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HO conversion DONE......car won't start. Scott?

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    HO conversion DONE......car won't start. Scott?

    the car will not fire. I THINK it has spark, unless my distributor is way off. No exhaust note is heard when cranking. Only starter motor turns over. My thought is that its not getting any fuel, but why? I checked over all fluids and dummy stuff, firing order etc.......just not getting any fuel. I got some 19 lb injectors from scott maybe they needed cleaning who knows. Any ideas? Maybe its just because its Friday the 13th :bs:
    1989 Lincoln Town Car - "Anabelle" - Original block, .030 over with SpeedPro pistons, rods fitted with ARP hardware, FRPP +volume oil pump, GT-40 3bar heads, Crane 1.72 rockers, 89' Fox cam, 93' Cobra lower intake, Explorer upper and 65mm TB, 93' Lightning EGR spacer, K&N intake kit from a 4.0L Ranger, 19lb/hr injectors w/ 87 Mark VII ECM, cat/smog deletes, Big Brake conversion, 3.55 K-Code Trac-Lok/Disc brake rear axle, CVPI LCA's w/1" sway bar in rear, wagon front sway bar, BBK 2.5" off-road H-Pipe, Flowmaster super 40s, HPP wheels, 3G alternator w/LMR.com wiring kit, gear reduction starter conversion, Best 1/4 time: 16.0 @ 85mph.

    #2
    Pull the coil wire off of the dist and put a screwdriver in it. Then hold the screwdriver next to a good ground on the engine block and have someone crank over the engine. Make sure the handle of the screwdriver is well insulated or youll really know if you have spark! A quick test to see if you have any fuel, with the key in the on position take off the cap on the valve on the fuel rail. Use a screwdriver and depress the valve quickly, be careful as gas may spray out at you, if it does you have fuel. After that then I don't know.
    Chris - A 20th Century Man \m/ ^.^ \m/

    Comment


      #3
      I've seen fuel spray from the valve, but they didn't have the proper pressure to actually operate the car.
      2011 Mustang GT Premium, MT82, Kona/Saddle, HIDs, 3.73s, 19s, hood/side stripes, UPR 1.5" springs with adjustable panhard bar, and UMI solid LCAs and relocation brackets.
      1992 Explorer Eddie Bauer, slight lift, 34s, and A/C...
      1979 Bronco Custom, 351M/C6/NP205, 4" lift, 35s, lots of fender trimming.

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        #4
        Yeah, I know it needs around 40psi, but I don't know if he has a gauge.
        Chris - A 20th Century Man \m/ ^.^ \m/

        Comment


          #5
          nah I don't have a guage, could it be the distributor timing is soo off that it won't even spark the gas?
          1989 Lincoln Town Car - "Anabelle" - Original block, .030 over with SpeedPro pistons, rods fitted with ARP hardware, FRPP +volume oil pump, GT-40 3bar heads, Crane 1.72 rockers, 89' Fox cam, 93' Cobra lower intake, Explorer upper and 65mm TB, 93' Lightning EGR spacer, K&N intake kit from a 4.0L Ranger, 19lb/hr injectors w/ 87 Mark VII ECM, cat/smog deletes, Big Brake conversion, 3.55 K-Code Trac-Lok/Disc brake rear axle, CVPI LCA's w/1" sway bar in rear, wagon front sway bar, BBK 2.5" off-road H-Pipe, Flowmaster super 40s, HPP wheels, 3G alternator w/LMR.com wiring kit, gear reduction starter conversion, Best 1/4 time: 16.0 @ 85mph.

          Comment


            #6
            more than likely it's timing....check and make sure the dist is at the correct spot, it's easy to get it 180* off....also double check to make sure all the connectors are actually connected.
            Builder/Owner of Badass Panther Wagons

            Busy maintaining a fleet of Fords

            Comment


              #7
              Yeah, def. check your timing, and spark. You hooked up the computer, right? lol

              J/K about the computer thing lol
              Pebbles-1968 Ford F250
              Pile of Junk! An Electronics Project Site (To get wet by)<---Clicky! NEW STUFF!!!!

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                #8
                ok heres an update. I turned the key to ON and pushed in the fuel pressure relief on the rail and nothing came out at all. So could it be the fuel filter? It has been sitting for the majority of 3 and 1/2 months and even though I added fuel stabilizer it might've clogged it. Anything else that would cause no fuel in the rail at all?

