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    *(^&(^*&^)*_(_ control arms...

    I'm doing front springs and shocks. I have one spring and shock out, and the lower control arm dropped. I got the new spring back in, but I can't fucking line up the fucking god damn bolts for the lower control arm. Does anyone have any suggestions on how to do this? I'm out there trying to use a jack to lift the heavy bastard while I'm trying to use like three crowbars to move one ear at a time into line to slide a bolt through, all while the car is wobbling and tilting sideways and all over the place on jackstands.

    There's definitely gotta be a smarter and safer way to do this. I need some advice bad, before I kill myself. I had the new spring in the pocket and compressed with my spring compressor, but after it fell out and landed smack dab on my middle finger, I've called it a night. I need to at least get this side back together by the end of Sunday because I need the car for school.

    How do you guys get the bolt holes in this god damn LCA to line up easily?

    #2
    Ida thought you put the bolts in 1st, then swing the arm up and compress with the jack to get it to the knuckle.
    Pete ::::>>> resident LED addict and CFI defector LED bulb replacements
    'LTD HPP' 85 Vic (my rusty baby) '06 Honda Reflex 250cc 'Baileys' 91 Vic (faded cream puff) ClifFord 'ODB' 88 P72 (SOLD) '77 LTDII (RIP)
    sigpic
    85HPP's most noteworthy mods: CFI to SEFI conversion w/HO upperstuff headers & flowmasters P71 airbox Towncar seats LED dash light-show center console w/5 gauge package LED 3rd brake light 3G alternator mini starter washer/coolant bottle upgrade Towncar power trunk pull underhood fuse/relay box 16" HPP wheels - police swaybars w/poly rubbers - budget Alpine driven 10 speaker stereo

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      #3
      take the spring out!.......the backwards way is dangerous

      1986 lincoln towncar signature series. 5.0 HO with thumper performance ported e7 heads, 1.7 roller rockers, warm air intake, 65mm throttle body, 1/2" intake spacer, ported intakes, 3.73 rear with trac lock, 98-02 front brake conversion, 92-97 rear disc conversion, 1" rear swaybar, 1 3/16" front swaybar, 16" wheels and tires, loud ass stereo system, badass cb, best time to date 15.94 at 87 mph. lots of mods in the works 221.8 rwhp 278 rwt
      2006 Lincoln Town Car Signature. Stock for now
      1989 Ford F-250 4x4 much much more to come, sefi converted so far.
      1986 Toyota pickup with LSC wheels and 225/60/16 tires.
      2008 Hyundai Elantra future Revcon toad
      1987 TriBurner and 1986 Alaska stokers keeping me warm. (and some pesky oil heat)

      please be patient, rebuilding an empire!

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        #4
        Originally posted by 85crownHPP* View Post
        Ida thought you put the bolts in 1st, then swing the arm up and compress with the jack to get it to the knuckle.
        Agreed, the other way is just a disaster waiting to happen - Jim, like Scott said yank that spring back out, then break the ball joint loose from the knuckle, attach the control arm to the frame, put the spring in, then jack the end of the control arm up so the ball joint fits back in the knuckle.

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          #5
          It's a PITA to do it that way.... Takes alot of time.
          Builder/Owner of Badass Panther Wagons

          Busy maintaining a fleet of Fords

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            #6
            Like the others have said, bolt the arm to the frame first. I can't imagine trying to do it the way you've described; it's a disaster waiting to happen.

            Rob
            1996 Police Interceptor-187K miles **Replacement DD found**
            Engine/trans: '03 4.6, underdrives, shorties, 80mm MAF, Custom downpipes, Ported plenum, 70MM T/B, and Dyno Tune. J-modded Y2K 4r70w w/ Marauder TC.
            Misc: ADDCO bars, Big brakes, 17" wheels, '02 steering box, and LXSport console w/ floor shift! :headbang:

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              #7
              Yeah, doing the other way proved to be a lot easier and safer. That's what I get for following the instructions of a Chilton's. After having the car rocking precariously all over the place I figured there's gotta be a smarter way to do it than bolting the control arm up.

