I have noticed no other issues from this vehicle so far besides the popping noise from the front drivers side. It only occurs when I make a hard left onto a bump like a driveway or something. Steering doesn’t feel off or anything/ no wobbling. If someone could tell me what to check then I will check it. Thank you.
 |
-
-
I'd say check the sway bar end links and shocks first.
Though your ride so far has seemed like a bit of a dumpster fire (no offense), so a nut & bolt tightness check wouldn't hurt.
I had a bit of a soft clunk on right turns on my MGM, turned out to be a sloppy shock, the upper bushings were toast.1985 Mercury Grand Marquis LS, "Maisa"
2005 Volvo V70 Bi-Fuel -
No offense taken, I bought it to learn from anyways. Pretty much everything is alright with it now besides what I mentioned. I’ll Jack up the left side and check it when it stops raining.Comment
-
If you are maxing out the steering and hitting a bump, you are probably hearing the knuckle rubbing the "stopper" on the control arm. You could clean the rust off of those parts and maybe apply a dab of grease. Pic should be a close representation.Comment
-
Alright thanks. I am maxing out the steering that’s the only time it occurs.Originally posted by monterey1962 View PostIf you are maxing out the steering and hitting a bump, you are probably hearing the knuckle rubbing the "stopper" on the control arm. You could clean the rust off of those parts and maybe apply a dab of grease. Pic should be a close representation.
Comment
-
good thought on the steering limiter. Often that makes a horrific scraping noise if its dry.
another thing that makes random clunks is the sway bar to frame bushing, but that usually has nothing to do with turn angle. They turn to mush after a while and the bar just bangs around in the bracket.86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley
91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry
1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal
Originally posted by phayzer5
I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousersComment
-
Back again with my lovely automobile, Seems that now I have some steering wheel play (no wheel shaking or anything, just play). When I get off tomorrow I will Jack the car up and wobble the wheels to check for worn suspension parts. If anyone has anything to add or any advice to give please do so. I will keep what you say in mind as I look for this issue. I’ll also check the steering shaft for play too, and I’ll measure exactly how much play is coming from the steering wheel then I’ll get back to this thread.Last edited by monotonorobo; 12-06-2024, 03:34 PM.Comment
-
idler arm and pitman arm are common wear items, same with the outer tie rod ends. loose wheel bearings will also make it sloppy. Check the rag joint too, if thats turning to goo the wheel turns and the box does not.
86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley
91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry
1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal
Originally posted by phayzer5
I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousersComment
-
Yeah I was gonna check the rag joint, im going off for reference from f150s and foxbodies of around the same year. I’m guessing they mostly use the same parts and have the same issues. I changed out the bearings too about a year ago but since then I’ve hit a lot of potholes and what horribly built roads.Originally posted by gadget73 View PostComment
-
F150 yes, Fox not so much. Those are rack and pinion, no center link, idler, or pitman arm. F series has basically the same steering setup though
The bearings being loose usually just means it needs an adjustment. If the wheel is loose up/down tighten it one notch on the castle nut until it stops being floppy. So long as they dont run dry they really don't tend to go bad very often.86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley
91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry
1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal
Originally posted by phayzer5
I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousersComment
-
Alright, this problem seems to be fixed after I messed with it a bit. Next on the list is probably a power steering pump replacement, or at least bleeding the air out of it or something. I noticed the fluid was a bit low so I filled it up some. Got some whining during idle and a lil squeaky noise when I turn sometimes. Best way to describe it is that it sounds like rubber. After I get that situated, I'm replacing the rear air shocks and then eventually the front. Which brand would be close to or better than OEM?Comment
-
Oh yeah, another thing too. Off topic, but a while ago when I mentioned my a/c would blow regular air when idling or stopped sometimes wasn’t because it was low charge, im having the same issues with heat and I already checked my coolant and burped it a few times. It probably a vacuum issue but I already triple checked everything in the engine bay so im guessing it’s probably something in the dash. I plugged off a few vac lines inside for a bit to see if any changes occurred but it remained the same. I’ll check the coffee can again one more time or I might just replace it for the hell of it since it looks pretty beat up, but it holds vacuum last time I checked. Also idle is at normal rpm’s. And if you put the car on defrost, the heat that blows out the vents remain cold, no matter if you’re moving or not.Last edited by monotonorobo; 01-22-2025, 02:39 PM.Comment
-
Sometimes using Dex III Trany Fluid in the PS Pump works wonders. Other stuff is usually too thin but Ford pumps do tend to be somewhat noisy!Originally posted by monotonorobo View PostWhat I Own: 1993 Mercury Grand Marquis GS
What I Help Maintain: 1996 CV / 1988 CV / 1988 TempoComment
-
Power steering pump should use Type F. Dex/Merc III will work fine as well. If you use generic power steering fluid, it WILL squeal. Use ATF.
As for the air shocks... the MONROE MA815 Max-Air and GABRIEL 49205 Hi-Jacker are your only options really for adjustable air shocks. They're pretty much the same, so get the best deal you can find. If you don't have the air system and just mean nitrogen filled shocks (no external air lines), KYB Excel-G or Gabriel Ultra are pretty much stock cloud float feel and the KYB Gas-a-just for firmer feel (police spec).
Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former. -- Albert Einstein
rides: 93 Crown Vic LX (The Red Velvet Cake), 2000 Crown Vic base model (Sandy), 2003 Expedition (the vacation beast)
Originally posted by gadget73
... and it should all work like magic and unicorns and stuff.
Originally posted by dmccaig
Overhead, some poor bastards are flying in airplanes.Comment
-
Yes, Type F is the first choice but I did not mention it as it may be difficult to find. The Dex/Merc III should be easier to find and work well.Originally posted by sly View PostWhat I Own: 1993 Mercury Grand Marquis GS
What I Help Maintain: 1996 CV / 1988 CV / 1988 TempoComment
Comment