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    Originally posted by theredlineboss View Post
    Dude, I think that we have some sort of misunderstanding here. I'm guessing that the control arms for boxes were obsoleted some time ago, meaning that installing new bushings is likely the only option when rebuilding the suspension. However, for my '96, new control arms are easy to come by, wether you want NOS or aftermarket.
    Due to time constraints, I decided to purchase and install OEM-spec control arm ASSEMBLIES, complete with new bushings and ball joints. That's why I wrote: "A good suspension rebuild can go a LONG way." I was not specifically saying Colin should buy new arms; it is just what I did for MY car as part of the rebuild process.

    And since the topic of brakes was brought up...Colin, if you wind up rebuilding your front suspension, I gotta recommend that you do the big brake upgrade at the same time. It's worth it. :headbang: Although, admittedly, it is a lot easier to install on a '95-97 than on a box....

    -Rob

    PS: If anyone's interested, you can see what I did with the front suspension Here.

    the upper arm bushings are easilly replaceable and dirt cheap.....waste of money buying new arms if you ask me

    1986 lincoln towncar signature series. 5.0 HO with thumper performance ported e7 heads, 1.7 roller rockers, warm air intake, 65mm throttle body, 1/2" intake spacer, ported intakes, 3.73 rear with trac lock, 98-02 front brake conversion, 92-97 rear disc conversion, 1" rear swaybar, 1 3/16" front swaybar, 16" wheels and tires, loud ass stereo system, badass cb, best time to date 15.94 at 87 mph. lots of mods in the works 221.8 rwhp 278 rwt
    2006 Lincoln Town Car Signature. Stock for now
    1989 Ford F-250 4x4 much much more to come, sefi converted so far.
    1986 Toyota pickup with LSC wheels and 225/60/16 tires.
    2008 Hyundai Elantra future Revcon toad
    1987 TriBurner and 1986 Alaska stokers keeping me warm. (and some pesky oil heat)

    please be patient, rebuilding an empire!

    Comment




      I guess that I should expect being questioned like this, since I'm a n00b again. At any rate, when it comes to replacement parts, I'm a bargain hunter. In fact, I've been gathering these parts for about 2 years.

      Generally speaking, it IS a big waste o’ money to buy new arms. Looking at NAPA and PartsAmerica, you are looking at costs averaging around 200 bux per arm. If that were the price that I *had* to pay for new components, I’d have rebuilt the original arms...or bought a better car.

      However, I was able to purchase the upper control arms for about $50 each. Yes, these are easy to remove and stuff, but that's close enough to the cost of bushings and ball joints for me to spring for the new stuff.
      The lowers cost quite a bit more. I cannot say that I saved any money here, but honestly, I did not want to deal with rebuilding them. When I found a place that had them for $115/ea + shippping, I took it. I might've been able to get them cheaper, but my front suspension began making bad noises, so it was time to move.

      I know that the arms themselves were physically fine. Convenience was the reason for this, 100%. However, I don't think it was as big of a waste of money as you may initially believe. And since I didn't want to install poly bushings, and I was satsified w/ OEM-style balljoints, there was even less reason for me to rebuild the components myself.

      As for the LCA's, they are basically the same from 1979-2002, as you said. The differences lie in the bushings and balljoints, not the arm itself. P71interceptor.com explains the differences pretty well.

      -Rob
      1996 Police Interceptor-187K miles **Replacement DD found**
      Engine/trans: '03 4.6, underdrives, shorties, 80mm MAF, Custom downpipes, Ported plenum, 70MM T/B, and Dyno Tune. J-modded Y2K 4r70w w/ Marauder TC.
      Misc: ADDCO bars, Big brakes, 17" wheels, '02 steering box, and LXSport console w/ floor shift! :headbang:

      Comment


        The convinience of having fresh parts ready to slap back in holds high value to the weekend warrior... plus not everyone has the facility to press ball joints and bushings.
        Considering the good price on the loaded uppers I can't see whay anyone would say he didnt do the "right" thing :p
        Last edited by 85crownHPP; 04-29-2008, 09:34 PM.
        Pete ::::>>> resident LED addict and CFI defector LED bulb replacements
        'LTD HPP' 85 Vic (my rusty baby) '06 Honda Reflex 250cc 'Baileys' 91 Vic (faded cream puff) ClifFord 'ODB' 88 P72 (SOLD) '77 LTDII (RIP)
        sigpic
        85HPP's most noteworthy mods: CFI to SEFI conversion w/HO upperstuff headers & flowmasters P71 airbox Towncar seats LED dash light-show center console w/5 gauge package LED 3rd brake light 3G alternator mini starter washer/coolant bottle upgrade Towncar power trunk pull underhood fuse/relay box 16" HPP wheels - police swaybars w/poly rubbers - budget Alpine driven 10 speaker stereo

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          Oh yeah, since he got them so cheap tis a deal for sure, tis regular list price that makes them not really worthy. But hey, either way it worked for him, and like you said convenience factor is a great motivator for parts purchase.

          Comment


            Colin, did you catch any of this hijacked thread? Actually good info here, not just all of us talking about dinner, Star Trek, or Elvis...

            Comment


              I just got a PM from Colin yesterday ... guess he hadn't been on GMN at all in quite a while.

              One thing I'm thinking about since I have the stock rear bar off the P72 temporarily, is to yank the aftermarket rear bar from the wagon and see how cheaply I can whittle up the brackets necessary to mount it to the stock swaybar mounting holes.

              :cutit:
              2012 Mazda5 Touring | Finally working on the LTD again!

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