They're like Red Ryders, except $5 more and supposedly perform better. Conversely, they're $5 cheaper than Monroe Sensatracs that (in my opinion) perform worse than Red Ryders.
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*sigh*...
Red Ryder is/was Gabriel's budget shock absorber, selling for about $15 and offering OK performance. Looks after a glance on their site like they may have replaced it with a newer version called Guardian - basically the same thing, most likely, down to the characteristic red body. The Ultra is their "premium passenger car" shock with upgraded valving and other junk. I like mine.
Read more about their current product offerings at www.gabriel.com .....Last edited by 1987cp; 10-02-2009, 04:58 PM.2012 Mazda5 Touring | Finally working on the LTD again!
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Originally posted by 1987cp View Post*sigh*...
Red Ryder is/was Gabriel's budget shock absorber, selling for about $15 and offering OK performance. Looks after a glance on their site like they may have replaced it with a newer version called Guardian - basically the same thing, most likely, down to the characteristic red body. The Ultra is their "premium passenger car" shock with upgraded valving and other junk. I like mine.
Read more about their current product offerings at www.gabriel.com .....
sorry for being a dumbass :o
looks like Ill be doing an overhaul this winter...brakes/springs/shocks.
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Originally posted by hav24wheel View PostI just buy cheap ass factory replacments from Oreilly's. Never had a problem. Only reason my car bounces, is it will hit the bump stop, and it bounces from that.
Originally posted by RustyRodder View Postahhh, got ya.
sorry for being a dumbass :o
looks like Ill be doing an overhaul this winter...brakes/springs/shocks.
Can't forget bushings and balljoints! Pricy and annoying, though more necessary than most spring replacements.2012 Mazda5 Touring | Finally working on the LTD again!
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A pain, but could be worse. Need a grinder for the uppers (if they're original) and a 3 or 5 pound hammer for the lowers (or a press). I've got to do lowers on my Police Order Special one of these months .... I'm REALLY not looking forward to that.2012 Mazda5 Touring | Finally working on the LTD again!
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Use a ball joint press, do not hammer the lower ball joints out. You can and likely will ruin the arm doing that. Air chisel also works for the uppers if you have access to one.
Bushings probably ought to be replaced, just due to age. The rubber deteriorates and mushes around. Made a huge difference in how my car drove when I replaced them.86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley
91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry
1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal
Originally posted by phayzer5
I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers
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Funny, when I took my control arms and balljoints to the machine shop to have the new ones pressed in, the store manager told me that if he put them in his hydraulic press they'd be mangled, and he's the one who told me to take them home and go at it with a hammer. I thought he was kind of nuts, but I figured he knew more than I did so I went home and did as he said.
When you say "ball joint press", are you referring to a fixture for a shop press or a handheld screw-driven tool of some sort?2012 Mazda5 Touring | Finally working on the LTD again!
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That would seem to be handier, as I don't own a shop press and don't plan to buy one in the near future. Hmmm.....http://www.autozone.com/autozone/cat...requestid=9925
A little C-clamp-like press would also mean that the job could possibly be done on the car. I do kind of like that idea, not because it's that much trouble to remove the lower control arm, but because you have 3800 pounds of steel to wrench against.2012 Mazda5 Touring | Finally working on the LTD again!
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yep, the big C clamp device with the proper reciever cups is what I had in mind. Yeah a shop press will ruin the arm because it doesn't support it properly. You can do it with one if you have stuff on hand to make a reciever cup and a press tool though. Mostly my fear with beating on the arm is that its just stamped steel, and its entirely possible to bend one if you hit it wrong. And yeah, the ball joint press lets you do it on the car. I've used one to do ball joints on several vehicles, works great if you drive it with a good impact gun.86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley
91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry
1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal
Originally posted by phayzer5
I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers
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