Idler arm bushing repair kit

[1987cp]

... anyone ever used one? I was looking at idler arms at Autozone.com and saw that for a whopping 8 bucks they offer just the bushing, versus more like $30-$50 for the whole idler arm. Only problem: I'm not coming up with any info on how to install the repair bushing, so I figured I'd ask if anyone else has done it.

[gadget73]

never tried it, but its probably a pain in the ass, akin to doing control arm bushings.

[1987cp]

Doesn't sound encouraging. I may go ahead and pull one of mine, and see if I can't get it apart with some sockets and a vise.

Will I need a pitman arm puller or somesuch to get the idler off of the centerlink?

[GM_Guy]

You might need a lot more than just a puller. That thing bonds to the center link something fierce. Mine came off in peices after much persuasion from a BFairHammer.

At 30-50 bucks over the life of that part, having to take everything apart anyway, along with the time to r&r, I'd just replace it. Another thing to check, is your idler arm (that bolts to the frame) bolted to the link, or is it swaged (looks like a rivet head) over to keep it in place? If its swaged, you won't be replacing its bushings.

Alex.

[Lincolnmania]

dont waste your time rebuilding an idler arm....been there done that.......just buy a new one

[87gtVIC]

Ahh you made it home!

[1987cp]

Just went out to harvest the good idler arm off the wagon, but was only partly successful. Which brings me to a more obvious and very n00bish question: What tool is preferred for pulling the idler arm off of the centerlink stud? I fiddled with that one a little, and concluded that it may be easier to remove the whole steering linkage and swap it over as a unit, thus providing me with relatively fresh tie rod parts as well.

Which reminds me: when removing and reinstalling a Pitman arm, is a new nut required?

[gadget73]

bang on the side of the center link where the idler arm stud goes through. It should deform it just enough to pop the stud free. A ball joint splitter will also serve if absolutely nothing else will make it let go.

No new nut required for the pitman arm. New cotter pin is a must tho.

[1987cp]

Cotter pin? I recall seeing just a very large nut securing the pitman arm onto the steering box. The balljoint on the other end would use a cotter pin ....


No luck so far parsing the stud advice. What I saw was a stud that appeared to be permanently part of the centerlink, and the idler arm stuck securely to the stud. :headscratch:

[gadget73]

The end where it attaches to the center link should be a castle nut and a cotter pin if memory serves. Just a bigass nut on the box side.


ok, you're right. idler arm doesent have a stud, the center link does on that end. Been a while since I had one off.

[91waggin]

Check out the Moog idler arm. It's a different, improved style than what came on the cars, and it has grease fittings. My steering is more sure of itself now.

[Pirate]

Just went out to harvest the good idler arm off the wagon, but was only partly successful. Which brings me to a more obvious and very n00bish question: What tool is preferred for pulling the idler arm off of the centerlink stud? I fiddled with that one a little, and concluded that it may be easier to remove the whole steering linkage and swap it over as a unit, thus providing me with relatively fresh tie rod parts as well.

Which reminds me: when removing and reinstalling a Pitman arm, is a new nut required?

Oh, just f---ing great, you're stripping shit off of my wagon.

Check out the Moog idler arm. It's a different, improved style than what came on the cars, and it has grease fittings. My steering is more sure of itself now.

Yeah, that was loads of fun going through several different idler arms before finding one that didn't begin flexing a week or two later....and of course, it was da' Moog unit.

[1987cp]

Oh, just f---ing great, you're stripping shit off of my wagon.

Sorry sir, I was not aware that this wagon was yours. When was it that you made me an offer to buy it? Is there a PM or phone message I missed?

Yeah, that was loads of fun going through several different idler arms before finding one that didn't begin flexing a week or two later....and of course, it was da' Moog unit.

Ah, that would be what TOTCG was talking about when I talked to him on the phone over the weekend. I couldn't quite make sense of it because I'd put this thread temporarily from my mind. The idler arm I "stole" from what Pirate now informs me is his vehicle appears to be of a plain rubber-bushing design, with no grease provisions like that present on the pitman arm. Is there only one box-Vic idler arm offered by Moog, or would it be helpful for one of you gentlemen to post the relevant part number of the magical greasable idler arm you speak of?



BTW, what do you mean by "flexing"? :headscratch: Are you referring to undesirable movement of one or the other of the rubber bushings on the idler arm assembly, or was the metal arm itself bending?

[91waggin]

Moog k8283

http://www.energysuspensionparts.com/proddetail.asp?prod=MOOG-K8283

You can see one of the holes for the zerk fittings on the top in the picture. The other is on the bottom of the unit, opposite the rubber boot.

[Pirate]

Ah, that would be what TOTCG was talking about when I talked to him on the phone over the weekend. I couldn't quite make sense of it because I'd put this thread temporarily from my mind. The idler arm I "stole" from what Pirate now informs me is his vehicle appears to be of a plain rubber-bushing design, with no grease provisions like that present on the pitman arm. Is there only one box-Vic idler arm offered by Moog, or would it be helpful for one of you gentlemen to post the relevant part number of the magical greasable idler arm you speak of?

BTW, what do you mean by "flexing"? :headscratch: Are you referring to undesirable movement of one or the other of the rubber bushings on the idler arm assembly, or was the metal arm itself bending?

The 'flex' I speak of is in the bushing itself at the frame mount end, which allows the other end to move up and down a bit in addition to its regular arc....and as it gets worse, toe-in goes away, and toe-out develops, in addition to generating slack in the wheel.

So far as the Moog piece is concerned, if I can remember, I'll look up the NAPA part number for the high-quality piece, as our upper-end components are supposed to be manufactured by Moog.

Sorry sir, I was not aware that this wagon was yours. When was it that you made me an offer to buy it? Is there a PM or phone message I missed?

This was merely a play upon your repeated attempts to get me to buy it.