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    Remanufactured Steering Gear Adjustement

    Hi everone.

    I have got a question about steering gear. I have ordered remanufactured steering gear from ACDELCO and the question is, if the remanufactured steering gear has to be adjusted (with sector shaft adjusting screw). I have read here in other topics that usually there is no need to adjust it (and furtermore that it can damage the steering gear), but I believe it refered to the factory steering gear, not the changed, remanufactured one. And if it shall be adjusted, should I use the same procedure as described in shop manual, or shall i just rotated the screw half turn, try it if is ok and so on? Thank you very much and sorry for such amateur question

    I have to say that I have expected bigger change in the steering (pitman arm is OK)
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    #2
    Well what exactly is the steering doing? If you are dead set on adjusting it, I'd say no more than 1/8th of a turn at a time as they are very sensitive. If you over tighten it, it will drive worse also.
    1989 Grand Marquis LS
    flat black, 650 double pumper, random cam, hei, stealth intake, Police front springs, Wagon rear, Police rear bar, wagon front ,exploder wheels, 205/60-15 fronts 275/60-15 rears, 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" offroad x pipe, Eclipse front bucket seats, Custom floor shifter, 4.10 gears, aluminum driveshaft and daily driven. 16.77@83mph

    Comment


      #3
      a reman steering gear should require no adjustments.......i would send for another one if at all possible

      1986 lincoln towncar signature series. 5.0 HO with thumper performance ported e7 heads, 1.7 roller rockers, warm air intake, 65mm throttle body, 1/2" intake spacer, ported intakes, 3.73 rear with trac lock, 98-02 front brake conversion, 92-97 rear disc conversion, 1" rear swaybar, 1 3/16" front swaybar, 16" wheels and tires, loud ass stereo system, badass cb, best time to date 15.94 at 87 mph. lots of mods in the works 221.8 rwhp 278 rwt
      2006 Lincoln Town Car Signature. Stock for now
      1989 Ford F-250 4x4 much much more to come, sefi converted so far.
      1986 Toyota pickup with LSC wheels and 225/60/16 tires.
      2008 Hyundai Elantra future Revcon toad
      1987 TriBurner and 1986 Alaska stokers keeping me warm. (and some pesky oil heat)

      please be patient, rebuilding an empire!

      Comment


        #4
        Steering is now better and more responsive, however I expected more from the change. But it is true that I have not tried it on higway where the steering has been terrible before the change. The mechanic said that there shall be more parts changed (I believe lower shaft and that small plate between shaft and steering gear - I am not sure about the name of this thing) so maybe that is the problem.

        However I have talked about friend of mine with 90 TC and he said, that his mechanic has adjusted the steering gear after the change, so I was not sure if it shall be done or not. Maybe the steering gear is OK, unfortunately there is not so many such cars for me to be able to easy compare it (I am from Europe).

        And other thing is that the steering wheel is now not straight when wheels are...
        sigpic

        Comment


          #5
          did you replace the idler arm and the pitman arm?
          every box that i service has a worn out idler arm and pitman arm

          1986 lincoln towncar signature series. 5.0 HO with thumper performance ported e7 heads, 1.7 roller rockers, warm air intake, 65mm throttle body, 1/2" intake spacer, ported intakes, 3.73 rear with trac lock, 98-02 front brake conversion, 92-97 rear disc conversion, 1" rear swaybar, 1 3/16" front swaybar, 16" wheels and tires, loud ass stereo system, badass cb, best time to date 15.94 at 87 mph. lots of mods in the works 221.8 rwhp 278 rwt
          2006 Lincoln Town Car Signature. Stock for now
          1989 Ford F-250 4x4 much much more to come, sefi converted so far.
          1986 Toyota pickup with LSC wheels and 225/60/16 tires.
          2008 Hyundai Elantra future Revcon toad
          1987 TriBurner and 1986 Alaska stokers keeping me warm. (and some pesky oil heat)

          please be patient, rebuilding an empire!

          Comment


            #6
            pitman arm has not been replaced, cause it has been lost by FedEx somwhere in US (but it shall be here in few days, so I am planning to replace it separtely as soon as it is delivered), but the old one has been checked and was OK.

