Removing old exhaust system INTACT

[Lincolnmania]

chisel no workie i've tried it.... also tried a real long sawzall blade.....goes ok till the blade gets bound up and bends.......those rear shocks are a bitch, i'm not brave enough to torch em off, cause the fuel lines and the gas tank is right there, and the rubber bushings always catch on fire.....when i first started working on cars for a living, the shop owner and i almost burned down a buick cutting a front upper shock bolt with the torch

[1987cp]

Ack, that sounds scary! I guess I'll maybe see about modifying a cheap wrench just for the purpose, then.

I thought of an air chisel, but I don't see a way of getting the thing in there.

Alternatively, I guess there's always the Mikey Special Floorpan Mod .... :cutit:

[gadget73]

I've always done the wrench and channel lock thing. If you spray some oil on the stud, you may be able to get it loose enough to spin the shock out by hand. Its just a pain in the ass no matter how you slice it though.

As for making holes, *maybe* in a wagon but I don't think its possible in a sedan to access those from inside the trunk. I seem to remember someone trying, and found the trunk hinges were right in the way. Besides, thats butchery and we should strive to be better than that.

[1987cp]

:lol: Yeah, I no longer really condone butchery, espeically since this car is liable to still be of interest to someone else once I'm through with it.

Time to apply yet more PB Blaster ....

[hav24wheel]

Try some Pentrol 90. it comes in a yellow can, and is made by Shaffers(sp?). Its spendy stuff, but works great. I get it at Napa. Just don't use it on drill bits, hole saws and such. It lubes it up so good, they won't cut anymore.

[1987cp]

As in, this stuff? http://www.schaefferoil.com/specialty/190_Penetro.html

Sounds good enough. Never heard of it, I don't think. Closest retailer they list online is 50 miles from my house: http://www.fastsite.com/cgi-bin/vic....de=0&csz=48842 Suppose I could always ask at my local NAPA, though.

Is it that much better than the more usual stuff like Liquid Wrench (got about 3/4 gallon), PB Blaster (partial can), Marvel Mystery Oil (currently out), or of course the ubiquitous WD-40 (got over a half gallon) that works wonders in some situations but does absolutely squat in others?

[hav24wheel]

Yep, that's the stuff. If it didn't work better than the others, I wouldn't be buyin it. I think the last can I got was around $7. I lube my air tools with it. My cheap air drill always had a "dead" spot in it, lubed it with that stuff and it works great now.

But I still keep some WD40 around for drill bits and such.

[Pirate]

In case this hasn't been done yet.....my suggestion for dropping the rear? Disconnect the upper arms....and loosen the front bolts for the lowers. You'll need to disconnect the brake line at some point, should you have to drop down that low....or you might get away with unbolting the hard line from the frame, and allow it to bend down just a bit as you lower the rear.

That should give you enough clearance, yet keep the rearend housing from getting away from you and rolling over backwards....yet if you keep the driveshaft connected, it shouldn't be a problem.

[1987cp]

That's just about the other alternative that has been contemplated. Nervous about how much hassle it will be to loosen the control arm bolts (Torx head, liable to be well rusted in place).

[1987cp]

I just posted some sound clips of my exhaust. That exhaust is now coming off the car as soon as I can manage it. If you're in the market for a lightly-used upgraded catback exhaust, or know someone who is, check out my clips! http://www.grandmarq.net/vb/showpost...36&postcount=4

Old pics from when it was first completed: http://www.grandmarq.net/vb/showpost...38&postcount=5