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I found me a rear sway bar!

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    I found me a rear sway bar!

    i saw a 91 marquis GS in the junk yard (totally stock civillian car to) and i looked under the back for the hell of it and there was a 3/4" (about) sway bar! still looks brandy new to. so I read all the posts i could find but if anyone has a few pics or tips for the install it would be appreciated. So yeah, even a plain old civilian sedan can have a bar haha.
    Finally have an on the books porting/custom fab business!
    HO bottom end,GT40Ps,cut/welded/ported upper+lower GT40 intakes,Comp XE258 cam,MS3X megasquirt computer,8 LS2 coils,2 dry systems + a 3rd wet,3 core rad w fans..1100hp Lentech WR AOD,custom 4" aluminum/moly Dshaft,custom rear/back half chassis adjustable 4link,wilwood 4 piston,moser 9" axles,locker, M/T 30x12's,4 staged fuel pumps,100lbs sound insulation,power/remote everything,2000W sound.4480lbs. 4.5s 0-60,12.8 1/4


    #2
    sweet. Well install it the way it was installed on the car you removed i guess.

    here maybe this helps?

    Suspension, Chassis, Drivetrain, Brakes. Everything to do with handling. Also includes transmission discussions.
    ~David~

    My 1987 Crown Victoria Coupe: The Brown Blob
    My 2004 Mercedes Benz E320:The Benz

    Originally posted by ootdega
    My life is a long series of "nevermind" and "I guess not."

    Originally posted by DerekTheGreat
    But, that's just coming from me, this site's biggest pessimist. Best of luck

    Originally posted by gadget73
    my car starts and it has AC. Yours doesn't start and it has no AC. Seems obvious to me.




    Comment


      #3
      The bar is on the car, you can look at it and how it is installed and then put it on yours the same way.

      As for the "plain old sedan having a rear bar", yes we know. It's rather small but better than nothing.

      Suspension, Chassis, Drivetrain, Brakes. Everything to do with handling. Also includes transmission discussions.


      Suspension, Chassis, Drivetrain, Brakes. Everything to do with handling. Also includes transmission discussions.




      Builder/Owner of Badass Panther Wagons

      Busy maintaining a fleet of Fords

      Comment


        #4
        The bar you found is a 3/4" indeed, there is a larger 1" one that works better but that's on police cars, and you will not find it on a civilian car. When you do pull it make sure you grab the bushings (actually spacers) that go on the inside of the lower control arms, as without them you'll crush the control arms unless you fab something yourself.

        Comment


          #5
          Originally posted by smoke'n'rattle View Post
          The bar you found is a 3/4" indeed, there is a larger 1" one that works better but that's on police cars, and you will not find it on a civilian car. When you do pull it make sure you grab the bushings (actually spacers) that go on the inside of the lower control arms, as without them you'll crush the control arms unless you fab something yourself.
          you beat me to it.

          Also make a note of where the original holes are. Usually the control arms only have one hole in them, you'll have to drill the second one.

          The good news is, it doesn't take all that long to put on. I spent more time looking for hardware (mine was missing a bolt, and a spacer or two) than I did putting it on the car.
          Owner of the only known 5 speed box wagon with a lift kit.
          AKA, Herkimer the Hillbilly SUV.



          Axle codes
          Open/Lock/Ratio #
          -----------------------
          G / H / 2.26
          B / C / 2.47
          8 / M / 2.73
          7 / - / 3.07
          Y / Z / 3.08
          4 / D / 3.42
          F / R / 3.45
          5 / E / 3.27
          6 / W / 3.73
          2 / K / 3.55
          A / - / 3.63
          J / - / 3.85

          Comment


            #6
            i got the bolts and there still in good shape but didn't get ahold of the spacers so i fabbed some up. just took off the 20 years of grime and painted it up with graphite colour wheel paint. yeah i just have 1 hole so i will have to drill another one...
            and i think i will put it on ramps vs jack stands so i can get accurate street stance bar position while drilling/installing.

            well i'll let yas know how it turns out
            Finally have an on the books porting/custom fab business!
            HO bottom end,GT40Ps,cut/welded/ported upper+lower GT40 intakes,Comp XE258 cam,MS3X megasquirt computer,8 LS2 coils,2 dry systems + a 3rd wet,3 core rad w fans..1100hp Lentech WR AOD,custom 4" aluminum/moly Dshaft,custom rear/back half chassis adjustable 4link,wilwood 4 piston,moser 9" axles,locker, M/T 30x12's,4 staged fuel pumps,100lbs sound insulation,power/remote everything,2000W sound.4480lbs. 4.5s 0-60,12.8 1/4