            Idler arm has also not been replaced, I did not know it is necessary. Is it? If so, I will order it right now.
            sigpic

            Comment


              #7
              yes the idler arms get really loose on these cars

              1986 lincoln towncar signature series. 5.0 HO with thumper performance ported e7 heads, 1.7 roller rockers, warm air intake, 65mm throttle body, 1/2" intake spacer, ported intakes, 3.73 rear with trac lock, 98-02 front brake conversion, 92-97 rear disc conversion, 1" rear swaybar, 1 3/16" front swaybar, 16" wheels and tires, loud ass stereo system, badass cb, best time to date 15.94 at 87 mph. lots of mods in the works 221.8 rwhp 278 rwt
              2006 Lincoln Town Car Signature. Stock for now
              1989 Ford F-250 4x4 much much more to come, sefi converted so far.
              1986 Toyota pickup with LSC wheels and 225/60/16 tires.
              2008 Hyundai Elantra future Revcon toad
              1987 TriBurner and 1986 Alaska stokers keeping me warm. (and some pesky oil heat)

              please be patient, rebuilding an empire!

              Comment


                #8
                OK, so I will replace the pitman arm and the idler arm, and I will hope it will be ok.. Thanks a lot
                sigpic

                Comment


                  #9
                  The piece between the lower shaft and the box is called a rag joint. They do get mushy sometimes. Its a cloth and rubber sort of material, and if it gets oil soaked the rubber gets soft and distorts instead of holding it's shape. Usually these cars don't get too bad, but if it shows signs of play, it should be replaced.

                  And I'll agree on the idler arm, when they wear out the steering can get very sloppy. Are your tie rod ends and ball joints OK? Thats another possible source of looseness in the steering. Have them checked if they weren't already.
                  86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
                  5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

                  91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

                  1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

                  Originally posted by phayzer5
                  I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

                  Comment


                    #10
                    tie rod ends and ball joints have been replaced recently. I tried to find those parts (rag joint and lower shaft) and it looks that it is not as easy.

                    I found only this on summit:


                    is it enough just this disc? It looked that it has also some metal parts (maybe they can be used from the old one?)

                    But no lower shaft. Dont you know by chance some e-shop where can i buy it?
                    sigpic

                    Comment


                      #11
                      a complete rag joint probably doesn't exist. The rebuild kit is probably your best bet. I've used those before on my truck, and on my car. Verify the size on your car first, I don't remember which Dorman kit is the one you need. It should come with all the parts required to rebuild the joint.

                      The lower shaft isn't a wear item, its just a piece of metal. Its much easier to replace the rag joint if you remove it, but it should not require replacement. If you do need one, its probably going to have to come from another car, I doubt anyone carries replacements. There is a bolt under the brake booster area to get the shaft out.
                      86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
                      5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

                      91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

                      1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

                      Originally posted by phayzer5
                      I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Anyone ever delete the rag joint, and make it solid? I did that on another vehicle, and it improved the steering feel and precision dramatically. I won't do it again until my welding abilities improve, however.

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Originally posted by gadget73 View Post
                          a complete rag joint probably doesn't exist. The rebuild kit is probably your best bet. I've used those before on my truck, and on my car. Verify the size on your car first, I don't remember which Dorman kit is the one you need. It should come with all the parts required to rebuild the joint.

                          The lower shaft isn't a wear item, its just a piece of metal. Its much easier to replace the rag joint if you remove it, but it should not require replacement. If you do need one, its probably going to have to come from another car, I doubt anyone carries replacements. There is a bolt under the brake booster area to get the shaft out.

                          Thanks for info. I will order it. I am not exactly sure why mechanic said the lower shaft should be replaced - he was talking something about that it is rusted (but i believe only on surface) and that there is little play in it - but I have to say, that this was mechanic who repairs mostly Chrylers (vision, LHS, caravan and such, not the old good ones), so maybe he exactly did not know what is he talking about - that is little problem here - if you want something to be done on old american car and if you want it to be done properly, you should do it yourself, unfortunately my skills in this are are not sufficient
                          sigpic

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Originally posted by torquelover View Post
                            Anyone ever delete the rag joint, and make it solid? I did that on another vehicle, and it improved the steering feel and precision dramatically. I won't do it again until my welding abilities improve, however.
                            MrLTD did that on his, for that reason. I'd actually like to go with a universal joint like some of the Jeeps have, but I doubt one exists that would handily mate my 86 shaft to a 2000 steering box.
                            86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
                            5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

                            91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

                            1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

                            Originally posted by phayzer5
                            I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

                            Comment

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