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upper control arm bolts??

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    #1

    upper control arm bolts??

    Group
    why in gods name did fomoco, use a giant torx type bolt for the upper control arms on the rear axle?
    I pulled this k code rear from a town car (1990)
    and was shocked to see that type of bolt, unlike my fox body mustang that has a regular headed bolt for those arms???
    Tags: None
    #2
    No clue.. but Ive never had any issue getting them out.
    Builder/Owner of Badass Panther Wagons

    Busy maintaining a fleet of Fords

    Comment

      #3
      I'm sure someone thought it was a good idea.
      86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
      5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

      91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

      1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

      Originally posted by phayzer5
      I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

      Comment

        #4
        Probably because those bolts were on clearance.
        ,
        Slicktop '91 GS HO 4.30 rear. '82 Mark VI Tudor HO, '90 F-150 XLT, '62 project Heep, '89 Arizona Waggin' and '88 donor in PA, getting combined.

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          #5
          Probably wanted to "prevent" people from working on their own rear suspensions. My limited experience is that getting the nuts off isn't so bad, but getting the bolt out after the nut is off is near impossible!
          2012 Mazda5 Touring | Finally working on the LTD again!

          Comment

            #6
            Yeah, I need to get a bog torx bit to remove my rear in the spring. Any idea what size torx that is?
            **2012 Ford Mustang Boss 302: 5.0/ 6 spd/ 3.73s, 20K Cruiser
            **2006 MGM,"Ultimate": 4.6/ 2.73/ Dark Tint, Magnaflows, 19s, 115K Daily Driver
            **2012 Harley Davidson Wide Glide (FXDWG):103/ Cobra Speedsters/ Cosmetics, 9K Poseur HD Rider
            **1976 Ford F-150 4WD: 360, 4 spd, 3.50s, factory A/C, 4" lift, Bilsteins, US Indy Mags, 35s Truck Duties

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              #7
              t55 iirc
              Builder/Owner of Badass Panther Wagons

              Busy maintaining a fleet of Fords

              Comment

                #8
                Looked like a T50 last time I was underneath mine, but my memory's fuzzy and I could easily be mistaken.

                EDIT: I bet mrltd's right.
                Last edited by CheeseSteakJim; 02-27-2008, 06:51 PM.

                Comment

                  #9
                  just take them out and go buy some 10.9 14mm bolts long enough to fit in there. or if you want to save money since metric bolts are more expensive than SAE, drill out the bushing sleeve and the bracket to the next biggest SAE size (9/16 i think) and then use a standard nut and bolt (grade 8).

                  We did this on my brothers T-bird, but the fox chassis uses 12mm bolts so they were drilled out to 1/2"
                  http://secondhandracing.com/Home.aspx
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                  R.I.P. Jason P Harrill 6-12-06

                  http://www.grandmarq.net/vb/showthread.php?t=5634

                  Comment

                    #10
                    Actually if the rears are anything like the fronts as far as hole clearances go then the 9/16 bolts will fit right in - 9/16 and 14mm is damn near the same, whereas the 1/2" is 0.7mm larger than the 12mm so tis closer to 13mmm, hence the need for re-drilling in Duce's brother's T-bird.

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