Lower control arm holes.......

[andymac0035]

Well, today I took a shot at putting my rear sway bar on and failed.
My car only has one, of the two sets of holes needed in the lower control arms to mount the bar. I knew this going in, but thought I could drill the other holes out.....not so easy.

The problem is real simple, I can't seem to get the car high enough in the air to do the work. Ramps get me almost enough room, but of course don't they don't let the control arms hang down. I did get it up on jackstands, but couldn't get the height I needed.

So I guess I'm going to end up paying for it to be put on a lift.
Damn, I really wanted to do this myself.

[85crownHPP]

yeah it would be a pain... not only is it limited access, but the holes have to be in just the right spot in relation to the existing hole, and to each other on either side of each control arm. the spacer used is very rigid and wont allow the bolt to go in at any kind of angle.
I thought about doing this to the '91, but just decided I'd hop in the 85 if I wanted to feel more secure around curves

[gadget73]

can't you drill from the center outward instead of through the wheel well? Should be enough room there. If not, get yourself a 90 degree drill and go to town. They also make attachments for regular drills that give you a 90 degree for tight spaces. Another option is to pull the lower control arms off, and do the job on a drill press.

[andymac0035]

The 90 degree drill would have helped, and I was trying to drill from the center (of the car) out.
If I had a nice concrete (or asphalt) driveway I probably could have gotten the car higher, but as it was it was pretty tight under there. It's a bit un-nerving lifting a car up on an uneven dirt driveway (while your under it). All I have are those small 2-ton jacks. I backed the car up on ramps and used a jack with a block of wood to lift it by the differential. I hate lifting a car this way (by the diff) but I needed the frame in front of the control arms for the jackstands. Once the jackstands were in place I pulled the ramps out and lowered the axle. Then I put the swaybar in place using the holes that were there.

I wouldn't mind trying again, but I need to get it higher up to have any room to manuver the drill.

[andymac0035]

For whatever reason......I was hesitant to try lifting by the rear frame rail.
This is probably stupid on my part since that is where the bumperjack lifts it from.
I do have a LOT of lumber at my diposal to make higher bases for my jack(s) if this is a do-able idea.

[gadget73]

i always jack mine up by the diff, and place the stands at the frame rail. Bad juju jacking things up on uneven dirt tho. At a minimum, you need plywood under the jack and jack stands to keep them from sinking.

[andymac0035]

I confess to relying on the frozen ground with the jack stands. (I put 2 extras under the rear frame).
But, the jack was on a 2x8 and "shimmed" to sit level. The overall spot I put the car on is pretty "level" but the ground has high and low spots to it.

I'm still not 100% used to having a car with it's lower ground clearence. I've had mostly pick-ups since about 1992.

[Pirate]

I'd find a pair of lower control arms with the correct holes, and snag those, replacing the old units. And while you have the new ones out, you can toss some new bushings at them, before you put the new ones in....

[87gtVIC]

Maybe try jacking the car up again by the differential but this time put the jackstands under the frame under the rear doors right before the rear tire. If you jack the car high enough to begin with, then when you release the jacks with the stands were I suggested the rear will hang down at a comfortable level.

On another note everything just sucks more when you are working in very cold weather, generally everything takes longer and at least I get frustrated much quicker.

[PICKUP6772]

Here's what I did.I jacked up the rear of the car, and put jackstands under the frame, letting the axle hang down. I bolted the bar in place with the two existing holes. Before you install the bar though, you have to tweak the lower lip of the control arm for the bar to fit correctly. After you've bolted the bar in, use a pair of vice grips to hold the bar in place, and then, from the inner side of the arm, use a 1/2 inch bit. Using the second hole in the bar as a pilot guide, drill straight through the control arm. Install the spacer,bolt, and nut. Repeat for the other side, and you're done. It's alot easier, then than it looks on paper (or screen in this case).
MIKE

[85crownHPP]

Un-bolting the rear shocks will let the axle housing drop a little more too.

[andymac0035]

Thanks for all the ideas/tips.

-I'm dead in the water today as it has been raining all day (rain in NH, in late dec, WTF!).

I'd find a pair of lower control arms with the correct holes, and snag those, replacing the old units. And while you have the new ones out, you can toss some new bushings at them, before you put the new ones in....

That thought did cross my mind. Are these control arms hard to unbolt? (the bolts look like they will not come loose easily)

Maybe try jacking the car up again by the differential but this time put the jackstands under the frame under the rear doors right before the rear tire. If you jack the car high enough to begin with, then when you release the jacks with the stands were I suggested the rear will hang down at a comfortable level.

On another note everything just sucks more when you are working in very cold weather, generally everything takes longer and at least I get frustrated much quicker.

That is exactly where I put my jack stands. And yes, definitly I needed the car higher. Easier said than done so far though (by me anayways), and yes it was very flustrating out there.

Un-bolting the rear shocks will let the axle housing drop a little more too.

I did initally lower the axle after getting the stands in place. just not enough room (to manuver) so far. I have however been oiling the lower shock bolts because I was told the same thing by 88grandmarq.

[andymac0035]

Here's what I did.I jacked up the rear of the car, and put jackstands under the frame, letting the axle hang down. I bolted the bar in place with the two existing holes. Before you install the bar though, you have to tweak the lower lip of the control arm for the bar to fit correctly. After you've bolted the bar in, use a pair of vice grips to hold the bar in place, and then, from the inner side of the arm, use a 1/2 inch bit. Using the second hole in the bar as a pilot guide, drill straight through the control arm. Install the spacer,bolt, and nut. Repeat for the other side, and you're done. It's alot easier, then than it looks on paper (or screen in this case).
MIKE

This is pretty close to what I was trying to do. But you explained in better detail than I have been able to do. This is what I will try IF I can get the "altitude" I need.

One thing I do not understand though is the "tweeking" of the control arm's lower lip.
I had the bar in place and saw so issue's. I have read the stickies. I know the HPP arms are different.
Perhaps I'm not having an issue because I'm working with the 1/2" civilian bar?

[PICKUP6772]

This is pretty close to what I was trying to do. But you explained in better detail than I have been able to do. This is what I will try IF I can get the "altitude" I need.

One thing I do not understand though is the "tweeking" of the control arm's lower lip.
I had the bar in place and saw so issue's. I have read the stickies. I know the HPP arms are different.
Perhaps I'm not having an issue because I'm working with the 1/2" civilian bar?

That would be my guess, as I installed the P.I. bar. With the P.I. bar, the lower lip is in the way a little, and if you look at the police models, you'll see the lower arm was tweaked at the factory.
MIKE

[andymac0035]

Here's what I did.I jacked up the rear of the car, and put jackstands under the frame, letting the axle hang down. I bolted the bar in place with the two existing holes. Before you install the bar though, you have to tweak the lower lip of the control arm for the bar to fit correctly. After you've bolted the bar in, use a pair of vice grips to hold the bar in place, and then, from the inner side of the arm, use a 1/2 inch bit. Using the second hole in the bar as a pilot guide, drill straight through the control arm. Install the spacer,bolt, and nut. Repeat for the other side, and you're done. It's alot easier, then than it looks on paper (or screen in this case).
MIKE

Definitly easier said than done......but done it is, just as advised.