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    #16
    Originally posted by torquelover View Post
    Beware the higher ratio rears if you like to drive at high speeds on the highway; a new driveshaft might be needed.
    The man raises an excellent point. Even with just 3.55s, my steel driveshaft has been making vibration problems above about 75 mph, so you may want to start looking around for an aluminum driveshaft as well. They came stock on some police boxes (though not all, evidently, since mine doesn't have one); otherwise I think you'll find one from a '92+ car will go right in as long as you swap the slip yoke from your old driveshaft, and possibly the pinion flange too if your differential doesn't already have the large flange.

    2001 Ford Crown Victoria P71 - "The Fire Engine"
    1985 Lincoln Town Car Signature Series
    But God demonstrates his own love for us in this: While we were still sinners, Christ died for us. Romans 5:8

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      #17
      thanks!!!

      Thank you guys so much, I also plan on doing the T5 swap very soon, in that case I would need to get an alluminum driveshaft anyways right?

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        #18
        You wouldn't necessarily need it just because you swapped to a T5, but it wouldn't hurt, regardless.

        2001 Ford Crown Victoria P71 - "The Fire Engine"
        1985 Lincoln Town Car Signature Series
        But God demonstrates his own love for us in this: While we were still sinners, Christ died for us. Romans 5:8

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          #19
          I have a link for the cross drilled rotors. I'm at school now in the computations lab though, ands its on my home computer. If I remember I'll add it when I get home.
          **2012 Ford Mustang Boss 302: 5.0/ 6 spd/ 3.73s, 20K Cruiser
          **2006 MGM,"Ultimate": 4.6/ 2.73/ Dark Tint, Magnaflows, 19s, 115K Daily Driver
          **2012 Harley Davidson Wide Glide (FXDWG):103/ Cobra Speedsters/ Cosmetics, 9K Poseur HD Rider
          **1976 Ford F-150 4WD: 360, 4 spd, 3.50s, factory A/C, 4" lift, Bilsteins, US Indy Mags, 35s Truck Duties

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            #20
            Originally posted by torquelover View Post
            I've had good luck with the Performance Friction pads with wide, sticky tires and tightly adjusted rear 11" drums (all stock on my Vic). Bleeding the brakes thoroughly really helps pedal feel/firmness and allows you to threshold brake much easier. While I agree you can never have too much in the braking department, this setup is pretty good. Enough for my Vic's power levels, anyway. Want more? Look up switching over to the later style larger rotor/spindle/caliper assembly. Beware the higher ratio rears if you like to drive at high speeds on the highway; a new driveshaft might be needed.
            I have PF front pads on mine, they do work well. The driveshaft is also a good point. Mine is a factory 3.55 rear tow package car, and the DS does vibe a bit. Not nearly so much since the rear was overhauled, but it does take out the rear seal on the transmission from time to time. I need to find someplace that will balance it since unfortunately I'm sort of screwed for aluminum upgrades. Apparently the 6 Towncars they installed them on all got destroyed at the junkyards.
            86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
            5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

            91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

            1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

            Originally posted by phayzer5
            I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

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              #21
              If you get higher level performance pads you will think twice about upgrading your brakes. The pads I go to the track with will brake harder, faster than any big brake setup with street pads. I can lock up 275 HTZ tires at 90mph without even trying. I have no problem dealing with 120mph braking zones with Hoosier slicks. However, bigger brakes do one thing, they last longer. With the right pads, you can make any brake setup perform as good as you want, but with bigger brakes you can make it do that for longer.

              I have run Performance Friction Z-Rated, and Hawk HP-Plus pads on my Vic with great success on the track. The Z-Rated pads do not squeak on the street so they are better for daily driver cars. The HP-Plus (NOT HPS) squeak all the time, so they can get annoying on the street, but they brake even better. Both of those pads are just entry level track pads.

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