              Along with that my damn compression tool is a piece of shit and starts to slip off as I tighten it, so I can't get the spring as tight as would be convenient. I finally got it though. Now I gotta finid time to do the other side...

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                #8
                Well, got the other one in tonight. Broke a sway bar endlink in the process. Can't get one until tomorrow afternoon. Driving to school on the highway is going to be a blast tomorrow.

                Comment


                  #9
                  yea the backwards arm install works on some lighter cars........tried this on a town car in 2005 and almost launched the lincoln off the lift

                  1986 lincoln towncar signature series. 5.0 HO with thumper performance ported e7 heads, 1.7 roller rockers, warm air intake, 65mm throttle body, 1/2" intake spacer, ported intakes, 3.73 rear with trac lock, 98-02 front brake conversion, 92-97 rear disc conversion, 1" rear swaybar, 1 3/16" front swaybar, 16" wheels and tires, loud ass stereo system, badass cb, best time to date 15.94 at 87 mph. lots of mods in the works 221.8 rwhp 278 rwt
                  2006 Lincoln Town Car Signature. Stock for now
                  1989 Ford F-250 4x4 much much more to come, sefi converted so far.
                  1986 Toyota pickup with LSC wheels and 225/60/16 tires.
                  2008 Hyundai Elantra future Revcon toad
                  1987 TriBurner and 1986 Alaska stokers keeping me warm. (and some pesky oil heat)

                  please be patient, rebuilding an empire!

                  Comment


                    #10
                    I'm actually surprised the Chilton has that info. The Haynes manual doesn't have suspension service info. It just tells you to take it to a shop basically.
                    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
                    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

                    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

                    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

                    Originally posted by phayzer5
                    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

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                      #11
                      Haynes blows. How did the istall work out???? Do you guys reccomend boltong up both bushings or just one before i put the spring in?
                      Vehicle: 1965 Pontiac Catalina (fastback 2+2)
                      Chasis: 1982 Ford LTD Country Squire
                      Drivetrain: 302 V8 carb, AOD, 8.8 with 3.08 gears.
                      Big Brake swap and front suspension completed.
                      sigpic

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                        #12
                        Leave both control arm bolts bolted up. Don't even bother with that, it's dangerous, time-consuming, and stupid. You'll have the easiest time if you just take the knuckle out of the way all together. I did it by disconnecting the bottom ball joint but several times I wished I had disconnected the top one too, because the knuckle was constantly swinging into the way. Save yourself the headache and get the entire knuckle out of the way. Have a second pair of hands nearby too if you've never done this, because you may need them. My spring compressor is a piece of shit and it's way easier to handle things with someone helping. It took me a day and a half to do one side because I was wrestling with that stupid tool for so long. The second one I did with someone helping me tighten and hold the claws of the compressor, and with him helping I started at about 7 PM and got done by 11. That was with the compressor still being shitty though... do yourself a favor and if you don't already have a spring compressor, get yourself a DAMN good one.

                        It's not fun, and it's not exactly a walk in the park like replacing rear springs is, but it's do-able. I got mine in last night, at the cost of a few hours of sleep.

                        Oh, and who'da thunk that a Town Car might get a little squirrely doing 80 on the highway with half the sway bar disconnected?
                        Last edited by CheeseSteakJim; 05-13-2008, 10:11 PM.

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                          #13
                          Originally posted by gadget73 View Post
                          The Haynes manual doesn't have suspension service info. It just tells you to take it to a shop basically.
                          That's what I would expect from an Haynes Manual...... :nonono:

                          My Chilton is as detailed as you could ever expect from a Shop Manual. Even goes as far as to list the Exact Alignment Specs for the front end.

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                            #14
                            Only reason I have a Haynes, it came with the car. I use the Ford manual for most things if I need to refer to something.

                            Removing the whole knuckle does make doing the springs easier, though if you really don't want to, you can seperate it just at the upper ball joint and do it fairly easily. The knuckle will flop around but it won't be quite as in the way.
                            86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
                            5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

                            91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

                            1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

                            Originally posted by phayzer5
                            I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

                            Comment

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