Just got new brake stuff, whats missing?

[deepsleep]

Well, first off, that's actually the engine oil pan you're looking at, not the transmission pan. What's coming out definitely looks red, which would indicate ATF, not brake fluid. Brake fluid is more like the color of motor oil, but a bit lighter.

Also, as was mentioned before, if a brake line was broken, the pedal would go all the way to the floor and you'd have no brakes whatsoever. How does the pedal feel?

It does go all the way down. Works a little bit if i smash the thing

[Nathan in MI]

Hm, well, if the pedal is going all the way to the floor, then you definitely have a brake line leak as well, or at the very least air in the system, but that would usually be caused by a leak.

How's the fluid level in the reservoir look?

[deepsleep]

I cant see though the brake container to see if there is fluid. its too dirty. Its atleast lower than the half way part where it looks like the container splits up. But I cant get the top off so I cant check the level.

[Nathan in MI]

Okay. Do you have the plastic reservoir, or the metal one? My guess is that the reason the fluid isn't squirting out faster is that it's pretty low already, so there's not a whole lot to leak out. You'll need to figure out how to get the reservoir open so that you can fill it back up, and then you should be able to make it leak fast enough to figure out where the leak is.

[deepsleep]

Okay. Do you have the plastic reservoir, or the metal one? My guess is that the reason the fluid isn't squirting out faster is that it's pretty low already, so there's not a whole lot to leak out. You'll need to figure out how to get the reservoir open so that you can fill it back up, and then you should be able to make it leak fast enough to figure out where the leak is.

I did see the fluid coming directly out of the area I took a picture of so I guess its possible I have more than one leak. Oh and its the plastic cover. I did check with the car turned off though if that makes a diff. Well I'm off to the store. Thanks so much for your help guys, I'll let you guys updated.

Thanks!

[1987cp]

Yep, no good trying to estimate the brake fluid level without taking the lid off and, well, looking.

[Lincolnmania]

the rear brake line runs up the ds of the frame
the rf brake line runs across the engine crossmember

[deepsleep]

Ah crap. No lug nut key. Didnt come with the car and there are no stores open on Sunday that can rent out the lock breaker thing.

Well I thought my housemate would have one but I also don't have a dremel to cut the brake line so I'm going to try with a jigsaw! We'll see how it goes. I'll be doing the brakes tomorrow. Thanks again guys, I'll keep ya updated.

[deepsleep]

Well the jigsaw doesnt fit. I cant get anything done on this thing! Well, I'm going to clean out the rear window tracks and check out the window motor gears.

[1987cp]

Dremel? Jigsaw? I nearly always just use a tubing cutter ....

... though, depending on where the failure is, it's usually easier to buy enough preflared line to do the entire stretch and connect a shorter piece with a union if you need a little bit more. Also eliminates the possibility of repairing one section of hardline only to have the next section rust out a few months or a year later. Besides, compression fittings won't pass safety inspections in some states (PA for sure; not sure about HI, I just know you do have inspections there), plus doing your own double-flaring on steel = teh suck, unless you have a really nice double-flaring kit.

[deepsleep]

Dremel? Jigsaw? I nearly always just use a tubing cutter ....

... though, depending on where the failure is, it's usually easier to buy enough preflared line to do the entire stretch and connect a shorter piece with a union if you need a little bit more. Also eliminates the possibility of repairing one section of hardline only to have the next section rust out a few months or a year later. Besides, compression fittings won't pass safety inspections in some states (PA for sure; not sure about HI, I just know you do have inspections there), plus doing your own double-flaring on steel = teh suck, unless you have a really nice double-flaring kit.

Sorry, I can't really follow what we are talking about. I bought a inverted 3/16 inverted brass compression union intending to cut the brake line with rust/leak and just connect the two ends. Is this the wrong thing to do? The rest of the steel brake line is in great shape with no rust. I check the front brake hoses also and they were in great condition. The people who had the car before me apparently did EVERYTHING and took the car in every 6 months for inspection and to fix other stuff. In terms of inspection, its so laid back here I don't think they would even notice it. But if its a safety hazard, I'll have to change it out. Would just putting on a union be safe?

[1987cp]

Ah, well, you can definitely get away a compression union as far as functionality - I've done it before, as have others who would probably decline to be mentioned for fear of a verbal browbeating by Lincolnmania and gadget73. Not highly recommended as a long-term solution, but it can get your brakes at least functional.

Still wondering, though, how you expect to get nice cuts in your new or old tubing without a tubing cutter. I'm all but certain you can rent one for free at AutoZone if you don't have one.

I'm not quite clear about what you weren't understanding; if it helps, here's an article that talks about how to make inverted flares for your brake or fuel line: http://www.carcraft.com/howto/50919/index.html

[deepsleep]

Well today when I went to the parts store to get a few more things she told me that its not good to to have no fluid in the reservoir. So when I got home, I went to put some fluid in and I noticed that the fluid was a different color. It did say dot approved so I put in a little anyway. Its clear yellowish. Does color matter?

After taking a close look at the whole brake line that needs replacement, it looks rather easy. The store needs the old line to get me a new one. Is it okay to just unscrew the brake line?

[1987cp]

Clear yellowish is the normal color of brake fluid. The old stuff is probably brown, that's just from age an duse.

Re the brake line: You do kind of need to remove the old one in order to replace it ..... which line is this? 3/16" inverted flare line is what you'll normally use to replace hard lines.

[deepsleep]

I just can't get a freakin break man. I cant get the stupid lug nut keys off the stupid wheels. I got the key remover socket thing. How am I supposed to get the things off? I tried using regular size hammer and pounding it on but it barely makes a scratch. Now what, I need to buy a sledge hammer? WTF! I'm about to just return all my shit and just have a shop do it. This stupid mess is costing me ALLOT of time and money.