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    lower control arm bolt...

    anybody know where i can get a lower control arm bolt for a 1987 GMQ?

    the lower front control arm bolt on driver side on my car is bent pushing the contol arm out making the tire lean in at the top. i plan on getting new bushings for it but need to find a bolt to replace the bent one. everything else is fine under there and no play in ball joints or tie rods.
    Addicted to 86-87 Panthers

    #2
    wow, how do you bend a control arm bolt? must of been a real hard impact. for stuff like that i go to the wreckers. if the bolt is bent, i would imagine it would be a bitch to remove since there aint much tollerance

    1981 Mercury Marquis Brougham 2-Door 302/ 5-speed -special blend (GMGT)
    1987 Lincoln Mark VII 5-speed (Errand runner)
    1989 Mercury Grand Marquis (Base Runner)
    2007 Lincoln Town Car Signature Limited (Hustlyn)
    2011 Ford Crown Victoria Police Interceptor (Down with O.P.P)

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      #3
      you go to the hardware store with the old one mang

      1986 lincoln towncar signature series. 5.0 HO with thumper performance ported e7 heads, 1.7 roller rockers, warm air intake, 65mm throttle body, 1/2" intake spacer, ported intakes, 3.73 rear with trac lock, 98-02 front brake conversion, 92-97 rear disc conversion, 1" rear swaybar, 1 3/16" front swaybar, 16" wheels and tires, loud ass stereo system, badass cb, best time to date 15.94 at 87 mph. lots of mods in the works 221.8 rwhp 278 rwt
      2006 Lincoln Town Car Signature. Stock for now
      1989 Ford F-250 4x4 much much more to come, sefi converted so far.
      1986 Toyota pickup with LSC wheels and 225/60/16 tires.
      2008 Hyundai Elantra future Revcon toad
      1987 TriBurner and 1986 Alaska stokers keeping me warm. (and some pesky oil heat)

      please be patient, rebuilding an empire!

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        #4
        i am thinking i am gonna have to cut the old one out ... i am surprised the rest of front end isnt bent or broke.. here is other thing that broke when bolt got bent...
        Attached Files
        Addicted to 86-87 Panthers

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          #5
          You probably can still get them from ford. I'll bet its the same one used up to 2002
          Builder/Owner of Badass Panther Wagons

          Busy maintaining a fleet of Fords

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            #6
            I just recently went through the same thing. I needed some new bolts for my BBS about two months ago. The OE one that ford makes is a grade 10 bolt. Ford says that we can use a grade 8 bolt (the gold color ones) from any local hardware store. I went to three stores and finaly found them, but they just didnt fit right. They didnt have all the little bends like the one from ford, SO......................I just went to the junk yard and got 4 of them. Problem solved.
            Vehicle: 1965 Pontiac Catalina (fastback 2+2)
            Chasis: 1982 Ford LTD Country Squire
            Drivetrain: 302 V8 carb, AOD, 8.8 with 3.08 gears.
            Big Brake swap and front suspension completed.
            sigpic

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              #7
              All you need is a grade 8 9/16 x 4" LG bolt. It might be 4 1/2 LG. Use a nyloc nut. If you can find it use some good stainless steel.
              Scars are tatoos of the fearless

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                #8
                Not sure what you mean about little bends, my control arm bolts were nothing special, just a big bolt round about 9/16, but it could have been metric of similar size.
                86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
                5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

                91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

                1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

                Originally posted by phayzer5
                I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

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                  #9
                  Originally posted by 82LTDQS View Post
                  I just recently went through the same thing. I needed some new bolts for my BBS about two months ago. The OE one that ford makes is a grade 10 bolt. Ford says that we can use a grade 8 bolt (the gold color ones) from any local hardware store. I went to three stores and finaly found them, but they just didnt fit right. They didnt have all the little bends like the one from ford, SO......................I just went to the junk yard and got 4 of them. Problem solved.
                  thats because the bolts are metric. metric bolts dont come in Grade 8 (or 5 or 3 for that matter)

                  Metric bolts are classified as 8.8, 9.8, 10.9, 12.9.

                  10.9 is equivelent to the SAE Grade 8. 12.9 is usually found in socket ehad cap screws, they are stronger than grade 8
                  http://secondhandracing.com/Home.aspx
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                  R.I.P. Jason P Harrill 6-12-06

                  http://www.grandmarq.net/vb/showthread.php?t=5634

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                    #10
                    The Ford bolts do have a reduced shank. When all is said and done the only part of the bolt that is tight to the bushing sleeve is a portion of the threads and the upset just under the bolt head.
                    I perfer to have the bushing supported by the bolt the complete distance of the bushing. The factory reduced portion might be a help removing the bolt once rusted into place. I just grease the bejebies out of them. The factory bolts are metric but 9/16 fit. Sometimes fit better as some of the frame holes are wallowed ot a bit. Not all hardware stores carry 9/16 bolts let alone hardened ones NAPA has them. I perfer hex head to alen head in harsh enviroments. Allen head bolts should be backed up with washers under the head as they have a smaller contat area under the head.
                    Scars are tatoos of the fearless

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                      #11
                      as soon as it decides to warm up again, i will be tackling the bolt. it got too cold recently and dont feel like braving the cold to break my knuckles open messing with it right now. i need to bring in a hose and thaw one out also at some point to flush out my radiator, but that is another story of the guy who claims he could work on cars... i hate people that screw up things worse then me.
                      Addicted to 86-87 Panthers

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                        #12
                        The bushig might be dammaged too. A heads up if they are factory bushings, torq the bolts with the car sitting on its tires.
                        Scars are tatoos of the fearless

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                          #13
                          i planned on having the front on ramps and use a jack to hold control arm in place. that way i can set it back down on ramps to tighten it all up to have the room needed under the car.
                          Addicted to 86-87 Panthers

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                            #14
                            Yup

                            Originally posted by turbo2256b View Post
                            The Ford bolts do have a reduced shank. When all is said and done the only part of the bolt that is tight to the bushing sleeve is a portion of the threads and the upset just under the bolt head.
                            I perfer to have the bushing supported by the bolt the complete distance of the bushing. The factory reduced portion might be a help removing the bolt once rusted into place. I just grease the bejebies out of them. The factory bolts are metric but 9/16 fit. Sometimes fit better as some of the frame holes are wallowed ot a bit. Not all hardware stores carry 9/16 bolts let alone hardened ones NAPA has them. I perfer hex head to alen head in harsh enviroments. Allen head bolts should be backed up with washers under the head as they have a smaller contat area under the head.
                            I agree. Thats what I experienced.
                            Vehicle: 1965 Pontiac Catalina (fastback 2+2)
                            Chasis: 1982 Ford LTD Country Squire
                            Drivetrain: 302 V8 carb, AOD, 8.8 with 3.08 gears.
                            Big Brake swap and front suspension completed.
                            sigpic

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