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Upper control arm/ball joint bolts and settings

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    Upper control arm/ball joint bolts and settings

    Ok, My BBS and front suspension modification/restoration is almost completed. I have approx 80% of all the parts I need. Here is the thing. When I put this all together, I assume my front alignment is going to be messed up pretty bad. FYI: I will not be changing any Steering parts (ie. inner/outer tie rods and such.) Here is my problem: On the old control arms the adjustments for the camber and caster were made at the upper control arm body mounting bolts via elongated holes. However, on the newer control arms, there are two adjustment nuts on the upper ball joints for further adjustment. Here are my questions: Do the cars with the new arms which adjust at the ball joint not have those elongated bolt holes at the body? Do I just bolt the arms in at the center of the body mount hole elongations and just let all the adjustments be made at the ball joint. Will the alignment shop know that there are 4 area of adjustment and not just two? Should I place all the adjustments at 50% just so I could drive it to the alignment shop? Any further recommendations? See pic.
    Attached Files
    Vehicle: 1965 Pontiac Catalina (fastback 2+2)
    Chasis: 1982 Ford LTD Country Squire
    Drivetrain: 302 V8 carb, AOD, 8.8 with 3.08 gears.
    Big Brake swap and front suspension completed.
    sigpic

    #2
    Obviously the new cars do not have the chassis side adjustment.

    Set the arms for max caster on the frame adjustment (pull them rearward) and set the camber to 0 with the ball joints.

    Generally the alignment shop will not do anything but check the toe. You need to harass the hell out of them and make sure they know what you did to the car and what needs to be done. Make sure they can do this before making the appt. Most shops are woefully inept at doing their jobs. A race or performance shop would be the best bet for this. A tire shop will not do it right.
    Builder/Owner of Badass Panther Wagons

    Busy maintaining a fleet of Fords

    Comment


      #3
      Ok, on the side that bolt to the frame. Pull them rearward? they only slide in and out. towards the engine or away from the engine. Where should they be set to since im gona be making the adjustments at the ball joint? As far as the adjustments on the ball joint goes, there is a little dial arrow on the nut but nothing on the ball joint or arm. By zero, I take it you mean center?
      Vehicle: 1965 Pontiac Catalina (fastback 2+2)
      Chasis: 1982 Ford LTD Country Squire
      Drivetrain: 302 V8 carb, AOD, 8.8 with 3.08 gears.
      Big Brake swap and front suspension completed.
      sigpic

      Comment


        #4
        If I push the rear chassis side bolt in to the engine and pull the front chassis bolt away from the engine it will increase the caster all the way. Is that what you mean. Then it can be fine tumed via the ball joint right??? I likethe sound of that. That also leaves the camber to be adjusted at the ball joint also. Can anyone else advise?
        Vehicle: 1965 Pontiac Catalina (fastback 2+2)
        Chasis: 1982 Ford LTD Country Squire
        Drivetrain: 302 V8 carb, AOD, 8.8 with 3.08 gears.
        Big Brake swap and front suspension completed.
        sigpic

        Comment


          #5
          Originally posted by 82LTDQS View Post
          If I push the rear chassis side bolt in to the engine and pull the front chassis bolt away from the engine it will increase the caster all the way. Is that what you mean. Then it can be fine tumed via the ball joint right??? I likethe sound of that. That also leaves the camber to be adjusted at the ball joint also. Can anyone else advise?
          yes, that's right. If the caster /camber cant be brought into spec with the balljoint, then they can adjust the frame points. I also suggest going for a near stock or just stock alignment-with the caster maxed though.





          I cannot stress the part about the alignment shop though, Scott and I have gone through so many shops trying to find one that actually has a clue. I've almost been killed by the one shop and the bastards wouldn't refund my money.


