Well I have heard that the H.O. cam is not to bad for a 302 or 351 buildup, but I was curious who sells it? and what are the differences in the SD cam MASS Air cam and the cobra cams I hear The SD is the best one really?
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The H.O. cam is generally taken from a used HO engine, like an 87(?)-95 mustang. To buy it new/aftermarket would be a bit silly, as for the price you could get a Comp or other performance brand cam that would probably yield superior results.
85 4 door 351 Civi Crown Victoria - Summer daily driver, sleeper in the making, and wildly inappropriate autocross machine
160KMs 600cfm holley, shorty headers, 2.5" catted exhaust, 255/295 tires, cop shocks, cop swaybars, underdrive pulley, 2.73L gears.
waiting for install: 3.27's, Poly bushings, boxed rear arms, 2500 stall converter, ported e7's, etc
06 Mazda 3 hatch 2.3L 5AT (winter beater that cost more than my summer car)
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"In science it is either physics or stamp collecting." - Ernest Rutherford
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If you are interested I have a 1986 flat top piston HO cam from a mustang I am selling. they are roller engines so there is no wear, unless something breaks in a horrible manner."Shakedown"- 1991 Grand Marquis GS Dual exhaust, Magnaflow xl turbos, Rear anti sway bar, Outlaw 1 wheels, 43k miles
1985 GMC 1500
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There is a very slight difference between speed density HO cams and mass air cams, I think its something like 10 degrees less exhaust duration on the mass air cam, but a steeper ramp rate. Net result is supposed to be a wash, but unofficially the SD cams are supposed to have a little better low rpm performance.
The Cobra cam originally came from the 92 Tbird HO motor. It should make a little more low end torque than a regular HO cam. I'd actually like to try one in something.
'85-'88 5.0L HO cam specs:
lift figures directly on the cam lobe. multiply by 1.6 to get lift at the valves with stock 1.6 rockers.
.278" intake cam lift
.278" exhaust cam lift
266º intake duration
266º exhaust duration
intake valve opens 17º BTDC
intake valves closes 69º ABDC
exhaust valve opens 67º BBDC
exhaust valve closes 19º ATDC
36º overlap
I had the other cam specs somewhere but I can't find them now86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley
91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry
1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal
Originally posted by phayzer5
I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers
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Thanks guys, my brothers dampner went out in his 90 GT mustang and it snapped the crank so I got two motors to build this summer on a budget, one for my vic and one for him just playing around with the explorer motors vs roller cammed 351windsors 94-98?, this will mostly be junkyard builds with upgrades down the road, so Im looking for good parts combos on the cheap to get god power from these engines.
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I have always been told 87-88 HO cams were 276/266 while 86, 89-95 are 266/266. dont know how much truth there is to it, but I've also always heard the 87-88 HO is the best of the bunch
you have to change quite a few parts to go 351, not necesarily budget
not much power from a long rod combo, by the time you buy pistons, rods, and machine work; you might as well get a crank and take the cubes from a stroker; not necesarily budget either
but it all depends on what budget is, I've seen people get upset over $100
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Originally posted by gadget73 View Post
The Cobra cam originally came from the 92 Tbird HO motor. It should make a little more low end torque than a regular HO cam. I'd actually like to try one in something.
Originally posted by 89crownlx View PostOh and a long rod combo may be in the future which is why I;m looking at these milder cams btw.
For discussions on performance modifications to the 5.0/5.8 engine. Includes engine swaps and whatever else you can think of.
Oddly enough, I've been quietly collecting a few parts for a P-headed 351W long-rod build. I hesitate to mention anything, simply because when I do mention something, something invariable goes hideously wrong, and I end up having to start all over again. Thus having said something, I expect something else to go wrong now.
At any rate, A dished 331 stroker piston would provide around a static 10:1 compression ratio (before the cam is figured in, so far as cylinder pressure bleedoff is concerned), and with a custom camshaft, I'm really interested in seeing where this motor could go....Last edited by Guest; 05-05-2010, 12:52 PM.
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Originally posted by jayh View Post
not much power from a long rod combo, by the time you buy pistons, rods, and machine work; you might as well get a crank and take the cubes from a stroker.........
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Originally posted by The Auntie Christ View PostThe purpose behind the long-rod motor (for me, anyway), is to make a smooth, well-rounded 351W that produces around 350-400 hp, using as many factory parts as possible. The iron-headed long-rod 351W that I built was really smooth, revved quickly, got really good gas mileage, and pulled everywhere. If I wish to stick with the factory IRS in my T-bird, without having to do too many mods to it, this would be the perfect engine for the car, especially if I stick with the AOD layout. The 408 would be a better choice, but I'm a spoiled sissy who enjoys a smooth yet somewhat-frightening car to drive....and I would like to try to do it with a $60 set of P heads.
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