                Comment


                  #9
                  Originally posted by Anonymous
                  ok heres an update. I turned the key to ON and pushed in the fuel pressure relief on the rail and nothing came out at all. So could it be the fuel filter? It has been sitting for the majority of 3 and 1/2 months and even though I added fuel stabilizer it might've clogged it. Anything else that would cause no fuel in the rail at all?
                  Originally posted by grandpaslincoln
                  You hooked up the computer, right?

                  Turn the key to ON and LISTEN CLOSELY for the fuel pump. If you hear it turn on, check your fuel gauge and make sure you have gas ( :evil: ). If you have fuel, try changing the filter. If you don't hear the pump turn on, look toward the front of the driver's side fender. There should be two black relays. Pull them and clean them THOROUGHLY. One is your fuel pump relay. I can't remember which is it, though. Clean it and try again.
                  2011 Mustang GT Premium, MT82, Kona/Saddle, HIDs, 3.73s, 19s, hood/side stripes, UPR 1.5" springs with adjustable panhard bar, and UMI solid LCAs and relocation brackets.
                  1992 Explorer Eddie Bauer, slight lift, 34s, and A/C...
                  1979 Bronco Custom, 351M/C6/NP205, 4" lift, 35s, lots of fender trimming.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    OK I have determined that the fuel pump is indeed working. I am going to change the fuel filter. I bought a new cap and rotor and I broke the number one tower off my old one and lined up the distributor as perfectly as I could so I don't think it's spark. We'll see what it does after a fuel filter.

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Guests can post in here? What the fu...
                      '89 Ford LTD Crown Vic - '92 Ford F-150 Custom -
                      '95 Ford Bronco XL -

                      sigpic :rebel:

                      Comment


                        #12
                        no its not a guest its me
                        1989 Lincoln Town Car - "Anabelle" - Original block, .030 over with SpeedPro pistons, rods fitted with ARP hardware, FRPP +volume oil pump, GT-40 3bar heads, Crane 1.72 rockers, 89' Fox cam, 93' Cobra lower intake, Explorer upper and 65mm TB, 93' Lightning EGR spacer, K&N intake kit from a 4.0L Ranger, 19lb/hr injectors w/ 87 Mark VII ECM, cat/smog deletes, Big Brake conversion, 3.55 K-Code Trac-Lok/Disc brake rear axle, CVPI LCA's w/1" sway bar in rear, wagon front sway bar, BBK 2.5" off-road H-Pipe, Flowmaster super 40s, HPP wheels, 3G alternator w/LMR.com wiring kit, gear reduction starter conversion, Best 1/4 time: 16.0 @ 85mph.

                        Comment


                          #13
                          I noticed a while back that guests can post anywhere.

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Most likely you have the engine timed incorrectly, probably 180 degees off (engine timed on the exhaust stroke, instead of the compression stroke). pull the passenger valve cover, rotate the engine until both valves are on #1 cylinder are closed and the timing marks are lined up, the rotor on the distributor should be pointing at #1 position on the cap.
                            2003 Town Car Signature - 3.27 RAR, Dual exhaust and J-mod - SOLD 9/2011
                            89 Crown Victoria LX HPP -- SOLD 9/2010
                            88 Grand Marquis LS - The Original -- Totaled 5/2006


                            I rebuild AOD/AODE/4R70W/4R75E transmissions....Check out my Facebook page: https://www.facebook.com/pages/North...48414635312478

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Originally posted by 88grandmarq
                              Most likely you have the engine timed incorrectly, probably 180 degees off (engine timed on the exhaust stroke, instead of the compression stroke). pull the passenger valve cover, rotate the engine until both valves are on #1 cylinder are closed and the timing marks are lined up, the rotor on the distributor should be pointing at #1 position on the cap.
                              Yes- but make sure they're both closed after the intake valve opens. They'll both be closed twice, but you need to watch for them to be closed after the intake valve opens. Then, make sure the piston is at TDC and check the rotor as he said.
                              2011 Mustang GT Premium, MT82, Kona/Saddle, HIDs, 3.73s, 19s, hood/side stripes, UPR 1.5" springs with adjustable panhard bar, and UMI solid LCAs and relocation brackets.
                              1992 Explorer Eddie Bauer, slight lift, 34s, and A/C...
                              1979 Bronco Custom, 351M/C6/NP205, 4" lift, 35s, lots of fender trimming.

                              Comment

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