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    small brake fluid leak under master cylinder....

    whats going on guys...so as i walked back to my car from the store i saw a couple of drops on the floor of some clear liquic. they seemed to be coming from right under the master cylinder. i checked the bottom of the cylinder and it was completely dry. i followed the brake lines a bit further down and the connection where they all meet is where i saw the drops of brake fluid emit from. question is, will good ole teflon tape fix this...as it seems to be coming from the threads?
    i changed my brakes about 3 weeks ago and forgot to bleed 'em. is this the culprit that caused this? i still have to inspect the lines properly and find out for sure that its coming from the threads and not the lines itself.


    i guess i gotta drive my '78 monte carlo for the time being huh lol....

    #2
    Sounds like the fittings aren't tight.
    2020 F250 - 7.3 4x4 CCSB STX 3.55's - BAKFlip MX4
    2005 Grand Marquis GS - Marauder sway bars, Marauder exhaust, KYB's
    2003 Marauder - Trilogy # 8, JLT, kooks, 2.5" exhaust, 4.10's/31 spline, widened rear's, metco's, addco's, ridetech's 415hp/381tq
    1987 Colony Park - 03+ frame swap, blown Gen II Coyote, 6R80, ridetechs, stainless works, absolute money pit. WIP

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      #3
      Those don't really loosen up on their own... it could be the line right at the fitting, or the electric switches can leak. Either way, you're in for some fun!
      Pete ::::>>> resident LED addict and CFI defector LED bulb replacements
      'LTD HPP' 85 Vic (my rusty baby) '06 Honda Reflex 250cc 'Baileys' 91 Vic (faded cream puff) ClifFord 'ODB' 88 P72 (SOLD) '77 LTDII (RIP)
      sigpic
      85HPP's most noteworthy mods: CFI to SEFI conversion w/HO upperstuff headers & flowmasters P71 airbox Towncar seats LED dash light-show center console w/5 gauge package LED 3rd brake light 3G alternator mini starter washer/coolant bottle upgrade Towncar power trunk pull underhood fuse/relay box 16" HPP wheels - police swaybars w/poly rubbers - budget Alpine driven 10 speaker stereo

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        #4
        Spray it with brake clean, tighten the fittings down a bit, and check againafter a bit of driving.

        85 4 door 351 Civi Crown Victoria - Summer daily driver, sleeper in the making, and wildly inappropriate autocross machine
        160KMs 600cfm holley, shorty headers, 2.5" catted exhaust, 255/295 tires, cop shocks, cop swaybars, underdrive pulley, 2.73L gears.
        waiting for install: 3.27's, Poly bushings, boxed rear arms, 2500 stall converter, ported e7's, etc

        06 Mazda 3 hatch 2.3L 5AT (winter beater that cost more than my summer car)

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          #5
          If its leaking, I'd be willing to wager the line is about ready to crack off. Clean it off with brakleen, then in your driveway, stand on the pedal. If it suddenly drops to the floor, replace the brake line that blew out.
          86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
          5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

          91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

          1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

          Originally posted by phayzer5
          I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

          Everything looks like voodoo if you don't understand how it works

          Comment


            #6
            For some reason I thought you replaced the lines and they were still leaking....
            It's probably just rotted pout. Pound the pedal a few times and you'll know for sure.
            2020 F250 - 7.3 4x4 CCSB STX 3.55's - BAKFlip MX4
            2005 Grand Marquis GS - Marauder sway bars, Marauder exhaust, KYB's
            2003 Marauder - Trilogy # 8, JLT, kooks, 2.5" exhaust, 4.10's/31 spline, widened rear's, metco's, addco's, ridetech's 415hp/381tq
            1987 Colony Park - 03+ frame swap, blown Gen II Coyote, 6R80, ridetechs, stainless works, absolute money pit. WIP

            Comment


              #7
              well gentlemen, i found out the leak is coming from the brake proportioning valve. any ideas as to where to buy one at a good price. I'm looking to get a new one if possible, but I'm running out of options and just may end up going to the junkyard and getting one that looks somewhat decent. is there such a thing as a rebuild kit for these? the side that's facing the firewall is the only side that seems to leak. there was a rubber "stopper" per say, and it came right off. when the brake is pressed a little "nipple" emerges out and i can see the brake fluid begin to gush out. any suggestions and/or ideas....?

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                #8
                When mine was shot i purchased a new one from ford. I got a deal on mine because my dad has some friends at ford but expect to pay a lot for a new one. I'd recommend buying the new one over the junkyard one just because that one may eventually crap out. A new one will give you piece of mind for 20+ more years.



