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    brake and shimmy problem

    I am noticing the rear left drum and the front left disc sticking after the rebuild. There is a scraping noise only in reverse. I'm wondering if there is some brake fluid proportioning valve that is going bad.

    As for the front end shimmy, it is an occilating rhythmic shudder noticable at speeds above 55mph and gets faster in rhythm with speed of the car.
    1989 Lincoln Town Car - "Anabelle" - Original block, .030 over with SpeedPro pistons, rods fitted with ARP hardware, FRPP +volume oil pump, GT-40 3bar heads, Crane 1.72 rockers, 89' Fox cam, 93' Cobra lower intake, Explorer upper and 65mm TB, 93' Lightning EGR spacer, K&N intake kit from a 4.0L Ranger, 19lb/hr injectors w/ 87 Mark VII ECM, cat/smog deletes, Big Brake conversion, 3.55 K-Code Trac-Lok/Disc brake rear axle, CVPI LCA's w/1" sway bar in rear, wagon front sway bar, BBK 2.5" off-road H-Pipe, Flowmaster super 40s, HPP wheels, 3G alternator w/LMR.com wiring kit, gear reduction starter conversion, Best 1/4 time: 16.0 @ 85mph.

    #2
    If both of the left brakes are acting up, then yes, that would suggest a problem somewhere near the master cylinder or the prop valve.

    As far as the shudder? Get your tires balanced and rotated.
    Originally posted by gadget73
    There is nothing more permanent than a temporary fix.
    91 Mercury CP, Lopo 302, AOD, 3.08LSD. 3g upgrade, Moog wagon coils up front, cc819s in the back. KYB GR-2 police shocks. Energy suspension control arm bushings. Smog deleted.
    93 F-150 XLT, 302, ZF 5-spd from 1-ton, 4wd.
    Daily--07 Civic Coupe. Bone stock with 25k miles
    Wife--14 Subaru Outback. 6-speed.
    95 Subaru Legacy Wagon--red--STOLEN 1/6/13

    Comment


      #3
      The prop valve and master cyl doesn't work that way. Both fronts are on one side, both rear are on the other side. Its not a left/right system.

      are you sure your tires are round? Sounds like you're describing a lumpy or flat spotted tire, a bent rim, or an out of balance condition. Bad U joints or other driveshaft problems could do this too, but you'd feel it more in the floor than in the wheel.
      86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
      5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

      91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

      1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

      Originally posted by phayzer5
      I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

      Comment


        #4
        I'll was hoping it wasn't the tires, but the car did sit all summer whilst I was doing the engine swap. I'll rotate them and see if it helps any. Meineke was the last people to touch my driveshaft, hope they put it back on right.
        1989 Lincoln Town Car - "Anabelle" - Original block, .030 over with SpeedPro pistons, rods fitted with ARP hardware, FRPP +volume oil pump, GT-40 3bar heads, Crane 1.72 rockers, 89' Fox cam, 93' Cobra lower intake, Explorer upper and 65mm TB, 93' Lightning EGR spacer, K&N intake kit from a 4.0L Ranger, 19lb/hr injectors w/ 87 Mark VII ECM, cat/smog deletes, Big Brake conversion, 3.55 K-Code Trac-Lok/Disc brake rear axle, CVPI LCA's w/1" sway bar in rear, wagon front sway bar, BBK 2.5" off-road H-Pipe, Flowmaster super 40s, HPP wheels, 3G alternator w/LMR.com wiring kit, gear reduction starter conversion, Best 1/4 time: 16.0 @ 85mph.

        Comment


          #5
          Cant really put the driveshaft in wrong.
          1989 Grand Marquis LS
          flat black, 650 double pumper, random cam, hei, stealth intake, Police front springs, Wagon rear, Police rear bar, wagon front ,exploder wheels, 205/60-15 fronts 275/60-15 rears, 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" offroad x pipe, Eclipse front bucket seats, Custom floor shifter, 4.10 gears, aluminum driveshaft and daily driven. 16.77@83mph

          Comment


            #6
            true, but you can do stupid things like not tighten the bolts up. SOmeone on another forum had wierd shaking problems, found the bolts were loose.
            86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
            5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

            91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

            1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

            Originally posted by phayzer5
            I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

            Comment


              #7
              You know, if I'd thought about it for half a nanosecond, I would've realized that the master cylinder is front/rear. My bad.

              Rules for the internet IN THIS ORDER
              1. Think
              2. Post
              Originally posted by gadget73
              There is nothing more permanent than a temporary fix.
              91 Mercury CP, Lopo 302, AOD, 3.08LSD. 3g upgrade, Moog wagon coils up front, cc819s in the back. KYB GR-2 police shocks. Energy suspension control arm bushings. Smog deleted.
              93 F-150 XLT, 302, ZF 5-spd from 1-ton, 4wd.
              Daily--07 Civic Coupe. Bone stock with 25k miles
              Wife--14 Subaru Outback. 6-speed.
              95 Subaru Legacy Wagon--red--STOLEN 1/6/13

              Comment


                #8
                Originally posted by Southern_Pride View Post
                Cant really put the driveshaft in wrong.
                I'm not sure about drive shafts in Panthers specifically, but you can put drive shafts in wrong. They can be out of phase, out of balance, or have too much or too little angle.
                1998 Mercury Grand Marquis 131k~ true duals, 2nd cat removed, H-pipe, Xcelerator Turbo mufflers, PI Manifold, 180* Tstat, K&N drop-in.
                1985 VW Vanagon 70k~

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