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    Disc Brakes for Rear

    I wasn't sure where to post this...


    What do I need to convert to disc brakes in the back?
    I figure since my car's going to be really fast after it's built that it needs a little better stopping power...
    I don't know a whole lot about brakes, but I do know that discs are more powerful and that discs "squeeze" instead of "push" like Drums.
    Also, keeping my 15" rims, can I go any bigger than the stock brakes?
    would discs in the back help stop it at all? or would I be wasting time/money?

    thanks for any input

    -Colin
    sigpic
    1989 Ford Crown Victoria
    99K

    #2
    backing plates and everything that mounts on 'em. Really simple install. Will need standard to metric adapters too. Parking brakes need some oddball cables and a Help! adjuster.
    Builder/Owner of Badass Panther Wagons

    Busy maintaining a fleet of Fords

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      #3
      Upgrading just the back won't really improve braking power, but disc brakes have better reliability, and will be at best operation more often than drums. Big brakes in the front will require some 16" wheels or larger.

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        #4
        ah that's what I thought...oh well...scratch that idea...maybe I'll do the conversion down the road if I get 16" wheels..but not likely.
        sigpic
        1989 Ford Crown Victoria
        99K

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          #5
          I got a pair of rear disks with a Town Car rearend I picked up. Looks like it should be easy to switch the backing plates and bolt on everything else.

          I haven't inspected the parking brake mechanism real closely; what's the main difference?
          2012 Mazda5 Touring | Finally working on the LTD again!

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            #6
            Originally posted by Blaze86Vic View Post
            Upgrading just the back won't really improve braking power, but disc brakes have better reliability, and will be at best operation more often than drums. Big brakes in the front will require some 16" wheels or larger.
            yup, my 97 still has the original rear brake pads, the car has 125,000 miles on them. I think only one person has actually worn a set of rear pads out, one had a pad failure and another replaced them since they had the caliper off.
            http://secondhandracing.com/Home.aspx
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              #7
              Originally posted by 1987cp View Post
              I got a pair of rear disks with a Town Car rearend I picked up. Looks like it should be easy to switch the backing plates and bolt on everything else.

              I haven't inspected the parking brake mechanism real closely; what's the main difference?
              The attachment style up front is a bit different, one cable needs to be shortened a bit and a turnbuckle has to be installed to tension it properly. The actual cable itself is different too, since it hooks to the bitty inner shoes instead of to the big shoes in a drum arrangement.


              Colin: you know the wagons and tow package cars got an 11" drum for improved stopping. They do make a difference. I've driven stock cars with the standard 10" drums and my car when it had stock brakes and 11" drums, and mine did better. Rear discs are probably equal or maybe a bit better in stopping power to the 11" drums, are possibly a bit more reliable and definitely easier to source parts for. If you really want better stopping, I'd suggest upgraded front brakes as well but rear disc are probably somewhat better than stock 10" drums, even if just for the fact they are easier to service. they're also somewhat less "grabby", making for better controlled braking. My car with big front brakes and 11" rear drums will lock the rear wheels up fairly easily.
              86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
              5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

              91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

              1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

              Originally posted by phayzer5
              I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

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                #8
                All disks will also give you much better pedal feel.

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                  #9
                  hmm...I might do it eventually
                  sigpic
                  1989 Ford Crown Victoria
                  99K

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                    #10
                    it's a cheap upgrade.......do it!

                    1986 lincoln towncar signature series. 5.0 HO with thumper performance ported e7 heads, 1.7 roller rockers, warm air intake, 65mm throttle body, 1/2" intake spacer, ported intakes, 3.73 rear with trac lock, 98-02 front brake conversion, 92-97 rear disc conversion, 1" rear swaybar, 1 3/16" front swaybar, 16" wheels and tires, loud ass stereo system, badass cb, best time to date 15.94 at 87 mph. lots of mods in the works 221.8 rwhp 278 rwt
                    2006 Lincoln Town Car Signature. Stock for now
                    1989 Ford F-250 4x4 much much more to come, sefi converted so far.
                    1986 Toyota pickup with LSC wheels and 225/60/16 tires.
                    2008 Hyundai Elantra future Revcon toad
                    1987 TriBurner and 1986 Alaska stokers keeping me warm. (and some pesky oil heat)

                    please be patient, rebuilding an empire!

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                      #11
                      Originally posted by Mr. Land Yacht View Post
                      I wasn't sure where to post this...


                      What do I need to convert to disc brakes in the back?
                      I figure since my car's going to be really fast after it's built that it needs a little better stopping power...
                      I don't know a whole lot about brakes, but I do know that discs are more powerful and that discs "squeeze" instead of "push" like Drums.
                      Also, keeping my 15" rims, can I go any bigger than the stock brakes?
                      would discs in the back help stop it at all? or would I be wasting time/money?

                      thanks for any input

                      -Colin

                      I think it has more "cool" value than anything.

                      Properly adjusted and machined rear drum brakes are very effective and provide adequate stopping power for your car in just about any situation......

                      although most drum brake setups are out of adjustment or fail to "auto adjust" and force the front brakes to do too much of the work.
                      1987 LTD CROWN VICTORIA, 5.0 EFI, MAGNAFLOW DUAL EXH, RED LANDAU
                      FRESH AOD, 3.27 OPEN DIFF, 57K MILES, B&M SHIFT KIT AND R134A A/C


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                        #12
                        Originally posted by 87vicFIVEO View Post
                        although most drum brake setups are out of adjustment or fail to "auto adjust" and force the front brakes to do too much of the work.
                        Which is why discs are better. Drum setups are prone to failing.

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                          #13
                          Originally posted by 87vicFIVEO View Post
                          although most drum brake setups are out of adjustment or fail to "auto adjust" and force the front brakes to do too much of the work.
                          Also why I prefer running adjustable proportioning valves so I can set the front/rear brake bias manually. Finding myself suddenly without rear brakes for a period of time helped turn me off of the stock prop valve. The fact that it's impossible to reach and at least near impossible to find a new replacement for didn't help either.
                          2012 Mazda5 Touring | Finally working on the LTD again!

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                            #14
                            GL stops great with teh drums
                            Pebbles-1968 Ford F250
                            Pile of Junk! An Electronics Project Site (To get wet by)<---Clicky! NEW STUFF!!!!

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                              #15
                              The back tires lock easily on my car with 11" drums. This is not a good thing. Big front brakes, stock police/tow/wagon rear brakes. The proportioning is all wrong, and the drums are way too grabby. Sometime soonish I plan to shitcan the drums and likely the stock prop valve in favor of adjustable stuff that I can get set how I want. I may also dump the stock original MC for a Mark VII unit due to the larger bore. They're either 1/16 or 1/8 larger, I forget offhand. Same spec as a Mustang SVO, but iron and much cheaper.
                              86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
                              5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

                              91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

                              1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

                              Originally posted by phayzer5
                              I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

                              Comment

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