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    #1

    Mystery Solved

    Well.. the brake booster was the cause of all my problems, it appears. (Anyone care to correct me if I'm wrong about this causin the sputtering). I unplugged it from the booster and the car started to run alot better.. obviously can't plug it or the car will stall.. and the brakes are hard to push without it.

    Is there a way to fix it or am I going to have to drop 100 bux for a new one?
    1989 LTD Crown Victoria LX.
    -3.73s' w/ Track Loc - KYB GR-2 Shocks All Around - TRW HD Cargo Coils Rear - Moog Front Coils - 1 Inch Rear Sway Bar - 4.6 Lower Air Box- Stock Headers - Off Road H Pipe - Turbo Mufflers.

    4 Door Muscle
    Supermotors
    Tags: None
    #2
    By just unplugging the booster vac-line you're letting air that doesn't pass through the TB get sucked in your intake - not a good thing. I suggest that you remove that plastic fitting at the end of the booster vac-line and seal the line with a plug of correct size, your idle RPMs will drop (compared to open line) but the car should still run smoothly. If it starts sputtering again the problem is not in the brake booster.

    Comment

      #3
      Did you check the grommet on the brake booster? They tend to break down and start to leak. Mine did it, and I just gooped teh shit out of it with rtv blue and let it sit overnight.
      Pebbles-1968 Ford F250
      Pile of Junk! An Electronics Project Site (To get wet by)<---Clicky! NEW STUFF!!!!

      Comment

        #4
        When boosters fail, they create a vacuum leak. If you disconnect and plug the vac line to the booster, it would duplicate running conditions that a good brake booster would provide, ie no extra air into the motor. Usually unplugging a vac line will make the car run better because it idles it up. Sputtering at idle can be a lot of things, but usually I would think tune-up or fuel problems. If the plugs, wires, cap/rotor are in good condition, I would change the fuel filter if its not been done recently, and run some fuel injector cleaner through the system in case your injectors are clogged. You might also have a dead injector or they're dirty to the point where the spray pattern is so bad they don't let it fire properly.
        86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
        5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

        91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

        1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

        Originally posted by phayzer5
        I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

        Comment

          #5
          Well I'm not running the brake booster open. If I plug the wire the car stalls. It makes a big hissing noise when I step on the brake. I just did the fuel filter, cap and rotor, plugs and wires. How do I check if I have a bad injector? Just take them out and inspect them.

          Would the car start and run if I plugged the brake booster vac line and than started? It stalls if the car is running and I plug it with my finger.
          1989 LTD Crown Victoria LX.
          -3.73s' w/ Track Loc - KYB GR-2 Shocks All Around - TRW HD Cargo Coils Rear - Moog Front Coils - 1 Inch Rear Sway Bar - 4.6 Lower Air Box- Stock Headers - Off Road H Pipe - Turbo Mufflers.

          4 Door Muscle
          Supermotors

          Comment

            #6
            Well adjusting the TPS has made a big differnece. Lower RPM's while curising. The leak I did fix seems to have helped (or maybe it's all from the TPS). The air leak I hear when I step on the gas is prob from the booster, and when I step on the brake the rpms move a bit. I'm going to try and plug it and see how it runs.
            1989 LTD Crown Victoria LX.
            -3.73s' w/ Track Loc - KYB GR-2 Shocks All Around - TRW HD Cargo Coils Rear - Moog Front Coils - 1 Inch Rear Sway Bar - 4.6 Lower Air Box- Stock Headers - Off Road H Pipe - Turbo Mufflers.