                ~David~

                My 1987 Crown Victoria Coupe: The Brown Blob
                My 2004 Mercedes Benz E320:The Benz

                Originally posted by ootdega
                My life is a long series of "nevermind" and "I guess not."

                Originally posted by DerekTheGreat
                But, that's just coming from me, this site's biggest pessimist. Best of luck

                Originally posted by gadget73
                my car starts and it has AC. Yours doesn't start and it has no AC. Seems obvious to me.




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                  #9
                  Whats was the model number for it gt? I called em up and they asked which one was it as one of em is discontinued and the other one is going for just about $200....if you have the part # that would help a ton....

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                    #10
                    Part number is in the picture...EAOZ-2B257-A

                    Valve A 655504
                    ~David~

                    My 1987 Crown Victoria Coupe: The Brown Blob
                    My 2004 Mercedes Benz E320:The Benz

                    Originally posted by ootdega
                    My life is a long series of "nevermind" and "I guess not."

                    Originally posted by DerekTheGreat
                    But, that's just coming from me, this site's biggest pessimist. Best of luck

                    Originally posted by gadget73
                    my car starts and it has AC. Yours doesn't start and it has no AC. Seems obvious to me.




                    Comment


                      #11
                      There are actually 3. One for Vic/Grand Marq sedans, one for wagons, and one for Towncars. The fittings and valving is slightly different on each.
                      Last edited by gadget73; 04-24-2010, 07:34 PM.
                      86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
                      5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

                      91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

                      1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

                      Originally posted by phayzer5
                      I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

                      Everything looks like voodoo if you don't understand how it works

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Well gentlemen, proportioning brake valve is now installed but the brake light will not turn off now...can this be solved by disconnnecting the battery and pressing the brake pedal all the way down...? I read somewhere on here that thats how u reset the cpu on these cars....now will this help or what will? Any new sensors i gotta replace after replacing this part...? Lemme know...
                        Gt, did your brake light stay on after u replaced yours?

                        Comment


                          #13
                          No. Sorry I have no i have how to help.
                          ~David~

                          My 1987 Crown Victoria Coupe: The Brown Blob
                          My 2004 Mercedes Benz E320:The Benz

                          Originally posted by ootdega
                          My life is a long series of "nevermind" and "I guess not."

                          Originally posted by DerekTheGreat
                          But, that's just coming from me, this site's biggest pessimist. Best of luck

                          Originally posted by gadget73
                          my car starts and it has AC. Yours doesn't start and it has no AC. Seems obvious to me.




                          Comment


                            #14
                            Originally posted by ltdcrwnvic View Post
                            Well gentlemen, proportioning brake valve is now installed but the brake light will not turn off now...can this be solved by disconnnecting the battery and pressing the brake pedal all the way down...? I read somewhere on here that thats how u reset the cpu on these cars....now will this help or what will? Any new sensors i gotta replace after replacing this part...? Lemme know...
                            Gt, did your brake light stay on after u replaced yours?
                            There is no CPU. The only link to the brake system from any computer is that the computer knows if the brake lights are on.

                            Two things will make the brake light come on:
                            1. The switch for the parking brake is activated (they can get stuck and turn the light on even when the pedal is disengaged)
                            2. There is a low pressure condition in one of the brake circuits. Make sure the brake fluid is full, and re-bleed the brakes.

                            The brake light comes on if the prop valve has shut on one side, meaning that one of your braking circuits isn't working. Does the braking feel any different than it used to?
                            Originally posted by gadget73
                            There is nothing more permanent than a temporary fix.
                            91 Mercury CP, Lopo 302, AOD, 3.08LSD. 3g upgrade, Moog wagon coils up front, cc819s in the back. KYB GR-2 police shocks. Energy suspension control arm bushings. Smog deleted.
                            93 F-150 XLT, 302, ZF 5-spd from 1-ton, 4wd.
                            Daily--07 Civic Coupe. Bone stock with 25k miles
                            Wife--14 Subaru Outback. 6-speed.
                            95 Subaru Legacy Wagon--red--STOLEN 1/6/13

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                              #15
                              What he said. Unplug the wire on the prop valve. If the light goes out, then the internal valve has slammed shut in one direction or the other. Usually its caused by air in the lines. If the light does not go out, its the parking brake or parking brake switch.
                              86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
                              5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

                              91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

                              1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

                              Originally posted by phayzer5
                              I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

                              Everything looks like voodoo if you don't understand how it works

                              Comment

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