lifted station wagon - 3.0 Duratec, auto, rear converter delete w/ Magnaflow dual exhaust

                - 2008 Mercury Grand Marquis Ultimate Edition - Daily driver - 4.6 2 valve Mod motor, 4R75E, 2.73s. Bone stock

                Comment


                  #9
                  There is a plug on the front side on top of the pinion on the drivers side of the center section it's a 3/8 drive to remove it. I am the type like your saying if I doing something I like to go ahead and replace everything while I'm there. Might go ahead and do the 8 clutch rebuild on the t-lok while your doing it and get it nice and tight. You should see no negetive affects on milage from 3.55's. I would go with 3.73's but I like a little gear. I have heard people say 3.73's are as much as you want with the lopo cam, but I have no expirience with that.

                  Cliffs,

                  rebuild the whole rear end, do the 8 clutch rebuild on the t-lok, and go with a 3.73 IMO.


                  '90 LX 5.0 mustang
                  Big plans

                  Comment


                    #10
                    So what's actually broken? Just the seals? That's actually a really easy job, no point in paying someone to do that.
                    2012 Mazda5 Touring | Finally working on the LTD again!

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Yeah, the brake drum has fluid on it. Don't know what else could be gone as a result. Haven't lost a drop of brake fluid so that ain't it.
                      sigpic


                      - 1990 Ford LTD Crown Victoria P72 - the street boat - 5.0 liter EFI - Ported HO intake/TB, 90 TC shroud/overflow, Aero airbox/zip tube, Cobra camshaft, 19lb injectors, dual exhaust w/ Magnaflows, Cat/Smog & AC delete, 3G alternator, MOOG chassis parts & KYB cop shocks, 215/70r/15s on 95-97 Merc rims

                      - 2007 Ford Escape XLT - soccer mom lifted station wagon - 3.0 Duratec, auto, rear converter delete w/ Magnaflow dual exhaust

                      - 2008 Mercury Grand Marquis Ultimate Edition - Daily driver - 4.6 2 valve Mod motor, 4R75E, 2.73s. Bone stock

                      Comment


                        #12
                        replace what parts are broken... then you are starting with new parts... not used kinda sorta maybe parts. Just my two cents, also just find out whats broken first, the axles and bearings may be fine, especially if your mechanic says its just the seals.
                        "Shakedown"- 1991 Grand Marquis GS Dual exhaust, Magnaflow xl turbos, Rear anti sway bar, Outlaw 1 wheels, 43k miles
                        1985 GMC 1500

                        Comment


                          #13
                          I'm hopeful that I can get away with just the seal.
                          sigpic


                          - 1990 Ford LTD Crown Victoria P72 - the street boat - 5.0 liter EFI - Ported HO intake/TB, 90 TC shroud/overflow, Aero airbox/zip tube, Cobra camshaft, 19lb injectors, dual exhaust w/ Magnaflows, Cat/Smog & AC delete, 3G alternator, MOOG chassis parts & KYB cop shocks, 215/70r/15s on 95-97 Merc rims

                          - 2007 Ford Escape XLT - soccer mom lifted station wagon - 3.0 Duratec, auto, rear converter delete w/ Magnaflow dual exhaust

                          - 2008 Mercury Grand Marquis Ultimate Edition - Daily driver - 4.6 2 valve Mod motor, 4R75E, 2.73s. Bone stock

                          Comment


                            #14
                            The seal is no big deal. Pull the wheels, brake drum, axle cover (pumpkin cover). Pull the "C" clips, remove axles. Take out the old seal and put in the new one. Check the axles and bearings, replace as needed. Put it all back just like you took it out, replace the brake shoes if they are wet or oily.
                            89 CV LX 225/60 x 16 tires, CC819 rear springs, Front & rear sway bar, trans & PS cooler from 90 cop car. KYB shocks, F-150 on rear. Dual Exhaust w/ H pipe. Dark brown door panels, carpet, steering wheel, trim parts from a 87 Mer GM. Power front buckets from 96 Jeep Cherokee. LED'S front & rear. 3G Alt from a 97 Taurus wagon 3.0. Electric fan. Rear axle from a 97 PI 3.27 with disk brakes. Headlight relays.

                            Comment


                              #15
                              FWIW, I'd consider replacing the wheel bearings anyway ... when I took mine out on my old '79, they looked fine to me, but I knew they were making noise, so I knew at least one of them needed replacing. You don't have to of course, if yours aren't noisy, but since the seals have to come out to get to the bearings and tend to get mangled upon removal, and IIRC bearings are fairly cheap, you'll want to at least think about it.


                              Not that I know squat about differentials, but I don't know of a reason to mess with the centersection if it's not giving you grief, unless you are particularly desirous of parts swappage.


                              Here are some snapshots from my axle-bearing replacement back in '07. Note the comments about axle condition. I didn't experience any more noise afterward, but I only had that car on the road a few more months after this, so I don't know how it would have lasted later on. EDIT: See Mercracer's post below for more experienced guidance.


                              Is it easy to rent tools like a three-jaw slide hammer and a seal driver set up there in Kanadia?
                              Last edited by 1987cp; 08-06-2010, 08:47 AM.
                              2012 Mazda5 Touring | Finally working on the LTD again!

                              Comment

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