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what do ya think pros and cons

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    #16
    I would absolutely go C4. The AOD is quite frail...if you're building a track toy then OD should be a non issue. C4's are super cheap to build too. I've seen too many AOD transmissions fail in stock or near stock 5.0's. Keep in mind, transmission torque capacities are also calculated against vehicle weight. The heavier the vehicle the lower the torque capacity.

    Good luck!
    -Don
    '85 CV coupe- 351W, T5-Z, FAST Ez-Efi, shorty headers, 2.5" duals with knock off flowmasters, 2.5" Impala tails, seriously worked GT-40 irons, Comp 265DEH cam, 1.7rr's, Mallory HyFire 6A, Taylor ThunderVolt 50 10.4mm wires, 75mm t/b, 3G alt swap, 140mph PI speedo, PI rear sway bar, '00 PI booster/MC, 95-97 front spindles, '99 front hub bearings/brakes, '92-'94 front upper control arms/ball-joints, 3.73's with rebuilt traction-lok, '09 PI rear disc swap, '96 Mustang GT wheels with 235/55R17's.

    Comment

      #17
      The AOD is stronger than a C4 is if its built right. The trick is finding someone that knows how to make one work. Anyone can make a C4 work it seems, though "working" is a broad category. I'm not sure I have ever felt one shift. The RPM drops at various points, but they don't actually seem to shift so much as slush from 1 to 3, sometimes directly without stopping at 2. They also blow up. A lot. I've seen people smoke C4's behind stock 300 I6's in trucks more than once. hell I knew someone who went through 3 of them in a Fairmont with a 200 before he put some gigantic cooler on it to keep it from dying. THey do not impress me in the least.
      86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
      5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

      91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

      1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

      Originally posted by phayzer5
      I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

      Everything looks like voodoo if you don't understand how it works

      Comment

        #18
        A poorly built/maintained high mileage trans is never good. A properly built AOD will cost well over 2k plus an expensive converter. You can get a mean C4 for a fraction of the price. FWIW, pretty much nobody anywhere ever adjusts the bands on their C4 and they end up generating a crap-ton of heat and shift poorly until it dies. Valve body warpage is a problem on the C4's as well. I've experienced it in AOD's also and it can cause some interesting issues due to a loss of/lack of correct pressure. Neither transmission was ever designed to handle much torque and both have their weaknesses. Unfortunately, the AOD never gained much popularity among the racing crowd...hence the rediculous price of building one to be next to bulletproof.
        '85 CV coupe- 351W, T5-Z, FAST Ez-Efi, shorty headers, 2.5" duals with knock off flowmasters, 2.5" Impala tails, seriously worked GT-40 irons, Comp 265DEH cam, 1.7rr's, Mallory HyFire 6A, Taylor ThunderVolt 50 10.4mm wires, 75mm t/b, 3G alt swap, 140mph PI speedo, PI rear sway bar, '00 PI booster/MC, 95-97 front spindles, '99 front hub bearings/brakes, '92-'94 front upper control arms/ball-joints, 3.73's with rebuilt traction-lok, '09 PI rear disc swap, '96 Mustang GT wheels with 235/55R17's.

        Comment

          #19
          dunno, I don't like them. Not enough gears besides. Fuel is too pricey to give up that overdrive.
          86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
          5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

          91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

          1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

          Originally posted by phayzer5
          I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

          Everything looks like voodoo if you don't understand how it works

          Comment

            #20
            Originally posted by gadget73 View Post
            dunno, I don't like them. Not enough gears besides. Fuel is too pricey to give up that overdrive.
            Lol, I can agree with you on that!
            '85 CV coupe- 351W, T5-Z, FAST Ez-Efi, shorty headers, 2.5" duals with knock off flowmasters, 2.5" Impala tails, seriously worked GT-40 irons, Comp 265DEH cam, 1.7rr's, Mallory HyFire 6A, Taylor ThunderVolt 50 10.4mm wires, 75mm t/b, 3G alt swap, 140mph PI speedo, PI rear sway bar, '00 PI booster/MC, 95-97 front spindles, '99 front hub bearings/brakes, '92-'94 front upper control arms/ball-joints, 3.73's with rebuilt traction-lok, '09 PI rear disc swap, '96 Mustang GT wheels with 235/55R17's.

            Comment

              #21
              If you want a strong transmission to handle the power of a built 351, weight of the wagon and get decent mileage, save up and swap in a TKO or T56. Forget these auto slushboxes that sap power.
              88 Town Car (wrecked, for sale)
              Walker OEM duals with muffler deletes

              Comment

                #22
                No clutch must be an automatic
                '88' MGM wagon (mine and my sons toy)
                "60" chrysler New Yorker (my project)
                "78" Chevy 1 Ton P/U (yard horse)
                "01" Ford Explorer (wifes DD)
                "93" Chevy Suburban (my DD)

                Comment

                  #23
                  Do you have any specific power or E.T. goals? Planning on 1/4 or 1/8 mi? If you're just looking for low maintenance, reliable fun then I wouldn't get too aggressive with the engine build...but if you know how to properly make band adjustments and have a trans pressure gauge, you could go C4. There are ways to beef up an AOD on the cheap if you have the tools and mechanical know-how. Just don't expect either to last forever. A C6 is tough as nails, but sucks down a LOT of power before passing it down the line and it's a big heavy PITA to install. A buddy of mine had one in his '79 F350 that was the original transmission to that truck and with a mild shift kit and 1800rpm converter, it withstood the abuse of a 580hp 472 daily without issue. Just keep in mind, anything with a pile of miles will not last long.

                  Good luck!
                  -Don
                  '85 CV coupe- 351W, T5-Z, FAST Ez-Efi, shorty headers, 2.5" duals with knock off flowmasters, 2.5" Impala tails, seriously worked GT-40 irons, Comp 265DEH cam, 1.7rr's, Mallory HyFire 6A, Taylor ThunderVolt 50 10.4mm wires, 75mm t/b, 3G alt swap, 140mph PI speedo, PI rear sway bar, '00 PI booster/MC, 95-97 front spindles, '99 front hub bearings/brakes, '92-'94 front upper control arms/ball-joints, 3.73's with rebuilt traction-lok, '09 PI rear disc swap, '96 Mustang GT wheels with 235/55R17's.

                  Comment

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