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    brake tune up

    Don't know what the term is when it comes to brakes, as I am just learning about brake systems, but what gets replaced (anything that wears out) or tightened or..?

    I would like to learn how to replace and maintain all of this stuff myself, but I'm a total noob and don't know what replacement parts I will have to buy or if I will need any tools besides sockets.


    So what in the brake system wears out? My brakes don't grab quite as well as they used to.
    sigpic


    - 1990 Ford LTD Crown Victoria P72 - the street boat - 5.0 liter EFI - Ported HO intake/TB, 90 TC shroud/overflow, Aero airbox/zip tube, Cobra camshaft, 19lb injectors, dual exhaust w/ Magnaflows, Cat/Smog & AC delete, 3G alternator, MOOG chassis parts & KYB cop shocks, 215/70r/15s on 95-97 Merc rims

    - 2007 Ford Escape XLT - soccer mom lifted station wagon - 3.0 Duratec, auto, rear converter delete w/ Magnaflow dual exhaust

    - 2008 Mercury Grand Marquis Ultimate Edition - Daily driver - 4.6 2 valve Mod motor, 4R75E, 2.73s. Bone stock

    #2
    What I know: Rotors and pads are the parts that wear out the most. Especially the front ones! Brake lines are also prone to failure because they are routed along the frame rail, where rust forms...I'm not sure about what tools are required. Some of the other mangs will chime in
    '79 Continental Town Car
    '90 Crown Victoria LTD
    '94 Crown Victoria

    Comment


      #3
      do you mean adjust? only applies to drum brakes

      Comment


        #4
        I see listings on ra for police/HD brakes....can I use those or did cop cars have bigger brakes or..?
        sigpic


        - 1990 Ford LTD Crown Victoria P72 - the street boat - 5.0 liter EFI - Ported HO intake/TB, 90 TC shroud/overflow, Aero airbox/zip tube, Cobra camshaft, 19lb injectors, dual exhaust w/ Magnaflows, Cat/Smog & AC delete, 3G alternator, MOOG chassis parts & KYB cop shocks, 215/70r/15s on 95-97 Merc rims

        - 2007 Ford Escape XLT - soccer mom lifted station wagon - 3.0 Duratec, auto, rear converter delete w/ Magnaflow dual exhaust

        - 2008 Mercury Grand Marquis Ultimate Edition - Daily driver - 4.6 2 valve Mod motor, 4R75E, 2.73s. Bone stock

        Comment


          #5
          Originally posted by jayh View Post
          do you mean adjust? only applies to drum brakes
          I don't know, I just want to refresh my brakes
          sigpic


          - 1990 Ford LTD Crown Victoria P72 - the street boat - 5.0 liter EFI - Ported HO intake/TB, 90 TC shroud/overflow, Aero airbox/zip tube, Cobra camshaft, 19lb injectors, dual exhaust w/ Magnaflows, Cat/Smog & AC delete, 3G alternator, MOOG chassis parts & KYB cop shocks, 215/70r/15s on 95-97 Merc rims

          - 2007 Ford Escape XLT - soccer mom lifted station wagon - 3.0 Duratec, auto, rear converter delete w/ Magnaflow dual exhaust

          - 2008 Mercury Grand Marquis Ultimate Edition - Daily driver - 4.6 2 valve Mod motor, 4R75E, 2.73s. Bone stock

          Comment


            #6
            dont ignore the rear brakes either. Most of the time the rears are overlooked, and when they don't work, the car doesn't stop for shit.

            front end checkup:
            pad thickness, ought to be thicker than a quarter
            rotors: should be smooth and flat, no grooves, heavy rust bands, or blue spots
            rubber hoses: if you bend them around your finger, they should not show cracks.
            caliper slide pins: must be de-rusted, smooth, and very lightly greased with brake caliper grease
            calipers: pistons should easily compress with a C clamp or prybar. Boots must not be torn, melted, or otherwise damaged.


            rear brakes:
            drums: inner surface must be smooth and rust-free, no grooves or gouges
            shoes: more than the thickness of a quarter, no pieces broken off, and the friction material needs to be attached to the metal, not peeling off
            wheel cylinders: pulling back the edge of the rubber boot on the end should not show fluid. Both sides of the cylinder need to push in smoothly.
            hardware: no broken springs, no big gouges in the backing plate to hang up the shoes
            adjustment: turn the star wheel until the wheel starts to drag somewhat when turning it by hand.


