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oil leak pt.2 (lower intake manifold)

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    #16
    You want the Fel Pro set, FEL-MS93334. All the gaskets you need are in there, the blue squiggly things are the front and rear seals. It should also have the O ring for the distributor. Change that too.

    I'd do valve covers just because you're there. Have to pull all that crap apart again to do them so might as well. Only 12 more bolts or whatever it is. I'd go for the FelPro Perma-Dry valve cover gaskets, or some other that are the rubber over steel type. The cork ones will start leaking again eventually.
    86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
    5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

    91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

    1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

    Originally posted by phayzer5
    I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

    Comment


      #17
      Originally posted by DuceAnAHalf
      I did not use any gaskets under the manifold. I just used a thick bead (about 3/16") of RTV. Did the same on my brothers 302. No leaks, Edelbrock even recomends to not use gaskets, jsut a thick bead of RTV.


      I didnt use gaskets either, the thick bead of RTV worked great for me too. No leaks. To see how thick the bead has to be just set the manifold on the motor with the intake gaskets on it and look how big the gap is.

      2009 Ford F-350 6.4 powerstroke diesel. 1977 Ford F-150 built 300 six, 5 speed trans. 1976 MG MGB roadster, 359w, t5 5 speed. 1996 Kawasaki ninja ZX6R.
      My rod is glowing, my bead is clean, my middle name is acetylene

      Comment


        #18
        lets see, you guys are only talking about da gasket between da upper and lower right? u suggest to not use a gasket between da upper and lower, instead just use silicone right. if i do use da gaskets, wat thickness?

        when replacing da squiggly(rear and front) seals where exactly are they? where can i find them because i doubt i can find them easily wit all dat mess i have there. of course im gonna clean it up but still i wanna know where to look.

        i know where da O ring goes, but wat about dat other lil weird looking seal wit 2 holes and 2 smaller holes. where does dat go installed?

        Comment


          #19
          Originally posted by ltdcrwnvic
          lets see, you guys are only talking about da gasket between da upper and lower right? u suggest to not use a gasket between da upper and lower, instead just use silicone right. if i do use da gaskets, wat thickness?

          when replacing da squiggly(rear and front) seals where exactly are they? where can i find them because i doubt i can find them easily wit all dat mess i have there. of course im gonna clean it up but still i wanna know where to look.

          i know where da O ring goes, but wat about dat other lil weird looking seal wit 2 holes and 2 smaller holes. where does dat go installed?

          No, I am talking about the front and rear seals(squiggly thangs), use silicone on them. Dont use silicone between your upeer and lower manifolds.

          2009 Ford F-350 6.4 powerstroke diesel. 1977 Ford F-150 built 300 six, 5 speed trans. 1976 MG MGB roadster, 359w, t5 5 speed. 1996 Kawasaki ninja ZX6R.
          My rod is glowing, my bead is clean, my middle name is acetylene

          Comment


            #20
            I think the 2 hole gasket i for the EGR

            2009 Ford F-350 6.4 powerstroke diesel. 1977 Ford F-150 built 300 six, 5 speed trans. 1976 MG MGB roadster, 359w, t5 5 speed. 1996 Kawasaki ninja ZX6R.
            My rod is glowing, my bead is clean, my middle name is acetylene

            Comment


              #21
              its for the IAC valve. No idea why they include that in an intake set, no reason to remove the IAC.
              86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
              5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

              91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

              1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

              Originally posted by phayzer5
              I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

              Comment


                #22
                Yeah, I'm not to familiar with efi, thanks for correcting me mang!


                Heres a pic I found to help you understand what we are talking about, This guy isnt using the front and rear seals, instead its just silcone.


                2009 Ford F-350 6.4 powerstroke diesel. 1977 Ford F-150 built 300 six, 5 speed trans. 1976 MG MGB roadster, 359w, t5 5 speed. 1996 Kawasaki ninja ZX6R.
                My rod is glowing, my bead is clean, my middle name is acetylene

                Comment


                  #23
                  merc, gadget, thanx alot guys. thats exactly wat i needed to know to start doing it myself. now dat i know, first thing tomorow morning ill get started on it. u guys think checkers carries that pack wit all those gaskets/seals. or are they gonna try and screw me by buying each thing seperately.

                  Comment


                    #24
                    Go get dat shit done man. Good luck.
                    Nick
                    88 Colony Park LS
                    G-pa's old car, but he's cruisin around heaven in his 69 wagon now
                    Future plans:Semi HO conversion, or Explorer motor swap, shift kit, PI springs and sway bars, KYB-GR2 shocks

                    Comment


                      #25
                      one more thing, when cleanin all dat gunk there, if any of degreaser gets into da engine, will it hurt it any? i mean it dry pretty damn quick but if it hurts it, i will try and not get too much into it. how about any gasoline? i usually use some to clean my parts before putting them back on, can i also use gas to clean some surfaces?
                      thanx alot for all da help guys. i will get it done and i will take some pics wit all my intake gutted out.

                      Comment


                        #26
                        I would think that it wouldnt hurt anything as long as you dont spray the degreaser/gas on the cam bearings and you should flush out your oil and put some new stuff in when you are done and about ready to fire it up.

                        2009 Ford F-350 6.4 powerstroke diesel. 1977 Ford F-150 built 300 six, 5 speed trans. 1976 MG MGB roadster, 359w, t5 5 speed. 1996 Kawasaki ninja ZX6R.
                        My rod is glowing, my bead is clean, my middle name is acetylene

                        Comment


                          #27
                          here it is nice and clean, it was a bitch and took forever to clean. i didnt know it was this beautiful at all :P
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                          does this mean dat my car is a 86 and not an 87? or just da year when da motor was built?
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                          when i was cleaning it, i was wondering what this bolt was for or if sumthing else can be plugged into it, water temp gauge maybe? it was near #4 in da back left
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                          it looks mean doesnt it? i was thinking, after cleaning it all, how would it look, da whole upper intake, blacked out? i havent seen any intakes on here or on cardomain all blacked out. and just leave da "5.0 EFI" nice and silver so it can stand out more.... opinions?
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                          P.O.S. these cute lil things here arent very nice at all lol, they were a bit hard to take off and cutting da fuel lines to take em off wasnt cool, now i know wat gas tastes like, literally lol. how can i check if all injectors are operational? any way to test em while they're out? i didnt have any problems with them before but i was just wondering
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                          more pics 2morow gentlemen..... so far so good!!!

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                            #28
                            good worrk. i mean da car come apart good.

                            Comment


                              #29
                              Originally posted by ltdcrwnvic
                              does this mean dat my car is a 86 and not an 87? or just da year when da motor was built?
                              That is only an indicator of the first model year (not calendar year) that part was intended to be used. With that casting number, it could have been cast in 1985.

                              You could definitely use that hole for a water temp guage.

                              Comment


                                #30
                                You cut the fuel lines? Why?! Those springlock connectors will come apart with the correct tool. Never a good idea to cut those lines.
                                86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
                                5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

                                91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

                                1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

                                Originally posted by phayzer5
                                I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

                                Comment

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