Just got new brake stuff, whats missing?

[deepsleep]

Okay well I'm replacing a bunch of the brake stuff. Let me know what I'm missing. I've got...

1. front calipers
2. front pads
3. front rotors

4. rear drums
5. rear shoes
6. spring set

8. grease
9. basic tools
10. jack and 4 stands

I have one other problem though, the brake fluid is shooting out from the underside when I push the brake. I think its from when I smashed the brake down. Is there a area prone to disconnect from strong pressure?

[Nathan in MI]

Assuming they didn't come with any, it would be a good idea to get new front wheel bearings, and definitely wheel bearing seals. But perhaps your rotors came with those - I wouldn't know as I've never bought a new set. Hehehe

As for the brake fluid gusher, it sounds like you probably broke through a rusty spot in the brake line. You'll have to cut out the bad section and put in some fresh line with a couple of unions and a double flaring tool. Ideally, it may be a good idea to replace all the brake lines if they're all rusty, but you'll have to decide whether or not you're willing to go to all that trouble right now. It would also be a good idea to replace the rubber lines on the car as they tend to be rather used up after 20 years. There are three of them on the car - one at each front wheel, and one at the middle of the rear axle.

[85crownHPP]

You will want new cotter pins to lock the hub nut.
Also since you are doing rear brakes and will have to fool with lines and bleed anyway, go ahead and do rear wheels cylinders too if they aren't new. They are cheap enough, you will want line wrenches for them if you dont have them.
Ditto on the rubber hoses too if they are old & rotted.

[deepsleep]

Assuming they didn't come with any, it would be a good idea to get new front wheel bearings, and definitely wheel bearing seals. But perhaps your rotors came with those - I wouldn't know as I've never bought a new set. Hehehe

As for the brake fluid gusher, it sounds like you probably broke through a rusty spot in the brake line. You'll have to cut out the bad section and put in some fresh line with a couple of unions and a double flaring tool. Ideally, it may be a good idea to replace all the brake lines if they're all rusty, but you'll have to decide whether or not you're willing to go to all that trouble right now. It would also be a good idea to replace the rubber lines on the car as they tend to be rather used up after 20 years. There are three of them on the car - one at each front wheel, and one at the middle of the rear axle.

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Here is a pic of the front brakes, do they have new bearings? I'm gonna get under and see if I can find the leak. Hopefully it wont be a hard fix. Is it difficult to change all the lines? Or does it just take time?

You will want new cotter pins to lock the hub nut.
Also since you are doing rear brakes and will have to fool with lines and bleed anyway, go ahead and do rear wheels cylinders too if they aren't new. They are cheap enough, you will want line wrenches for them if you dont have them.
Ditto on the rubber hoses too if they are old & rotted.

Few q's.

1. Do I need a c clamp?
2. Do I need the spring removal tool?
3. Do my front rotors have the bearings?
4. Does the car have to be perfectly level?

I'm gonna get under the car and check the lines now and get back to you guys. Thanks for your help.

[Enigma]

1.Here is a pic of the front brakes, do they have new bearings?
2. Do I need a c clamp?
3. Do I need the spring removal tool?
4. Does the car have to be perfectly level?

1. The bearing races are installed. You will still need a new inner and outer bearing set and the grease seal for each wheel. You will also need a big pot of wheel bearing grease. read up on how to load bearings with grease. or you can get one of these and make it a snap.
2. Yes, they come in handy if the caliper pistons are not pushed in far enough. they also make a cheap tool for it.
3. ? suspension spring removal tool ?
4. not perfectly level, but as level as you can get it. you don't want the thing to tip over on the jack stands. I've worked on angled driveways before. Do one axle at a time, and block the wheels that are still on the ground.

[deepsleep]

1. The bearing races are installed. You will still need a new inner and outer bearing set and the grease seal for each wheel. You will also need a big pot of wheel bearing grease. read up on how to load bearings with grease. or you can get one of these and make it a snap.
2. Yes, they come in handy if the caliper pistons are not pushed in far enough. they also make a cheap tool for it.
3. ? suspension spring removal tool ?
4. not perfectly level, but as level as you can get it. you don't want the thing to tip over on the jack stands. I've worked on angled driveways before. Do one axle at a time, and block the wheels that are still on the ground.

Okay well few more things on the list. Man this really starts to add up. What pisses me off is that I'm looking to do the brake upgrade within a month!

The spring remover tool is for the rear drums. They use it in the Haynes manual.

Okay so went under the car and although I'm not totally sure, I think the leak is coming from a area where the brake line is hitting up against the trans oil pan. It seems to have rubbed on the pan enough to make its own grove. Is this thing supposed be even touch the pan? Are the lines under the car supposed to be rubber? The one I looked at was steel. It doesnt look too hard to replace.

[Nathan in MI]

The brake line shouldn't be touching the pan at all. It runs along the frame rail. Are you sure it's actually the brake line that's leaking? What color is the fluid coming out?

The brake lines that run under the car are steel, and should be 3/16" diameter.

[Lincolnmania]

front wheel bearings, front grease seals, wheel bearing grease, front brake hoses

[Enigma]

The spring remover tool is for the rear drums. They use it in the Haynes manual.

Okay so went under the car and although I'm not totally sure, I think the leak is coming from a area where the brake line is hitting up against the trans oil pan. It seems to have rubbed on the pan enough to make its own grove. Is this thing supposed be even touch the pan? Are the lines under the car supposed to be rubber? The one I looked at was steel. It doesnt look too hard to replace.

Oh, this thing. You can get by without it, but it does make things easier, and it's cheap enough.

there should be no brake line by the trans oil pan. If your brake line was squirting fluid out, you would have no brakes whatsoever.
There is a metal line that goes to the radiator for trans fluid cooling. Is the fluid red.?

[deepsleep]

Please guys just wait and help me out right now, my friend is waiting for me to go to the parts store! I'm going to run outside and take a pic of it. be back in 3 min

and its reddish, and i had somebody check and when the brake is pushed it comes out. slowly though. so theres still fluid in it

ill take a pic and come right back

[deepsleep]

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[1987cp]

If t's by the transmission pan, it's Almost certainly trans lines.

The pan you have pictured is the engine oil pan, and the #1 crossmember (that goes underneath the middle of the oil pan) does indeed have the right-front brake line strapped to it. Has your car been pulling to the left?

BTW, brake fluid should not be red. If brake lines are leaking, replace them. You can buy 3/16" inverted-flare line in convenient lengths at your local AutoZone and connect them end-to-end with little unions that they should also sell.

[70torino429]

If it's red thats transmission fluid, not a doubt in my mind...

[Nathan in MI]

Well, first off, that's actually the engine oil pan you're looking at, not the transmission pan. What's coming out definitely looks red, which would indicate ATF, not brake fluid. Brake fluid is more like the color of motor oil, but a bit lighter.

Also, as was mentioned before, if a brake line was broken, the pedal would go all the way to the floor and you'd have no brakes whatsoever. How does the pedal feel?

[deepsleep]

If t's by the transmission pan, it's Almost certainly trans lines.

The pan you have pictured is the engine oil pan, and the #1 crossmember (that goes underneath the middle of the oil pan) does indeed have the right-front brake line strapped to it. Has your car been pulling to the left?

BTW, brake fluid should not be red. If brake lines are leaking, replace them. You can buy 3/16" inverted-flare line in convenient lengths at your local AutoZone and connect them end-to-end with little unions that they should also sell.

The car pulls to the right sometimes but I think thats because of sticky calipers. Okay so I'll need 3/16 inverted flare.