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air shocks that don't suck?

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    air shocks that don't suck?

    Is there such a thing? I know most people hate them because the whole air part of it, but are there any that the shock portion is actually half decent? Normally I run almost no air in my shocks, less than 20 psi. Its only there for the load level stuff in case I tow something. Currently I have whatever brand of air shocks are both cheap, readily available at Advance, and white. I didn't install them. The back end of the car sort of bounces more than it should when I do the push down on one corner test if I don't have like 50 psi or so in the shocks. I'd like to replace them with something stiffer. All I've really found are Gabrial HiJackers and Monroe shocks listed at Advance. Anyone know if there is a less craptacular shock I can use, or if maybe the Monroe is firmer than the Gabriel?
    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

    Originally posted by phayzer5
    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

    #2
    get the paper catalog from Advance, look for the KYB-GR2s for a newer Crown Vic, according to the folks at the local Advance Auto said shocks exist, have airbags in them, are priced at about $50 a piece, and don't come with the air lines or valve.

    Comment


      #3
      Could always go with some decent shocks and either convert to airbags or get the add on airbags. Those would still work with the load levelling and probably be better handling wise...
      Builder/Owner of Badass Panther Wagons

      Busy maintaining a fleet of Fords

      Comment


        #4
        I've more than slightly considered full on air ride in the back off a later model car, but it will involve a fair bit of wiring. The spring rate is also lower, unless I manage to get my hands on limo springs or something. I more want this thing to ride nice, so I'll give up a little handling for that. I guess it might be time to start junkyard shopping for good air springs and the associated wiring.

        I'll also have a look around to see if KYB air shocks for an F150 can be obtained. I need to check the shocks I have now to see if they've got enough travel with those wagon springs in the back.
        86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
        5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

        91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

        1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

        Originally posted by phayzer5
        I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

        Comment


          #5
          Who was it that had the thread with F150 shocks?

          That might be a route to consider too...
          1984 Ford Crown Vic LTD, The Murphmobile (RIP)
          1985 Ford Crown Vic LTD, The Murph Deuce (SOLD)
          1978 Chevrolet Caprice Classic, The Crapiece (current project)

          Comment


            #6
            Thain, have you thought of using regular TC air springs and overload springs at the same time? By overload springs I mean those that go around yer shocks, that girl with the crazy-painted Dodge Spirit who registered here last year had a pair of those in the back of her fullsize Mopar, whatever it was...

            Comment


              #7
              IMO, a better option would be normal gas pressurized shock abosorbers and Air-lift airsprings inside the stock rear coils (they just slip inside the coil spring)

              This is what I'm running - allows me to use nice IAS shocks, but adjust for load/alter ride height as I desire. I got them so I can toy around with my rear spring rate as I desired.


              The kit is only like $65
              -My Homepage, Panther info & FAQs-
              My Mint 96' Mercury Grand Marquis LSE -
              Modifications
              Click My Merc for more Pics!

              Comment


                #8
                Derek, got a linky to that kit you're using? Also how do you run the air lines to the helper air springs, meaning where do the lines go through the coil springs to reach the air springs inside? Any pics?

                Comment


                  #9
                  The helper air spring inside the coils is one option I guess. I still might go factory air suspension just so I can say I did it. I've already got all manner of wierdo custom-fitted production parts, whats a few more. Besides, the technical challenge of getting it to work and look good sounds right up my alley. I'll add air ride parts to my list of stuff to harvest from the yard. And no, I'm not sharing my list. Its all a secret.
                  86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
                  5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

                  91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

                  1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

                  Originally posted by phayzer5
                  I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Goofus, you don't need to share yer list - I'd just snag the air springs and the pigtails that plug in them, the splice them pigtails into the compressor's power wires so that the solenoids open when the compressor runs or vents and are closed when it's off. And if you wanna get real creative you can add an equalizing valve wired together with the individual solenoids, so it only allows air to flow spring to spring when the compressors' active. There, did that take care of the secret list? :p

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Originally posted by drock96marquis View Post
                      IMO, a better option would be normal gas pressurized shock abosorbers and Air-lift airsprings inside the stock rear coils (they just slip inside the coil spring)

                      This is what I'm running - allows me to use nice IAS shocks, but adjust for load/alter ride height as I desire. I got them so I can toy around with my rear spring rate as I desired.


                      The kit is only like $65
                      Didn't I say that
                      Builder/Owner of Badass Panther Wagons

                      Busy maintaining a fleet of Fords

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Originally posted by MeLikeyStripperChicks View Post
                        Goofus, you don't need to share yer list - I'd just snag the air springs and the pigtails that plug in them, the splice them pigtails into the compressor's power wires so that the solenoids open when the compressor runs or vents and are closed when it's off. And if you wanna get real creative you can add an equalizing valve wired together with the individual solenoids, so it only allows air to flow spring to spring when the compressors' active. There, did that take care of the secret list? :p
                        No, I meant my list of shit I'm doing. I never tell people what I'm up to, and I don't take many(any) pics. I have a few other plans in the works, and if you snoop around in other places you can figure out what I'm up to, but I usually don't like to talk about my goofy ideas before I do them.

                        The stock air springs have individual solenoids, so there wouldn't be a need for an equalizing valve really. The solenoids are only open connecting the air springs to the compressor plumbing in compress or vent mode. They shut when they're maintaining ride height, mostly to remove the problem of shifting air like standard air shocks have. I actually didn't really consider the idea of just using my stock compressor but in all honesty now that I think about it, there is no particular reason I can't use it with some very minor wiring modifications to add connections out to the air spring solenoids. A pair of diodes from the compressor and vent triggers run to a relay that will power the solenoids on the air springs themselves when the compressor runs or vents. Should take all of like 10 minutes to actually tie that in.
                        86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
                        5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

                        91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

                        1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

                        Originally posted by phayzer5
                        I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Yah, now that I think of it the equalizer valve will not be necessary, as while the
                          solenoids are open air will be shifting from spring to spring if necessary despite there's even more air incoming from the compressor. Other than that yer idea about wiring the bags is exactly the same as mine

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