          As for the 0 the camber- make the wheels vertical-straight up and down. You can rough the toe with a measuring tape, make it the same on the front and back of the tire.
          Builder/Owner of Badass Panther Wagons

          Busy maintaining a fleet of Fords

          Comment


            #6
            Really?? Go to the dealership then??? I know its more money but they made sure every aspect of my cars alignment were dead nuts on.
            Chris - A 20th Century Man \m/ ^.^ \m/

            Comment


              #7
              Originally posted by p71towny View Post
              Really?? Go to the dealership then??? I know its more money but they made sure every aspect of my cars alignment were dead nuts on.
              That was the best place I found, becasue the alignment guy was a friend, and a panther enthusiast that I'd known for years. Too bad the rack got trashed adn he got fired ..... I really need an alignment....
              Builder/Owner of Badass Panther Wagons

              Busy maintaining a fleet of Fords

              Comment


                #8
                Sounds nice. I would like for the shop to do it vi the ball joint only. Thanks for the info bro.
                Vehicle: 1965 Pontiac Catalina (fastback 2+2)
                Chasis: 1982 Ford LTD Country Squire
                Drivetrain: 302 V8 carb, AOD, 8.8 with 3.08 gears.
                Big Brake swap and front suspension completed.
                sigpic

                Comment


                  #9
                  The best way would be to adjust the camber with the sloted holes in the frame keeping the shaft as parallel as possible to the centerline of the chassis.
                  Use the ball joint adjustment to dial in the castor
                  Scars are tatoos of the fearless

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Thats what I thought, but I didnt know what the non-adjustable holes on the newer cars were set at so it could be adjusted at the ball joint. With this BBS, it complicates things by combining new and old technology. Now I have two places to adjust. Whereas, it was all dont at the body mouting holes on the old cars and at the ball joint with the new cars. At first, I was just going to put everything at zero and take it to the shop, but I dont trust them to understand what I did.
                    Vehicle: 1965 Pontiac Catalina (fastback 2+2)
                    Chasis: 1982 Ford LTD Country Squire
                    Drivetrain: 302 V8 carb, AOD, 8.8 with 3.08 gears.
                    Big Brake swap and front suspension completed.
                    sigpic

                    Comment


                      #11
                      I spent a lot of time asking around at mechcanic shops without racks, friends, used car lots, talked to guys with circle track cars. Found out were they got there work done. Found that there is a place were the alignment guy realy knows what he is doing. It could be a ford dealer or a belle tire. Had one place that was great. They sold a lot of race tires rims did a lot of hot rods, race cars. he quit when the owners son took over the place. After that it wasnt the place to go anymore. Began a new search.
                      Scars are tatoos of the fearless

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Originally posted by 82LTDQS View Post
                        Thats what I thought, but I didnt know what the non-adjustable holes on the newer cars were set at so it could be adjusted at the ball joint. With this BBS, it complicates things by combining new and old technology. Now I have two places to adjust. Whereas, it was all dont at the body mouting holes on the old cars and at the ball joint with the new cars. At first, I was just going to put everything at zero and take it to the shop, but I dont trust them to understand what I did.
                        Seperate adjustments for caster and camber is a better setup for the most part.
                        Scars are tatoos of the fearless

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Thanks for the info Turbo
                          Vehicle: 1965 Pontiac Catalina (fastback 2+2)
                          Chasis: 1982 Ford LTD Country Squire
                          Drivetrain: 302 V8 carb, AOD, 8.8 with 3.08 gears.
                          Big Brake swap and front suspension completed.
                          sigpic

                          Comment


                            #14
                            The 92-94 models which have the same combination of adjustments are supposed to have the bar on the frame set to the center of the adjustment slots, and the actual alignment done with the cams at the ball joint. Thats pretty much where mine are set to, though I won't swear its excactly in the middle.
                            86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
                            5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

                            91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

                            1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

                            Originally posted by phayzer5
                            I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Seems logical. Thanks gadget
                              Vehicle: 1965 Pontiac Catalina (fastback 2+2)
                              Chasis: 1982 Ford LTD Country Squire
                              Drivetrain: 302 V8 carb, AOD, 8.8 with 3.08 gears.
                              Big Brake swap and front suspension completed.
                              sigpic

                              Comment

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