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    Rear control arm bushings...

    What's the deal on these? I'm about to grab some police LCAs to do the sway bar install properly but want to swap the bushings while the control arms are out. Looking at swapping all the bushings (upper and lower) while I'm in there. Anyone have part numbers? Not necessarily looking for high performance, but I'd consider poly if someone knows of a kit. Otherwise, rubber bushings are fine.

    Should I plan to grab a whole set of control arms to install the bushings and just swap the arms or is it easy enough to swap the bushings that I can plan to swap the uppers as I pull them out?
    2011 Mustang GT Premium, MT82, Kona/Saddle, HIDs, 3.73s, 19s, hood/side stripes, UPR 1.5" springs with adjustable panhard bar, and UMI solid LCAs and relocation brackets.
    1992 Explorer Eddie Bauer, slight lift, 34s, and A/C...
    1979 Bronco Custom, 351M/C6/NP205, 4" lift, 35s, lots of fender trimming.

    #2
    I just posted about this... The 92-97 ES ones work, but are discontinued. They are still available (suspension.com) and expensive. And should only be used in the lower control arms.
    Builder/Owner of Badass Panther Wagons

    Busy maintaining a fleet of Fords

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      #3
      I went down to autozone to see what kind of bushings they could get for my 89 Police Sedan rear lower control arms. They listed two different bushings; one had a note that said except police & taxi so I bought the other one just to see if it would work. Well it will not, Duralast part #FB414 will not fit the police control arms (too small). So I’m not sure where to find stock rubber bushing.

      I have never bought anything poly or poly graphite, but $100+ for a poly set that you have to reuse your stock shells seems way to high. If I can find some poly graphite stock I will just make some. The hardest part for me will be to track down some poly graphite stock to use; the rest should be a piece of pie.



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        #4
        www.mcmaster.com. When you see the prices for poly cylinders you will understand why the ES kit costs so much.


        I'd see if they have the FB413 and compare it...
        Builder/Owner of Badass Panther Wagons

        Busy maintaining a fleet of Fords

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          #5
          Originally posted by mrltd View Post
          www.mcmaster.com. When you see the prices for poly cylinders you will understand why the ES kit costs so much.


          I'd see if they have the FB413 and compare it...


          A 48” long 2.25” diameter would make 24 bushings (enough to do 6 boxes), and if we assume a cost of $175 for the material. The would mean each bushing would cost around $7.30 each for the raw material plus the time/labor to fabricate the bushing. So to replace all 4 of the lower control arm bushings would cost about $30 for the material only. That's not bad, the bushings from autozone are $9.99 each or $12.99 each and you need 4 total.

          What Durometer Rating or Tensile Strength would be best to make them out of? Does mcmaster.com carry poly-graphite? I would rather use a poly-graphite material to avoid any squeaks.


          I went back to autozone and ordered the other part # they listed for the lower rear control arms. If it is wrong I will try the FB413, but that is for the front or rear upper arms; can’t remember which.

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            #6
            You need more material than the exact bushing width. Gotta worry about flanges ( so a larger diameter is needed) and the amount lost per cut. And screw ups. A durometer between 70 and 88 would be a good choice. Don't think they have graphite impregnated.... I'm running poly in the front everywhere and have never had any squeaks.
            Builder/Owner of Badass Panther Wagons

            Busy maintaining a fleet of Fords

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              #7
              Originally posted by mrltd View Post
              You need more material than the exact bushing width. Gotta worry about flanges ( so a larger diameter is needed) and the amount lost per cut. And screw ups. A durometer between 70 and 88 would be a good choice. Don't think they have graphite impregnated.... I'm running poly in the front everywhere and have never had any squeaks.
              The 48" x 2.25" is larger than the actual bushing. Each finished bushing is 1.75” long, so I would have 6” extra length and the finished diameter is smaller than 2.25” so it would need to be turned down for a perfect press in fit. I am using a rubber insert that I pressed out of the shell to take my dimensions for the replacement insert.

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                #8
                The preload might be too much if you use the rubber as a template. I can't remember the exact spec they suggest for preload on the poly off hand.

                This is what I mean about having the larger bushing diameter. The rings hold the arm in place since the poly is not bonded to the sleeve like the rubber. I don't know if you could glue them in and not have an issue. Of course you could also make the bushings as 2 seperate peices with the lip on each side....that'd take care of that.
                Builder/Owner of Badass Panther Wagons

                Busy maintaining a fleet of Fords

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                  #9
                  Um... so what about stock replacement bushings then? Like I said, I'm not so worried about performance- this car is more DD than go kart. I'd rather err on the side of comfort. Besides- new bushings will make a huge enough difference that poly won't be necessary. If AZ's bushings don't fit the police lowers, what does?
                  2011 Mustang GT Premium, MT82, Kona/Saddle, HIDs, 3.73s, 19s, hood/side stripes, UPR 1.5" springs with adjustable panhard bar, and UMI solid LCAs and relocation brackets.
                  1992 Explorer Eddie Bauer, slight lift, 34s, and A/C...
                  1979 Bronco Custom, 351M/C6/NP205, 4" lift, 35s, lots of fender trimming.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Might be able to get them from Ford, LMAO.... Gotta see what the places have. Might have to just deal with NON-PI if you want stock replacement bushings.
                    Builder/Owner of Badass Panther Wagons

                    Busy maintaining a fleet of Fords

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                      #11
                      I want to run the PI lowers since we found that there is definitely a difference. Whatever it takes to run those, I want to do it. For the uppers I'm sure I can find replacements without too much drama.
                      2011 Mustang GT Premium, MT82, Kona/Saddle, HIDs, 3.73s, 19s, hood/side stripes, UPR 1.5" springs with adjustable panhard bar, and UMI solid LCAs and relocation brackets.
                      1992 Explorer Eddie Bauer, slight lift, 34s, and A/C...
                      1979 Bronco Custom, 351M/C6/NP205, 4" lift, 35s, lots of fender trimming.

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Dude, it's not gonna make any difference if you are going for ride over anything else. Hell, even autocrossing mine it does fine with the standard arms...
                        Builder/Owner of Badass Panther Wagons

                        Busy maintaining a fleet of Fords

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                          #13
                          I bought stock replacement bushings. All 8 on my car are the same size. I dont have the part number handy but it was a rubber Spicer part.
                          86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
                          5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

                          91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

                          1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

                          Originally posted by phayzer5
                          I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

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                            #14

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                              #15
                              Originally posted by mrltd View Post
                              Dude, it's not gonna make any difference if you are going for ride over anything else. Hell, even autocrossing mine it does fine with the standard arms...
                              As simple as it is to swap control arms, I'd rather do it... if nothing else, for the sake of knowing it's the way God intended it.
                              2011 Mustang GT Premium, MT82, Kona/Saddle, HIDs, 3.73s, 19s, hood/side stripes, UPR 1.5" springs with adjustable panhard bar, and UMI solid LCAs and relocation brackets.
                              1992 Explorer Eddie Bauer, slight lift, 34s, and A/C...
                              1979 Bronco Custom, 351M/C6/NP205, 4" lift, 35s, lots of fender trimming.

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