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    #16
    If you find a cop car get both ends, you will have a matched set that way. They work a lot better. You can get the red poly bushings at Auto Zone or places like that.
    89 CV LX 225/60 x 16 tires, CC819 rear springs, Front & rear sway bar, trans & PS cooler from 90 cop car. KYB shocks, F-150 on rear. Dual Exhaust w/ H pipe. Dark brown door panels, carpet, steering wheel, trim parts from a 87 Mer GM. Power front buckets from 96 Jeep Cherokee. LED'S front & rear. 3G Alt from a 97 Taurus wagon 3.0. Electric fan. Rear axle from a 97 PI 3.27 with disk brakes. Headlight relays.

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      #17
      Originally posted by Glen View Post
      If you find a cop car get both ends, you will have a matched set that way. They work a lot better. You can get the red poly bushings at Auto Zone or places like that.
      Nice..I will be on the hunt this weekend

      4thPanther..03 MGM LS
      previous panthers: 87 MGM, 85 CV 2 DOOR, 89 MGM.

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        #18
        Originally posted by 86VickyLX View Post
        Oh and if you find any 140 speedometers from like an '87 Vic or lower, please let me know.

        no luck, but still have some more JY to visit next weekend

        ___________

        Question: will the rear sway bar from an 'aero' CV fit my car?

        4thPanther..03 MGM LS
        previous panthers: 87 MGM, 85 CV 2 DOOR, 89 MGM.

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          #19
          What is a good tool to bend the lip on the traction bars so that the police sway bar will fit?

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            #20
            They are not traction bars. They are control arms.

            vice grips, adjustable wrenches, hammers....
            Builder/Owner of Badass Panther Wagons

            Busy maintaining a fleet of Fords

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              #21
              Originally posted by 86GmLsCoupe View Post
              If you do find the smaller rear bar, it's not totally worthless. I put one on my car and it is much better than nothing at all plus it took all of 5 minutes to put on. The smaller one seems to work well with the stock front bar. In the future I may put the cop arms and bar on if I get the big front one to go with it.
              That'd be neat to combine with my G-Max aftermarket rear bar. It bolts to the underside of the control arms, so I imagine it should coexist happily alongside any factory-design bar ..... just a little extra "oomph", for that ultimate rear roll stiffness

              Hm ... wonder where I'd find a civi rear bar for dirt cheap so I can test that out ..... this is NOT the season to go banging my head on local 'yards .....
              2012 Mazda5 Touring | Finally working on the LTD again!

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                #22
                You should be able to get one fairly easily since a lot of people don't want to bother with the smaller bar. I got mine from someone on here. If you do try that combo you may want to try finding say the cop or wagon bar for up front to balance out the handling.
                sigpic
                1986 Grand Marquis LS 2 Door
                Ext: Medium Shadow Blue Metallic, Int: Midnight Blue, 3.08 open, 235/70/15 Goodyear Aquatread III, Rebuilt AOD w/ Transgo Shift Kit, 3G upgrade from 95 5.0 Mustang, Walker Dual Exhaust w/ H pipe, Viper 5900ST alarm, De-smogged, Rear Civ. Sway Bar, and more.

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                  #23
                  Wagon => wagon bar came stock. Front of the cop car seems stiffer somehow, though .... although, it could easily be the lighter overall weight and 250lb/in-heavier front springs.
                  2012 Mazda5 Touring | Finally working on the LTD again!

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                    #24
                    Yes indeed, actually from my little research it seems the wagon bar is hollow versus the solid cop bar which means increased torsional stiffness. I'm not 100% on that though so perhaps someone with better knowledge on the subject will fill in. From the sound of it, your set to go with the rear setup then.
                    sigpic
                    1986 Grand Marquis LS 2 Door
                    Ext: Medium Shadow Blue Metallic, Int: Midnight Blue, 3.08 open, 235/70/15 Goodyear Aquatread III, Rebuilt AOD w/ Transgo Shift Kit, 3G upgrade from 95 5.0 Mustang, Walker Dual Exhaust w/ H pipe, Viper 5900ST alarm, De-smogged, Rear Civ. Sway Bar, and more.

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                      #25
                      police bar is 1 1/8" solid, wagon is 1 1/8 or 1 3/16 hollow. The solid bar is stiffer, but not by as much as you might think. Most of the torsion comes from the outer diameter of the bar, so you can make one hollow without giving up a whole lot of torsion. It makes it a lot lighter though.

                      I'm actually considering going back to a smaller front bar, maybe a stock 1" or 7/8" solid bar to neutral the car a bit more. Right now it understeers somewhat, meaning I either need a stiffer rear bar (aftermarket, expensive) or a smaller front bar (cheap, stock and available). It would be an interesting experiement if nothing else, and I could switch it back if I don't like the results.
                      86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
                      5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

                      91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

                      1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

                      Originally posted by phayzer5
                      I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

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                        #26
                        I personally think the big rear bar is too soft. On or off it makes no difference in my articulation and that ain't right. Its a big improvement over nothing, but I think there is a lot more to be had from a different design.
                        1989 Grand Marquis LS
                        flat black, 650 double pumper, random cam, hei, stealth intake, Police front springs, Wagon rear, Police rear bar, wagon front ,exploder wheels, 205/60-15 fronts 275/60-15 rears, 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" offroad x pipe, Eclipse front bucket seats, Custom floor shifter, 4.10 gears, aluminum driveshaft and daily driven. 16.77@83mph

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                          #27
                          A hollow front bar could probably be considered more efficient, measured in terms of torsion (axial moment) to bar weight. As Thain said, removing material from the center will lighten the bar considerably, whilst still retaining sufficient torsional charactersitics. The 'resistance to twisting' (lots of people call it lots of different things; I have confused people by calling it the moment) is calculated in terms of the square of the radius of the bar. As one would imagine, material further out from the center of the bar is 'worth' more than material near the center of the bar, in terms of providing an effective sway control.

                          In the real world, get a police bar if you can. The weight isn't that critical when these yachts weigh 4K+ to begin with.
                          **2012 Ford Mustang Boss 302: 5.0/ 6 spd/ 3.73s, 20K Cruiser
                          **2006 MGM,"Ultimate": 4.6/ 2.73/ Dark Tint, Magnaflows, 19s, 115K Daily Driver
                          **2012 Harley Davidson Wide Glide (FXDWG):103/ Cobra Speedsters/ Cosmetics, 9K Poseur HD Rider
                          **1976 Ford F-150 4WD: 360, 4 spd, 3.50s, factory A/C, 4" lift, Bilsteins, US Indy Mags, 35s Truck Duties

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                            #28
                            Yeah, I want a police front and rear set. Smarty pants said it best ^^^
                            Chris - A 20th Century Man \m/ ^.^ \m/

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