Rear disc conversion

[89LincolnTWNcar]

Is it as easy as getting the parts off a 1994 lincoln town car and taking everything off but the axle in the back and bolting on the new hubs. Then unscrewing the brake line and plugging it right into the calipers in the back?

[mrltd]

Nope, axles HAVE to come out. That the only way to swap the backing plates.

[89LincolnTWNcar]

Nope, axles HAVE to come out. That the only way to swap the backing plates.

ghey......oh well.

[82LTDQS]

SAME HERE!!!

Hey mang, after I’m done with my BBS and front suspension upgrade, I’m going to attack the whole rear disc conversion project. I’m gona do some digging in the stickies. Maybe we can touch base about what we come up with. Maybe some of the other members on the site can advise as well. I don’t have the slightest idea about what needs to be done or what the proper donor car is. If its anything like the BBS, Its gona take some research. Keep me posted. Thanks

[DuceAnAHalf]

easiest thing to do is take the entire rear end out of a 92-97 panther, bolt it in your chassis and connect the brake lines

[crown vic muscle]

thats what i did duce. WAY eaysier. just find one with a posi and the gear ratio that you want. then rebend some brake lines and you're done. actually, any cv, gm rear should work, mine is off a 97 cvpi

[gadget73]

Pulling the axles is not hard. Swapping the entire axle assembly isn't particularly hard either, and you get a smidge of extra track width. Late model axle shafts are cheaper too.

[P72Ford]

I pulled two axles out of an 8.8 tonight in 15 minutes. Not hard, and shouldn't prevent you from doing the swap.

[82LTDQS]

Cool

easiest thing to do is take the entire rear end out of a 92-97 panther, bolt it in your chassis and connect the brake lines

I was thinking of doing what Duce said. Except I was gona drop it off on the way home to have it rebuilt and have some 3.73's put in it. Does that sound good?? Any Recommendations?

[gadget73]

not a bad idea. have the upper control arm bushings that are in the differential housing changed while its out. Regardless whether you go poly or not, they're a hell of a lot easier to do with the axle on the ground than in the car. Also have a traction lock stuck in there if you're going to do it. Peg-leg 3.73 is just silly.

[82LTDQS]

Ok, so I need to by the 3.73 gear and the traction lock. Do i need to by anything else for the shop top use like the pinion or the carrier??? also, what traction loc do you recommend?

[gadget73]

the carrier gets replaced with the traction lock. regular Ford one is fine, but you're more than welcome to upgrade it to something better if you'd like. I don't know your driving needs, but the true-tracs are very nice. Probably more than most folks need though unless they tend to push the limits a bit more.

The pinion goes in the scrap bin with whatever ring gear is in there. Ring and pinions come as a matched set.

You'll also want a full set of bearings and seals, and possibly you'll need an axle. Sometimes the right side axle will be shot. Often the left one is good, so if you're going on the cheap, grab a left axle out of something else in the yard.

[Pesty351]

On a junk yard car whats the easiest way to see if it has a trac loc?

[gadget73]

check the AX field on the door sticker. GoodSamaritan has the codes in his signature.

[86VickyLX]

check the AX field on the door sticker. GoodSamaritan has the codes in his signature.

If for whatever reason the door sticker isn't there, you're gonna need to get under the car and look for the tag bolted on one of the differential cover bolts. if there is an L present it is a trak lok rear. The numbers would be the gear ratio.
For example, the K code rear the 3.55, on the tag would actually look like this


3 L 55 and then a bunch of other numbers I would assume are production numbers. If there is no L present, it is not a trak lok rear.