So if I am reading this right, the old lines on my 89 should screw into the newer MC. When I go to the newer BP & MC I should get rid of the old metering block on the frame?
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89 CV LX 225/60 x 16 tires, CC819 rear springs, Front & rear sway bar, trans & PS cooler from 90 cop car. KYB shocks, F-150 on rear. Dual Exhaust w/ H pipe. Dark brown door panels, carpet, steering wheel, trim parts from a 87 Mer GM. Power front buckets from 96 Jeep Cherokee. LED'S front & rear. 3G Alt from a 97 Taurus wagon 3.0. Electric fan. Rear axle from a 97 PI 3.27 with disk brakes. Headlight relays. -
The proportioning for mid 90s ABS cars is extremely different, and I do believe the booster is also different. You do not want this. If its non-ABS, then it may work. I don't know for sure.
If you swap to a later booster and MC, you need to get rid of the block on the frame. Unsure about the lines threading in, but I suspect they would.86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley
91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry
1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal
Originally posted by phayzer5
I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousersComment
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When I replaced the rear end all I did was replace the brake lines on the axle and the parking brake. It had ABS so I pulled the sensors. I did not do anything to the front end. It stops better than it did, but I think it could do better. I have a hiss when I push on the brake so I think I have to replace the BB and MC. From what I have seen it looks like all I have to do is:
pull the old BB and MC
remove the block on the frame
replace the BB & MC (98+ non ABS with prop. valve?)
run some new lines from the block to the new MC
bleed it and it should be good to go
Or should I pull the block and see it if stops better before I do all that?89 CV LX 225/60 x 16 tires, CC819 rear springs, Front & rear sway bar, trans & PS cooler from 90 cop car. KYB shocks, F-150 on rear. Dual Exhaust w/ H pipe. Dark brown door panels, carpet, steering wheel, trim parts from a 87 Mer GM. Power front buckets from 96 Jeep Cherokee. LED'S front & rear. 3G Alt from a 97 Taurus wagon 3.0. Electric fan. Rear axle from a 97 PI 3.27 with disk brakes. Headlight relays.Comment
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You will need some way to split the fluid to the front brakes. Later model stuff has a built-in "tee" in one of the brake lines, and the box uses that block on the frame to do that among other things. otherwise it sounds like you got the idea.
The block on the frame on your car serves as a tee and a metering valve, basically it holds pressure off the front brakes so the drum shoes can get in position. Removing it won't hurt on a 4 wheel disc setup. The master cylinder itself has a residual valve in it that keeps a wee bit of pressure on the rear brakes though, so replacing that with a later one to save your rear pads and get a smidge of fuel economy is a good idea. Your prop valve is right on the master cyl. Earlier cars have the prop valve included as part of the frame block.86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley
91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry
1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal
Originally posted by phayzer5
I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousersComment
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you dont have to replace the booster and master cyl if you dont want to......i'm running 86 booster and master cyl on my towny
1986 lincoln towncar signature series. 5.0 HO with thumper performance ported e7 heads, 1.7 roller rockers, warm air intake, 65mm throttle body, 1/2" intake spacer, ported intakes, 3.73 rear with trac lock, 98-02 front brake conversion, 92-97 rear disc conversion, 1" rear swaybar, 1 3/16" front swaybar, 16" wheels and tires, loud ass stereo system, badass cb, best time to date 15.94 at 87 mph. lots of mods in the works 221.8 rwhp 278 rwt
2006 Lincoln Town Car Signature. Stock for now
1989 Ford F-250 4x4 much much more to come, sefi converted so far.
1986 Toyota pickup with LSC wheels and 225/60/16 tires.
2008 Hyundai Elantra future Revcon toad
1987 TriBurner and 1986 Alaska stokers keeping me warm. (and some pesky oil heat)
please be patient, rebuilding an empire!
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What if you were running disc's in the rear, but left the front stock? Would a 92-97 non-abs master cylinder be the best bet?2020 F250 - 7.3 4x4 CCSB STX 3.55's - BAKFlip MX4
2005 Grand Marquis GS - Marauder sway bars, Marauder exhaust, KYB's
2003 Marauder - Trilogy # 8, JLT, kooks, 2.5" exhaust, 4.10's/31 spline, widened rear's, metco's, addco's, ridetech's 415hp/381tq
1987 Colony Park - 03+ frame swap, blown Gen II Coyote, 6R80, ridetechs, stainless works, absolute money pit. WIPComment
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what happens to the brake light wire and how would i wire it up or do i just leave it off.the new 96 master cylinder didnt come any wire hook up while the jy 99 did can this plug be switchedAttached FilesComment
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ok looks like its some sort of magnet contact that just slide right off so that answers one question?Attached FilesComment
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The stock setup has whats called a differential valve. Basically its a slidey thing that moves forward or backward if you blow a brake line. What thats supposed to do is help keep a pedal, and it trips the brake light. Newer setups don't use that, they have a float in the cap on the master cylinder. Connect the wire to the float and you're good.86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley
91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry
1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal
Originally posted by phayzer5
I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousersComment
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so the line with the screw in proportion valve is for the rear brakes and the other line is for the frontComment
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Correct, or as the hillbillies say Co'rec.86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley
91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry
1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal
Originally posted by phayzer5
I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousersComment
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since im replaceing all brake lines what brake fluid should i use dot 3,4,5,5.1Comment
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