            Comment


              #7
              I don't like ramps, I really don't trust them much - just use jack stands, but put them under the axle (and not under the frame), this will keep the weight of the car on the rear springs like it is at its regular ride height and give you the correct suspension geometry for the swaybar installation. This is actually how most trucks get jacked up, by the axle - there's no factory jack out there that can reach a 1-ton frame and lift it high enough off the ground to where a tire gets in the air, so the factory manual tells you to put the jack under the axle next to the tire and lift that. In case of Panthers if you have a good floor jack you can put it under the differential and lift the whole axle at once, then just add a jack stand at each end - this will also allow you to pull the wheels, which should give you some more space to work in.

              As for the holes in the lower control arms, for some odd reason the Executive-trim Town Cars always have all the holes already there, whereas Cartier and Signature Series only have one hole drilled like you do, unless they are a tow package in which case the bar is already there to begin with... heck if I can understand the logic behind that...

              What spacers di you make? If you're lucky you could actually find some steel spacers at a hardware store, but I've found out that regular hex nuts of the same or larger size work great for spacers, some will obviously need the threads drilled out but say a 3/8" bolt slides through a 1/2" nut just fine.

              Comment


                #8
                i ended up finding threaded pipe sections at the hardware store and with a washer at each end it all fit perfectly. the install went great and it does help a fair bit. in the last month i went from totally stock car to KYB GasAJust shocks, wagon cargo springs, 275's BF goodrich's, and rear sway bar... and man is there ever a huge difference. the rear end is planted like nobodys business haha... now i need posi haha.
                Finally have an on the books porting/custom fab business!
                HO bottom end,GT40Ps,cut/welded/ported upper+lower GT40 intakes,Comp XE258 cam,MS3X megasquirt computer,8 LS2 coils,2 dry systems + a 3rd wet,3 core rad w fans..1100hp Lentech WR AOD,custom 4" aluminum/moly Dshaft,custom rear/back half chassis adjustable 4link,wilwood 4 piston,moser 9" axles,locker, M/T 30x12's,4 staged fuel pumps,100lbs sound insulation,power/remote everything,2000W sound.4480lbs. 4.5s 0-60,12.8 1/4

                Comment


                  #9
                  pics please!
                  ~David~

                  My 1987 Crown Victoria Coupe: The Brown Blob
                  My 2004 Mercedes Benz E320:The Benz

                  Originally posted by ootdega
                  My life is a long series of "nevermind" and "I guess not."

                  Originally posted by DerekTheGreat
                  But, that's just coming from me, this site's biggest pessimist. Best of luck

                  Originally posted by gadget73
                  my car starts and it has AC. Yours doesn't start and it has no AC. Seems obvious to me.




                  Comment


                    #10
                    haha for sure... tomorrow bud!
                    Finally have an on the books porting/custom fab business!
                    HO bottom end,GT40Ps,cut/welded/ported upper+lower GT40 intakes,Comp XE258 cam,MS3X megasquirt computer,8 LS2 coils,2 dry systems + a 3rd wet,3 core rad w fans..1100hp Lentech WR AOD,custom 4" aluminum/moly Dshaft,custom rear/back half chassis adjustable 4link,wilwood 4 piston,moser 9" axles,locker, M/T 30x12's,4 staged fuel pumps,100lbs sound insulation,power/remote everything,2000W sound.4480lbs. 4.5s 0-60,12.8 1/4

                    Comment


                      #11
                      my 86 signature has all 4 holes for the rear bar, and it's not a tow package car

                      1986 lincoln towncar signature series. 5.0 HO with thumper performance ported e7 heads, 1.7 roller rockers, warm air intake, 65mm throttle body, 1/2" intake spacer, ported intakes, 3.73 rear with trac lock, 98-02 front brake conversion, 92-97 rear disc conversion, 1" rear swaybar, 1 3/16" front swaybar, 16" wheels and tires, loud ass stereo system, badass cb, best time to date 15.94 at 87 mph. lots of mods in the works 221.8 rwhp 278 rwt
                      2006 Lincoln Town Car Signature. Stock for now
                      1989 Ford F-250 4x4 much much more to come, sefi converted so far.
                      1986 Toyota pickup with LSC wheels and 225/60/16 tires.
                      2008 Hyundai Elantra future Revcon toad
                      1987 TriBurner and 1986 Alaska stokers keeping me warm. (and some pesky oil heat)

                      please be patient, rebuilding an empire!

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Scott, I guess it's a hit or miss then, but most of the SS and Cartiers I've seen in the yard have only had one pair of holes...

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