Box Panther Converging 4 Link: What I did.

[Alice87]

Original Ford rubber with factory sleeve are:
2.37” width, OD 2.08” small end & 2.11” big end

Polyurethane inserts (no sleeve) are:
2.44” width, OD 1.98” small end & 2.01” big end (kit 4.3151G works with box panthers).

Also now that I got the factory arms out; their exact lengths are:
Lower: 20.5” bolt center to center
Upper: 12” bolt center to center

Get ready for an info dump Arquemann, as I have to correct some of my measurements:

There are two different size bushings in the factory stamped panther 4 link (both for the original rubber & ES urethane inserts): The 4 lower control arm bushings (axle/frame side), and the 2 upper control arm bushings (frame side) are all 6 the same size:

OE Rubber: 2.37” width, OD 2.08” small end & 2.11” big end
Urethane insert: (part #3345) 2.44” width (both bushing and inner sleeve), OD 1.98” small end & 2.01” big end

My original measurements that you quoted were taken with the bushing still installed into the rear lower control arm. I stupidly did not take into account that the control arm sleeve was also being measured! I corrected my previous misinformation in RED in quote above. With that corrected, I will say all of my other measurements of the control arms length/width and urethane inserts are accurate.

I attached pics of original bushings and urethane inserts below.

Axle Housing bushings (both rubber & ES Urethane inserts) are a different size from the other 6 control arm bushings... Continued in post below.

[Alice87]

Continuing from post #31:

The Axle Housing bushing is as follows:

OE Rubber (both original bushings pressed into axle and NOS FB414 replacements):

2.37” width, OD 2.05” small end & 2.08” big end

ES urethane inserts: (part #3348) 2.44” width (both bushing and inner sleeve), OD 1.94” small end & 2.02” big end

Below I have attached pics of the axle housing bushing measurements. Why on earth Ford made them a different size from the control arm bushings... I cant tell you.

-Kyle

[Alice87]

it’s been years since I had eyes on them. I gave them to my pops as he has an1985 mustang gt. He hasn’t installed them and I honestly have no idea where they are.

one thing worth mentioning is that they are held in place like a nut and bolt iirc. Don’t know how that alters anyone’s thinking surrounding pressing in reducing bushings etc but wanted to mention it.

The spherical bushings i installed in my Fox were a design like this- they are threaded and have a large nut on one side. The link is for S197 bushing (which i am also running on my Mustang) which is a different bushing but same mounting design

https://www.steeda.com/steeda-mustan...-555-4104.html

No problem, and good to know. I'll keep everyone updated on this, as I'll probably order a cheap set of bearings to do some measurements. I think these will be worth installing, as it will eliminate deflection while still allowing for articulation. As long as it presses in clean and is not loose it should work just as well as they work in the Fox Body Mustangs. Like gadget said, using red loctite will be necessary.

-Kyle

[Arquemann]

Excellent correction, thanks. I wasn't sure if the control arms had sleeves through them, but they do, which is good as a narrower-bodied bushing might work anyways.
With the slightly smaller measurements, I conclude that the FEBI 36460 seems the closest fit. Still, it is not a tapered bushing.

According to your newer measurements, 2.08"-2.11" is 52.8-53.6mm and the FEBI piece is 53mm. It would certainly be interesting how that bushing would play in a box arm. I don't have a spare box control arm or a press, and you guys don't have Amarok parts over the counter.

[gadget73]

The control arms don't have a sleeve through them. You're looking at the bushing shell itself. They have a slight flare outward but thats it.

Honestly it would be a lot easier if they had a sleeve, it would make pressing the bushings out far less difficult. The arms try to collapse unless you jam metal blocks in between the open sides.

[Alice87]

The control arms don't have a sleeve through them. You're looking at the bushing shell itself. They have a slight flare outward but thats it.

Honestly it would be a lot easier if they had a sleeve, it would make pressing the bushings out far less difficult. The arms try to collapse unless you jam metal blocks in between the open sides.

You are correct, When I first measured the bushings a few months back, I was placing the dial indicator on that “flare” like an idiot lol. When I first pulled the lower control arms, the flare looked to be the big end of the bushing… but upon closer inspection it turned out to be apart of the control arm flare/sleeve.

I re-measured on the actual bushing sleeve this time around to get an accurate measurement.

Agreed on the stamped control arms... The 3rd/4th gen F-Body's are exactly the same stamped steel design that pinches together when placed under a press.

-Kyle

[gadget73]

I was going to do the LCA bushings on my Continental when I did lower ball joints. No idea how the bastards did it, but it seems like they flared the end of the LCA bushing after it went through the arm. No way to press it through, I'd have to cut the thing in half and push each half out from the middle. I decided they didn't look all that bad and just changed the ball joints. The LCA bushings are in a box on the shelf.