            Something many don't know, the rear brakes will self adjust if you drive the car at idle speed in reverse and repeatedly apply the pedal. They only get so tight, and only if the stuff in the back is working right but if you never hit your brakes in reverse, they never self-adjust.

            The police boxes got steel piston calipers instead of phenolic pistons. Same rotors, caliper piston size, and pad size, but the pads are a different number because the clip on the back is different. They're nothing special. They did get an 11" rear drum instead of the 10" rear drum. Tow package cars got those same drums.
            86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
            5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

            91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

            1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

            Originally posted by phayzer5
            I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

            Comment


              #7
              So coasting backwards and braking adjusts the rear brakes? Neat.
              sigpic


              - 1990 Ford LTD Crown Victoria P72 - the street boat - 5.0 liter EFI - Ported HO intake/TB, 90 TC shroud/overflow, Aero airbox/zip tube, Cobra camshaft, 19lb injectors, dual exhaust w/ Magnaflows, Cat/Smog & AC delete, 3G alternator, MOOG chassis parts & KYB cop shocks, 215/70r/15s on 95-97 Merc rims

              - 2007 Ford Escape XLT - soccer mom lifted station wagon - 3.0 Duratec, auto, rear converter delete w/ Magnaflow dual exhaust

              - 2008 Mercury Grand Marquis Ultimate Edition - Daily driver - 4.6 2 valve Mod motor, 4R75E, 2.73s. Bone stock

              Comment


                #8
                Also about bleeding the brakes... I'll just google that one, but I was curious - How often should it be done?
                sigpic


                - 1990 Ford LTD Crown Victoria P72 - the street boat - 5.0 liter EFI - Ported HO intake/TB, 90 TC shroud/overflow, Aero airbox/zip tube, Cobra camshaft, 19lb injectors, dual exhaust w/ Magnaflows, Cat/Smog & AC delete, 3G alternator, MOOG chassis parts & KYB cop shocks, 215/70r/15s on 95-97 Merc rims

                - 2007 Ford Escape XLT - soccer mom lifted station wagon - 3.0 Duratec, auto, rear converter delete w/ Magnaflow dual exhaust

                - 2008 Mercury Grand Marquis Ultimate Edition - Daily driver - 4.6 2 valve Mod motor, 4R75E, 2.73s. Bone stock

                Comment


                  #9
                  Originally posted by 1990LTD View Post
                  Also about bleeding the brakes... I'll just google that one, but I was curious - How often should it be done?
                  After you have replaced brake lines...calipers..wheel cylinders(in drum brakes)...MAster cylinder work... ect

                  Technically all the brake fluid should be replaced every set schedule of miles.... i dont know what for recommends...however it could be very 30-75K miles.....

                  brake fluid is hygroscopic...meaning it absorbs water easily, which decreases the brake fluids performance..changes its boiling point and compressibility.

                  I suppose you are going to ask how to do this haha... I will assume you saw how to bleed the brakes so i wont go into that... however

                  Using a large turkey baster or equivalent remove the majority of brake fluid from the master cylinder (Not ALL of it... but maybe 80-90% of it...then fill the reservoirs with fresh DOT 3 brake fluid. Bleed the brakes...starting with the farthest from the master cylinder and making your way around and fresh fluid comes out.



                  Awesome little write up Thain!
                  Make sure the reservoir does not completely empty while doing all of this...
                  Last edited by Brown_Muscle; 04-08-2010, 10:46 PM.
                  -Phil

                  sigpic

                  +1982 Ford LTD-S Police Car. Built 351w, Trickflow 11R 190 Heads, Holley Sniper EFI, RPM Intake+ Hyperspark dizzy, WR-AOD, Full exhaust headers to tails. 3.27 Trac-Lok Rear. Aluminum Police Driveshaft. Speedway Springs+Bilstein Shocks, Intermediate Brakes, HPP Steering Box.

                  +2003 Acura CL Type S 6-speed

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Yeah as I understand it, air will get in if the level gets too low in the reservoir whil bleeding the lines. I've never had to do this before so I don't know exactly where the bleeder valve is but I imagine it will be obvious when examined
                    sigpic


                    - 1990 Ford LTD Crown Victoria P72 - the street boat - 5.0 liter EFI - Ported HO intake/TB, 90 TC shroud/overflow, Aero airbox/zip tube, Cobra camshaft, 19lb injectors, dual exhaust w/ Magnaflows, Cat/Smog & AC delete, 3G alternator, MOOG chassis parts & KYB cop shocks, 215/70r/15s on 95-97 Merc rims

                    - 2007 Ford Escape XLT - soccer mom lifted station wagon - 3.0 Duratec, auto, rear converter delete w/ Magnaflow dual exhaust

                    - 2008 Mercury Grand Marquis Ultimate Edition - Daily driver - 4.6 2 valve Mod motor, 4R75E, 2.73s. Bone stock

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Don't mean to hijack, but maybe it'll help 1990LTD too:

                      If I have an easier time getting police calipers, will it swap over without any issues? I know everything the same size, but I also know there are differences with the control arms...

