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Upper/lower explorer intake swap sensors not matching up, need help!

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    #16
    You can make a lopo run pretty good. It will never be "quick", but low 16's/ high 15's are obtainable. I don't think people give them enough credit.
    2020 F250 - 7.3 4x4 CCSB STX 3.55's - BAKFlip MX4
    2005 Grand Marquis GS - Marauder sway bars, Marauder exhaust, KYB's
    2003 Marauder - Trilogy # 8, JLT, kooks, 2.5" exhaust, 4.10's/31 spline, widened rear's, metco's, addco's, ridetech's 415hp/381tq
    1987 Colony Park - 03+ frame swap, blown Gen II Coyote, 6R80, ridetechs, stainless works, absolute money pit. WIP

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      #17
      Originally posted by pantera77 View Post
      You can make a lopo run pretty good. It will never be "quick", but low 16's/ high 15's are obtainable. I don't think people give them enough credit.
      My cousin's husband's brother was running 14s in a little VW Golf, I told him my car could probably run 17/18 (I was only guessing, 3-4 seconds would actually put it quite some distance behind something running a 14), he looked at it and said "yeah right, probably like 25". Since I wasn't actually knowledgeable on the subject there was no debate.
      Then I found this guy's thread: http://www.grandmarq.net/vb/showthre...toria-Slicktop claiming 17s with a stock 88, looks like my estimate actually wasn't off according to what this guy says in his thread.
      Vic

      ~ 1989 MGM LS Colony Park - Large Marge
      ~ 1998 MGM LS - new DD
      ~ 1991 MGM LS "The Scab"
      ~ 1991 MGM GS "The Ice Car"

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        #18
        Originally posted by VicCrownVic View Post
        My cousin's husband's brother was running 14s in a little VW Golf, I told him my car could probably run 17/18 (I was only guessing, 3-4 seconds would actually put it quite some distance behind something running a 14), he looked at it and said "yeah right, probably like 25". Since I wasn't actually knowledgeable on the subject there was no debate.
        Then I found this guy's thread: http://www.grandmarq.net/vb/showthre...toria-Slicktop claiming 17s with a stock 88, looks like my estimate actually wasn't off according to what this guy says in his thread.
        No, your pretty much dead on. I've watched multiple bone stock SEFI cars run high 17's all day. Low 17's - high 18's is actually spot on.
        2020 F250 - 7.3 4x4 CCSB STX 3.55's - BAKFlip MX4
        2005 Grand Marquis GS - Marauder sway bars, Marauder exhaust, KYB's
        2003 Marauder - Trilogy # 8, JLT, kooks, 2.5" exhaust, 4.10's/31 spline, widened rear's, metco's, addco's, ridetech's 415hp/381tq
        1987 Colony Park - 03+ frame swap, blown Gen II Coyote, 6R80, ridetechs, stainless works, absolute money pit. WIP

        Comment


          #19
          Originally posted by pantera77 View Post
          No, your pretty much dead on. I've watched multiple bone stock SEFI cars run high 17's all day. Low 17's - high 18's is actually spot on.
          I figured stock times would have to be at the worst 20s for a quarter mile, but having never ran any car ever in any race I wasn't about to argue even though I knew there was no way 25 was realistic unless the driver really sucked or something wasn't working quite right on the car. I just thought to myself that I would look on here and see if anyone had their stock times listed, after all you need to know what you're improving from to know that you're making any progress with mods so I figured someone had to have put a stock box through the quarter mile and shared their times, and Zack did.
          Vic

          ~ 1989 MGM LS Colony Park - Large Marge
          ~ 1998 MGM LS - new DD
          ~ 1991 MGM LS "The Scab"
          ~ 1991 MGM GS "The Ice Car"

          Comment


            #20
            Originally posted by pantera77 View Post
            You can make a lopo run pretty good. It will never be "quick", but low 16's/ high 15's are obtainable. I don't think people give them enough credit.
            Battlewagon ran good last April. THough it's not exactly a lopo. Must surprise people every once in a while though.


            Packman

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              #21
              Originally posted by pantera77 View Post
              No, your pretty much dead on. I've watched multiple bone stock SEFI cars run high 17's all day. Low 17's - high 18's is actually spot on.
              my siver 88 MGM, ran consistent 17.2-17.1 qtr mile times with dual exhaust, 2.73 gear and 225/70/15 tires
              2003 Town Car Signature - 3.27 RAR, Dual exhaust and J-mod - SOLD 9/2011
              89 Crown Victoria LX HPP -- SOLD 9/2010
              88 Grand Marquis LS - The Original -- Totaled 5/2006


              I rebuild AOD/AODE/4R70W/4R75E transmissions....Check out my Facebook page: https://www.facebook.com/pages/North...48414635312478

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                #22
                Originally posted by packman View Post
                Battlewagon ran good last April. Though it's not exactly a lopo. Must surprise people every once in a while though.


                Packman
                It's a bone stock 248k mile lopo longblock. Stock lopo e6 heads, stock lopo cam, ect... It's still a lopo in my book.

