Cant Pump Fluid Driver Side Caliper / Master Cylinder Front Only Works

[saiyaneye]

1986 Lincoln Town Car

Just replaced calipers/pads

Okay, on the master cylinder only the front reservoir pumps fluid, the rear reservoir isn't pumping any fluid. I removed all the fluid after trying to pump for a long time with the pneumatic brake bleeder kit by just putting the hose in the master cylinder, cleaned the gunk out with a rag.

Had girlfriend pump brakes and was able to pump fluid through the passenger side bleeder valve, however I cannot through the driver side front. What's some suggestions?

[saiyaneye]

Is it possibly the METERING VALVE? Too late and dark outside not to mess with it. Hopefully will find some time tomorrow.

[gadget73]

There isn't any valve between the left and right side on these. The valving is front to back, so if you have fluid at the passenger side but not the driver's side, about all that would cause that is a failed brake hose or a smashed steel line.

Is the brake light on? If the valve shuttles and blocks the rear brakes it will kick the light on. I wouldn't rule out a bad master cylinder here. An easy test is light application of the brakes and watching for fluid to move in the reservoir. If its not moving, the MC is probably shot. Can confirm by cracking loose a line at the side of the master cylinder and confirming if it makes pressure.

[saiyaneye]

I can't get the lines to budge off the MC. I may need to go get some line wrenches. I took the bleeder valve all the way the driver side caliper and the brake line off on the caliper, tried to push fluid no go. My next step was to take the line off at the MC & the Proportioning Valve and shoot air through it then possibly on the outlet of the proportioning valve to the caliper and shoot air through. It doesn't appear to be broken/smashed, all the lines look like they are in good shape. I could hear the drum brakes on the rear moving when I was pumping.

Been spraying the lines with PB blaster too where I was gonna take em off. Hoping it's just plugged with gunk. The brake light is NOT on.

Im gonna get back out there here in a little bit and see if I can get the line off again. I don't want to round that mf off.

So i'm assuming it is pushing fluid through the rear res of the MC when I open the passenger side??? I need a second person to be outside with me to confirm. Or just check the fluid level...Again i'm about to get back out there in an hour or so and start farting around with it again today.

Bout to try the MERTERING VALVE anyways, based on a post i seen on a Ford Truck website. I read too much

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...in-or-out.html

My son and I bled the brakes yesterday (Sunday). We used the 2 person method. The Service manual said to have one person push the brake pedal down and hold it while the other person opened the bleeder valve. Then close the bleeder valve and let up on the brake pedal. That worked fine for the two back brake bleeders.Then we got to the front caliper bleeders. We first tried it with the bleeder rod pushed in just pushing the brake pedal down and holding it while I opened the passenger side bleeder. Nothing came out. We tried that way several times and nothing. So we pulled out the bleeder rod and put a clip on it. Tried the push down and hold method and again nothing came out. So we tried that two more times and still nothing came out. So we decided to try the method we were familar with on old cars. My son pumped the brake pedal about 5 times and held it. I loosened the bleeder on the caliper and got a hugh woosh of air, bubbles and brake fluid. So after that gusher we decide to go back the the method of just pushing the pedal down once and holding it while I opened the bleeder. That then worked great on the passenger front caliper bleeder and we did that push and hold method and after a few times we go no bubbles. All this time we had the clip on the bleeder rod to hold it pulled out. Then we went to the drivers side and did the push and hold method and that side worked really good.

So even though the manual says the bleeder rod should be pullled out for the F100, I'm still not convinced that it is necessary. I'm thinking that what opened up the metering section of that valve is the pressure that was generated by pumping the brake pedal until we got full pressure into the valve before opening the caliper bleeder. In retrospect on the front I wish we would have first tried the pump and hold method with the bleeder rod pushed in, because I wonder if just the pumping pressure would have opened up the metering valve to the front brake lines and thus not really needing to pull the bleeding rod out. Too late on my truck. May someone else will try the pump method with the bleeder rod push in and let us know if it is really necessary to pull the bleeder rod out when bleeding the front brakes.
Bob

Later edit:
The proportioning valve (combination valve) is a refurbish of the factory original. It was not rusty, just full of black gunk from the old Dot 3 brake fluid. The refurbishment was mostly cleaning up the gunk and replacing the O rings. I made the clip used to hold the bleeder rod pulled out from a piece of a very springy hose clamp. It worked fine.

[jaywish]

If you can hear the rear shoes moving then fluid is moving.

[saiyaneye]

It's the soft brake hose/line going to the caliper, it's plugged up. Tried pushing air through it, no go.

Broke the fucking line though where it connects to the soft brake hose.

Good thing it's the smallest brake line on the vehicle! I hate making brake lines. Im looking now for flexible brake lines that i can use.

What are the smaller brake fitting sizes?

also

Any tips on removing the inner fender easily. I push the center of those clips in do they just pull or do i have to twist. Gonna get back out there in a few min

It's only 14-14.5 inches give or take going to the proportioning valve with 180 degree bend going to the valve, and maybe a 90 degree or so going to the brake hose. I mocked up the shape with some house wire


https://www.amazon.com/Stainless-Ste.../dp/B0CJS35JWJ possibility But need fitting sizes. I think that might be the route i take is something similar to that but with a 180 on one side, however i think the 90 on the proportioning valve side would work

[saiyaneye]

https://www.amazon.com/Stainless-Inverted-Double-Flared-Fittings/dp/B0845S81ZG/ref=pd_pss_dp_d_1_d_sccl_1_7/147-5462870-4280249?pd_rd_w=tpzTw&content-id=amzn1.sym.427cdbb1-779c-4be6-8c9b-81ddadc2ade4&pf_rd_p=427cdbb1-779c-4be6-8c9b-81ddadc2ade4&pf_rd_r=HCC9SBZG8HCEX1AAF2GZ&pd_rd_wg=gk86R&pd_rd_r=468fbb91-d4d3-4d05-b666-ff892b7949aa&pd_rd_i=B084GWYT7P&th=1

I don't know if the extra inch or two would make that big of difference, i don't have a flare tool, but have a bending kit

[gadget73]

the stock lines are 3/16". i think the end at the master cylinder uses a different fitting. Any time I've had to do this, I just re-used the original nut on the MC end and flared the lines. You need flare nut wrenches for this or no chance its coming apart.

There are no flexible brake lines other than the hoses. Get the nickel-copper lines and just make new ones. If the lines are breaking, buy a whole roll and expect to replace all of them.

replace the rubber hose on the other side too, its just as old as the one that failed. Change the one in the back while you're at it, its probably not much better off.