            4 Door Muscle
            Supermotors

            Comment

              #7
              I FEEL YOUR PAIN, I am having the same rough idle and rough low RPM shudders, and for the past 2 weeks I have been unsuccessful in finding the problem. I have narrowed it down to a vacuum leak or a faulty injector though.
              1989 Lincoln Town Car - "Anabelle" - Original block, .030 over with SpeedPro pistons, rods fitted with ARP hardware, FRPP +volume oil pump, GT-40 3bar heads, Crane 1.72 rockers, 89' Fox cam, 93' Cobra lower intake, Explorer upper and 65mm TB, 93' Lightning EGR spacer, K&N intake kit from a 4.0L Ranger, 19lb/hr injectors w/ 87 Mark VII ECM, cat/smog deletes, Big Brake conversion, 3.55 K-Code Trac-Lok/Disc brake rear axle, CVPI LCA's w/1" sway bar in rear, wagon front sway bar, BBK 2.5" off-road H-Pipe, Flowmaster super 40s, HPP wheels, 3G alternator w/LMR.com wiring kit, gear reduction starter conversion, Best 1/4 time: 16.0 @ 85mph.

              Comment

                #8
                Me too. I have to see what's up with this Booster, it is the biggest leak of them all. I fixed the parking brake one, and all the others as well. It's eather the booster or the injector. I'm closing in on it
                1989 LTD Crown Victoria LX.
                -3.73s' w/ Track Loc - KYB GR-2 Shocks All Around - TRW HD Cargo Coils Rear - Moog Front Coils - 1 Inch Rear Sway Bar - 4.6 Lower Air Box- Stock Headers - Off Road H Pipe - Turbo Mufflers.

                4 Door Muscle
                Supermotors

                Comment

                  #9
                  If it's not the grommet, you will need to replace the booster AND master cylinder. The reason it doesn't run with it plugged is all the messing around with idle speed screw you did before to try and get it to run with the leaking booster. (which I mentioned in the IM's last night)
                  Builder/Owner of Badass Panther Wagons

                  Busy maintaining a fleet of Fords

                  Comment

                    #10
                    Well If i plugged it, than started it would it run? I plugged it while it was running and it stalled. Why would I need to replace the master as well?
                    1989 LTD Crown Victoria LX.
                    -3.73s' w/ Track Loc - KYB GR-2 Shocks All Around - TRW HD Cargo Coils Rear - Moog Front Coils - 1 Inch Rear Sway Bar - 4.6 Lower Air Box- Stock Headers - Off Road H Pipe - Turbo Mufflers.

                    4 Door Muscle
                    Supermotors

                    Comment

                      #11
                      No, it won't. Everything is out of whack. You will need to adjust the idle screw now for it to run. You have to replace the master cylinder because usually the cause of the booster dying is the master cylinder leaking into the booster and dissolving the diaphragm. Only replacing the booster also voids the warranty on the booster.
                      Builder/Owner of Badass Panther Wagons

                      Busy maintaining a fleet of Fords

                      Comment

                        #12
                        :stupid:

                        Those boosters suck too. Scott told me he did 3 on David's TC before he got a good one, and the one on GMGT's Vic was only a month old when it started to leak. They are also very annoying to replace. Ratchet flex head wrenches are going to be your savior for those upper nuts. If I have to replace mine, I'm going with a newer TC unit. Its a little bit smaller but should bolt up the same. Must investigate this, but not untill my 20 year old booster and MC die.
                        86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
                        5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

                        91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

                        1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

                        Originally posted by phayzer5
                        I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

                        Comment

                          #13
                          I'm planning a mustang booster and MC whenever mine die
                          Builder/Owner of Badass Panther Wagons

                          Busy maintaining a fleet of Fords

                          Comment

                            #14
                            Well here is the verdict. The car did start with it plugged. :-P! It ran like it had 50 more hp. Problem thouhg, gotta jump on the brakes to stop. (With both feet).

                            It's not the the gronment because I took the one off the truck (same motor mmm dual throttle body) and it still leaked.
                            1989 LTD Crown Victoria LX.
                            -3.73s' w/ Track Loc - KYB GR-2 Shocks All Around - TRW HD Cargo Coils Rear - Moog Front Coils - 1 Inch Rear Sway Bar - 4.6 Lower Air Box- Stock Headers - Off Road H Pipe - Turbo Mufflers.

                            4 Door Muscle
                            Supermotors

                            Comment

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