                Originally posted by 88grandmarq View Post
                my siver 88 MGM, ran consistent 17.2-17.1 qtr mile times with dual exhaust, 2.73 gear and 225/70/15 tires
                Sounds right to me. That car was in good shape too which I'm sure helped.
                2020 F250 - 7.3 4x4 CCSB STX 3.55's - BAKFlip MX4
                2005 Grand Marquis GS - Marauder sway bars, Marauder exhaust, KYB's
                2003 Marauder - Trilogy # 8, JLT, kooks, 2.5" exhaust, 4.10's/31 spline, widened rear's, metco's, addco's, ridetech's 415hp/381tq
                1987 Colony Park - 03+ frame swap, blown Gen II Coyote, 6R80, ridetechs, stainless works, absolute money pit. WIP

                Comment


                  #23
                  Alright.. well it looks like after the work something didn't match up right on the lower end and I'm 90% sure its the lower intake leaking right now, and not the rear main seal.. it just looks that way because the lower is leaking all over the place. What gives it away is the oil on the plugs & wires around the trans. So I guess I'm going to go back in. I'm thinking of replacing the injectors since the ones in my car right now were painted (I'm assuming it was a 'injector service' my grandparents got) and the IAC which looked pretty bad. Any suggestions are welcomed. I think this time I'm going to use sealer instead of the rubber gaskets.
                  1991 Grand Marquis LS blog- Mayhem; two 12" Kenwood 800w subs, True dual catback, BBK shorties, cherrybombs, steel top, L/H hella lights, 18" AR Torq thrust, Trans cooler, class 3 hitch kit, more on the way...

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                    #24
                    Use the rubber gaskets. They don't leak if installed properly. Should go on dry with a dab of sealer in the corners only. This is assuming its the good kind that are molded to fit over the end walls. If its just the flat strip, go for better gaskets. The FelPro Permadry gaskets live up to their name, but they are not the cheapest thing you can get.
                    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
                    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

                    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

                    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

                    Originally posted by phayzer5
                    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

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                      #25
                      The gaskets I use were like blue rubber that did have a lip that went over. Perhaps I installed it wrong though, it was quite a pain getting the lower back in. Is there a certain way you are supposed to slide it back in?
                      1991 Grand Marquis LS blog- Mayhem; two 12" Kenwood 800w subs, True dual catback, BBK shorties, cherrybombs, steel top, L/H hella lights, 18" AR Torq thrust, Trans cooler, class 3 hitch kit, more on the way...

                      Comment


                        #26
                        As long as you made proper clearance room for it, you should be able to just put it on straight down. Much easier with the distributor pulled, and zip tie the throttle bracket away. You can also use long cut bolts as guide pins when setting it down.

                        I use the gaskets you're talking about. I use sealant on the side non rubber gaskets and sealant in the 4 corners. Then torque it down following the bolt pattern. Then heat it up and torque it to the warmed specs.
                        1985 LTD Crown Victoria - Currently restoring after she caught fire! CFI to SEFI to Carb swap, all custom wiring, Duraspark 2 ignition, Motorcraft 2100 Carb, slicktop, Shorty headers dumped before rear axle, 140 Speedo, 3G alt, And currently building an engine for her.

                        2000 Lincoln Town Car Signature Series - 165XXX, PI intake swap , 30 MPG Easy on the Highway, All options except dual exhaust. Currently looking for 2 front seats: Heated, Memory, and Light Graphite color!!

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                          #27
                          What he said. Use guide bolts and just set it straight down. It keeps the side gaskets in place too doing it that way.
                          86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
                          5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

                          91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

                          1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

                          Originally posted by phayzer5
                          I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

                          Comment


                            #28
                            Originally posted by Stealthlead View Post
                            The gaskets I use were like blue rubber that did have a lip that went over. Perhaps I installed it wrong though, it was quite a pain getting the lower back in. Is there a certain way you are supposed to slide it back in?
                            The very first time I did lower intake gaskets on my old 91 I had the back seal slide out. Ever since then I use guide bolts and have never once had an issue.
                            2020 F250 - 7.3 4x4 CCSB STX 3.55's - BAKFlip MX4
                            2005 Grand Marquis GS - Marauder sway bars, Marauder exhaust, KYB's
                            2003 Marauder - Trilogy # 8, JLT, kooks, 2.5" exhaust, 4.10's/31 spline, widened rear's, metco's, addco's, ridetech's 415hp/381tq
                            1987 Colony Park - 03+ frame swap, blown Gen II Coyote, 6R80, ridetechs, stainless works, absolute money pit. WIP

                            Comment


                              #29
                              Can someone explain to me what you mean by guide bolts?
                              1991 Grand Marquis LS blog- Mayhem; two 12" Kenwood 800w subs, True dual catback, BBK shorties, cherrybombs, steel top, L/H hella lights, 18" AR Torq thrust, Trans cooler, class 3 hitch kit, more on the way...

                              Comment


                                #30
                                Originally posted by Stealthlead View Post
                                Can someone explain to me what you mean by guide bolts?
                                Yep

                                You can take an old set of intake bolts, I think I used 4 of those long upper bolts not sure. Anyway you just get 4 same thread same size bolts as the lower intake bolts just get them longer so they will stick up through the intake so you can take them out.

                                You cut the heads of the bolts off and use them to guide the intake Ito place. Also holds the gaskets still on the heads. Once the intake is down, just thread in some actual intake bolts and take the guide bolts out. Don't put them in tightly gotta be able to remove them by your fingers since they have no heads.

                                Ideally something like this:



                                I think you can purchase actual pins, but cut bolts work just the same
                                1985 LTD Crown Victoria - Currently restoring after she caught fire! CFI to SEFI to Carb swap, all custom wiring, Duraspark 2 ignition, Motorcraft 2100 Carb, slicktop, Shorty headers dumped before rear axle, 140 Speedo, 3G alt, And currently building an engine for her.

                                2000 Lincoln Town Car Signature Series - 165XXX, PI intake swap , 30 MPG Easy on the Highway, All options except dual exhaust. Currently looking for 2 front seats: Heated, Memory, and Light Graphite color!!

                                Comment

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