                      Similar question with 11-inch drums.

                      Can I just unbolt the backing plate and everything on the wheel side of it, or do I need new brake hosing too or maybe something else I'm not thinking of?


                      Also, can the reversing adjustment work if the rear brakes are too tight? mine, especially the left, locks up wayyy too easily and is grabby.

                      85 4 door 351 Civi Crown Victoria - Summer daily driver, sleeper in the making, and wildly inappropriate autocross machine
                      160KMs 600cfm holley, shorty headers, 2.5" catted exhaust, 255/295 tires, cop shocks, cop swaybars, underdrive pulley, 2.73L gears.
                      waiting for install: 3.27's, Poly bushings, boxed rear arms, 2500 stall converter, ported e7's, etc

                      06 Mazda 3 hatch 2.3L 5AT (winter beater that cost more than my summer car)

                      Comment


                        #12
                        If something doesn't match the criteria gadget posted, is it safe to say it is a candidate for replacement?
                        sigpic


                        - 1990 Ford LTD Crown Victoria P72 - the street boat - 5.0 liter EFI - Ported HO intake/TB, 90 TC shroud/overflow, Aero airbox/zip tube, Cobra camshaft, 19lb injectors, dual exhaust w/ Magnaflows, Cat/Smog & AC delete, 3G alternator, MOOG chassis parts & KYB cop shocks, 215/70r/15s on 95-97 Merc rims

                        - 2007 Ford Escape XLT - soccer mom lifted station wagon - 3.0 Duratec, auto, rear converter delete w/ Magnaflow dual exhaust

                        - 2008 Mercury Grand Marquis Ultimate Edition - Daily driver - 4.6 2 valve Mod motor, 4R75E, 2.73s. Bone stock

                        Comment


                          #13
                          yes, though you can get rotors and drums milled at machine shops and certain auto shops and parts places if the finished product will meet a certain specification (a maximum inner diameter for drums, minimum thickness for rotors). This will sometimes fix the grooving and warping that causes pulsation, vibration, and short pad/shoe life.

                          85 4 door 351 Civi Crown Victoria - Summer daily driver, sleeper in the making, and wildly inappropriate autocross machine
                          160KMs 600cfm holley, shorty headers, 2.5" catted exhaust, 255/295 tires, cop shocks, cop swaybars, underdrive pulley, 2.73L gears.
                          waiting for install: 3.27's, Poly bushings, boxed rear arms, 2500 stall converter, ported e7's, etc

                          06 Mazda 3 hatch 2.3L 5AT (winter beater that cost more than my summer car)

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Thanks everyone. I will be performing my first brake inspection tomorrow
                            sigpic


                            - 1990 Ford LTD Crown Victoria P72 - the street boat - 5.0 liter EFI - Ported HO intake/TB, 90 TC shroud/overflow, Aero airbox/zip tube, Cobra camshaft, 19lb injectors, dual exhaust w/ Magnaflows, Cat/Smog & AC delete, 3G alternator, MOOG chassis parts & KYB cop shocks, 215/70r/15s on 95-97 Merc rims

                            - 2007 Ford Escape XLT - soccer mom lifted station wagon - 3.0 Duratec, auto, rear converter delete w/ Magnaflow dual exhaust

                            - 2008 Mercury Grand Marquis Ultimate Edition - Daily driver - 4.6 2 valve Mod motor, 4R75E, 2.73s. Bone stock

                            Comment


                              #15
                              your star wheel adjusters might be frozen. you can fre them up with heat and 2 pair vice grips or replace them

                              inspect your wheel cylinders and make sure they are not damp or show any signs of leaking

                              depending on the sources available, sometimes you can replace rotors for what it costs to have them machined

                              I think the wagons came with 11" drums, as well as some trucks and vans. you need to replace the backing plates, shoes, wheel cylinders, hardware, but you should be able to get the old lines to work

                              I wouldnt worry about bleeding the brakes unless you open the system

                              yes you can "de-adjust" the rear brakes if they are locking up

                              Comment

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