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major oil leak......!!!

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    #16
    What year is it? How many miles?


    '90 Mercury Grand Marquis GS
    Baseline 5.0L numbers totally stock, 123 rwhp, 239 rwtq
    5.4L swap coming soon.

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      #17
      well i know where da oil is dripping from but i cant find da source of it. it drips from around da starter bolts. it runs down around da starter and theres another leak on da drivers side from dat plate dats slightly open. i was told it was maybe da rear main seal. but now im thinking it could be sumthing else. when checking da oil dipstick, why is da oil all da way up da tube? it even seems dat it might be splashing up there and leakin from up there too. i was thinking da rear main seal, oil pan gasket. da valve covers i dont think cuz i already checked those and they're nice and dry. hope its not da rear main seal. i dont think i have da necessary tools to change it and by dat i mean i wouldn't be able to take out da tranny. if its dat oil pan i think i can just jack up da motor and take out da double sump pan. if its da rear main seal, wats a reasonable price to get dat fixed? this one guy already said $260 and they'll change front and rear seals and new gasket while they're at it. wat do you guys think?

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        #18
        My head hurts... :drug:
        '89 Ford LTD Crown Vic - '92 Ford F-150 Custom -
        '95 Ford Bronco XL -

        sigpic :rebel:

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          #19
          87 ltd crown victoria, da speedometer reads 44,737 which im guessin is more like 144,737.

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            #20
            Originally posted by ltdcrwnvic
            87 ltd crown victoria, da speedometer reads 44,737 which im guessin is more like 144,737.
            What's on the title? If you don't know, you could do a carfax.com search just to be sure it's not "244,737".


            '90 Mercury Grand Marquis GS
            Baseline 5.0L numbers totally stock, 123 rwhp, 239 rwtq
            5.4L swap coming soon.

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              #21
              More likely to be rear intake seal than rear main seal. Look behind the motor. If the top of the transmission is all slimy, its the intake. Only thing, you change that intake seal, and the motor might start knocking. Happened to me, happened to 88grandmarq, and I know Scott has had a few 5.0 motors that start to knock after doing an intake seal. The guy who I bought my car from told me the original owner said to not fix the oil leak. I fixed it. 3 days later the motor was shot.
              86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
              5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

              91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

              1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

              Originally posted by phayzer5
              I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

              Everything looks like voodoo if you don't understand how it works

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                #22
                probably just valve covers
                and what's this da shit mang!

                1986 lincoln towncar signature series. 5.0 HO with thumper performance ported e7 heads, 1.7 roller rockers, warm air intake, 65mm throttle body, 1/2" intake spacer, ported intakes, 3.73 rear with trac lock, 98-02 front brake conversion, 92-97 rear disc conversion, 1" rear swaybar, 1 3/16" front swaybar, 16" wheels and tires, loud ass stereo system, badass cb, best time to date 15.94 at 87 mph. lots of mods in the works 221.8 rwhp 278 rwt
                2006 Lincoln Town Car Signature. Stock for now
                1989 Ford F-250 4x4 much much more to come, sefi converted so far.
                1986 Toyota pickup with LSC wheels and 225/60/16 tires.
                2008 Hyundai Elantra future Revcon toad
                1987 TriBurner and 1986 Alaska stokers keeping me warm. (and some pesky oil heat)

                please be patient, rebuilding an empire!

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                  #23
                  Originally posted by lincolnmania
                  what's this da shit mang!
                  I was waitin for that
                  Nick
                  88 Colony Park LS
                  G-pa's old car, but he's cruisin around heaven in his 69 wagon now
                  Future plans:Semi HO conversion, or Explorer motor swap, shift kit, PI springs and sway bars, KYB-GR2 shocks

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                    #24
                    If it is the rear main seal, you will have to drop the transmission to replace it.
                    Save a seal, club a liberal.

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                      #25
                      alright, ill start dismantling the car this week to see wat it really is. i dont wanna take it to a shop and they fix da rear/frong and oil pan gasket and seals and then it'll still leak cuz it was sumthing else. ill take off da upper intake and all da wiring harness's there to take a better look. da valve covers are a definite no so intake gasket, or rear main seal. has to be one of those. da oil sending unit was dry, no mess near it so i gotta look in deeper behind da motor. ill keep you guys updated. i appreciate everything guys.

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                        #26
                        had to work this week so i dropped off da car at this shop. after inspection, they said it was the rear main seal and oil pan gasket. after parts and labor $350-$360 is the price. since, like you guys said, da trans is gonna have to be lowered for da seal and motor lifted for da oil pan, so i will HAVE to take it to them. im going to have to start building a major tool collection so i wont have to be takin my cv to others to be touched and fondled (lol). anything else you guys recommend me have done to my car while da trans is lowered and so forth? on another note, da 2nd gear shifting over to 3rd gear, da car kinda stutters and eventually kicks into third. is this related to da problem above? need to change da trans oil filter? or just need to service da trans completely?

                        if its not one thing, its another. but hey, i love my box!!!!

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                          #27
                          my bad i thought it was the trans pan

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                            #28
                            well the oil pump is in that oil pan cheap insurance to replace that and the pump driveshaft no? er i mean

                            da pump in da pan, and da shaft man

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                              #29
                              gadget, i checked behind da intake and right where you said it would be slimy, it is. right above da trans is slimy and well im guessing you're right. if i do change da rear intake seal, will i most likely lose my engine? since you said ur engine was shot after bout 3 days. wat should i do then?

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                                #30
                                Originally posted by gadget73
                                Only thing, you change that intake seal, and the motor might start knocking. Happened to me, happened to 88grandmarq, and I know Scott has had a few 5.0 motors that start to knock after doing an intake seal. The guy who I bought my car from told me the original owner said to not fix the oil leak. I fixed it. 3 days later the motor was shot.
                                Change your oil after removing the intake and cleaning the surfaces. Flush from the top with your drain plug open. The only way you can hurt your motor from a gasket change is by shitting all over the engine when you clean it up and plugging your oil pump pickup. An intake gasket is a basic job, not rocket science.
                                I have changed plenty of intake gaskets on OLD 302's and never plugged a pickup. My Capri was thick with sludge under the intake on the block between the lifters. I used a putty knife and solvent to clean it up and then just flushed with oil and drained all of the crud out of the pan. I never pulled the pan. The motor went another 100,000 or so miles before I swapped in an Explorer motor because I wanted more power.

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