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    #16
    Originally posted by monterey1962
    -brass nuts for header to H-pipe studs

    How come u want brass nuts? I just used regular hardware store steel nuts for mine.

    2009 Ford F-350 6.4 powerstroke diesel. 1977 Ford F-150 built 300 six, 5 speed trans. 1976 MG MGB roadster, 359w, t5 5 speed. 1996 Kawasaki ninja ZX6R.
    My rod is glowing, my bead is clean, my middle name is acetylene

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      #17
      so what did you guys do to the drivers side to install the header there? i was plannin on takin off the upper intake, and it seems like the air compressor too. any suggestions

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        #18
        Just the air box....None of the actual intake manifold needs to be removed. Same with the A/C compressor...no reason to take it off.
        Builder/Owner of Badass Panther Wagons

        Busy maintaining a fleet of Fords

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          #19
          Yeah, no need to remove the AC compressor. You might have an easier time if you pull the rubber air lines out for the smog pump plumbing but thats it. I'd also disconnect the vacuum harness that goes from the engine to the firewall so you don't get the header tangled up in that. It takes a little wiggle work to get them in there, but it does fit. Driver's side is a piece of cake to fit.

          The reason for the brass nuts is so you can get them apart again. Brass won't seize to the steel stud. If you slather it up with anti-sieze compund it'll help some too tho.

          If you're running stock cat pipes and want to mate them to the headers, you'll need to modify the flanges to bolt up. Ideally you should probably get the "flare" on the pipes to the cats extended and have the flange behind it replaced with a larger one toat matches the ball socket on the header. You can cut the end out of the flanges and get them on there, but its a pain in the ass. Mine fit, but barely and it always leaked on the driver's side because of my poor O2 sensor placement.
          86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
          5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

          91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

          1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

          Originally posted by phayzer5
          I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

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            #20
            im such an idiot, i meant to say the passengers side, the drivers side seems pretty easy, unlike the passengers side, all those objects in the way. so wat do you guys suggest for the passengers side

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              #21
              Cats I dont no stinkin cats
              Last edited by turbo2256b; 06-06-2006, 03:38 AM.
              Scars are tatoos of the fearless

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                #22
                me neither, i only have the cat covers on but nothing is actually in there. free flow exhaust til it gets to my flowmasters back there lol

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                  #23
                  For the passenger side...just move the vacuum lines out of the way. There is enough room.
                  Builder/Owner of Badass Panther Wagons

                  Busy maintaining a fleet of Fords

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                    #24
                    mrltd, wat kinda mufflers u got? i have flowmasters and was wondering what difference it would make with the headers on? how does your exhaust sound wit ur bbks?

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                      #25
                      If you're running stock size downpipes, its going to make only marginal difference in sound and performance. And like he says, there is enough room to get the header in there, but you'll have to play around with it to get it in place. I did mine this weekend with the AC in place. My air tube down to the cats is gone, and the smog pump is also gone. The air manifold to the back of the heads is still present tho.
                      86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
                      5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

                      91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

                      1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

                      Originally posted by phayzer5
                      I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

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                        #26
                        im not, im runnin, if i remember correctly 2.5 pipe from the cats back onto the flowmasters then more 2.5" and then ther 3" chrome tips

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                          #27
                          Headers really don't make much of a difference if any in noise.
                          Builder/Owner of Badass Panther Wagons

                          Busy maintaining a fleet of Fords

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                            #28
                            so its more of a performance thing huh. ive been told that it will make my vic sound a bit louder when accelerating and well a bit at idle too.

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                              #29
                              Man, I hope I can get this done in a couple days. Going to keep my 2" tailpipes and run 18" glasspacks. I'll have my exhaust shop put in the glasspacks and section between the H-pipe and glasspacks. I don't know if he'll have to cut the lower flanges off or not. Will have to wait and see.

                              I'm really curious to see if removing the 170,000+ mile converters makes a noticeable difference. The car really does feel like she's working harder than necessary.

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                                #30
                                hey monty, do your cargo springs lift ur box's rear up alot? i have some weight issues on mine, subs weigh ALOT and well its saggin. i know its off da topic but i was readin your gmls specs and i noticed your moog springs.

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