smoking from brakes? rearend?

[Nathan in MI]

It'll look wet right around where the axle comes out. Also, if you know what gear oil smells like, you can wipe a little of the stuff on the backing plate onto your finger and take a whiff of it.

[85crownHPP]

wow thats some rusty innards!!! you can buy replacements for all those parts new.

[eightysixwinter]

anyone know a site to get oem or better parts for these cars? its just going to be driven in the winter but i already got a bunch of new urethane bushings and that brake drum is so covered in rust it would probably be cheaper to buy a new one than refinish it.

[eightysixwinter]

would this be a good buy?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/REAR-BRAKE-SHOES-FORD-CROWN-VICTORIA-LINCOLN-TOWN-CAR_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trkparmsZ72Q3a1076Q7c39Q3a1Q7c66Q3a2Q7c65Q3a12QQ_trksidZp3286Q2ec0Q2em14Q2el1318QQhashZitem350084965125QQitemZ350084965125

any links for brake stuff front and rear would be nice.. the fronts rotors are getting pretty bad and the pads almost done too

thanks everyone

[eightysixwinter]

nevermind i think i need 10''

[mrltd]

autozone.com
partsamerica.com
rockauto.com


It's normal for the drums to be rusty.

[1987cp]

What Mike said. Don't bother buying regular replacement parts on eBay unless you have to have something you just can't locate from a retailer. Lots of folks just run the cheaper Wearever/Valucraft from Advance or AutoZone and have good results, though I've also used front pads from a brand called Performance Friction that may be available from your local PartsAmerica location. Drums only need to be replaced if they're out of round and have already been turned to their max diameter; if your concerns are purely cosmetic, try glassbead or a wire wheel.

Napaonline.com is also excellent as a reference if you want to kick around part numbers, though the online prices do not necessarily reflect pricing at stores.

[87_crown_vic]

if you have a drill get a wire wheel for it or use a grinder with a wire wheel... wire wheel the thing to get the rust off and bring it to bare metal... after that spray it down with brake clean or something to clean off any oil/grease... prime it with a couple coats, paint and clear it... i did this to drums before to make them look better thru wheels of jelybean's car. i didnt get pictures of the work in progress, just how it looked finished with wheel back on... the drums still look good even now during winter with all the crap they use to de-ice the roads...

[brokebill]

are you having to top off the fluid in the master cylinder?

if not, and there is some type of fluid at the back wheels then remove the fill plug on the rearend and make sure its not about out of gear oil.

also make sure that the bleeder/air valve on the top drivers side of the rearend moves up and down freely.(mine was gummed up and kept causing me to blow the seal and ruined an axle)

if the seal is leaking, you should be able to see it leaking at the seal (where the axle disapears into the axle housing)


good luck, Bill

[1987cp]

Holy resurrection of threads that were last posted in a third of a year ago!

Reminds me, when I get around to buying one of those heavy-duty knotted wire wheels, I should try it on some rusty brake drums. Might be easier than trying to sandblast with an oilless air compressor.

[brokebill]

if i ain't read it, its new to me. LOL!!!


wonder how it ended?

[eightysixwinter]

i read the title of the thread and thought it looked familiar..... ebrake was stuck. wheel cylinder leaking. and axle seals seaping a bit. it was all fixed a long time ago.