What do you all think about putin bousch wires on to my 1988 vic 5.0. i figured they'd be fine cause they didnt have no racing wires like i was lookin for. so i went with the bousch premium wires any opions on these. should i use these, or go find the real deal??? also i heard once you use synthtic oil in your car theres no going back to the cheap stuff???
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wires and oil
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I dont know about the wires, but if your car is high milage I wouldnt use a full synthetic, reason being that you might develop leaks since the oil is "thinner" so I heard. If I were you, I would use a semi synthetic blend.
2009 Ford F-350 6.4 powerstroke diesel. 1977 Ford F-150 built 300 six, 5 speed trans. 1976 MG MGB roadster, 359w, t5 5 speed. 1996 Kawasaki ninja ZX6R.
My rod is glowing, my bead is clean, my middle name is acetylene
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and then...
i got 95,000 on it but i was also told i was leakin a little oil so that sucks i might have made the wrong choice sometimes more expencive isnt always better. i guess we'll see shes definitly runnin a little smoother.I am the GOD of ELeCTRIC HeLL FIrE!!, and I BrinG YOu..........
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Bosch is good stuff
2009 Ford F-350 6.4 powerstroke diesel. 1977 Ford F-150 built 300 six, 5 speed trans. 1976 MG MGB roadster, 359w, t5 5 speed. 1996 Kawasaki ninja ZX6R.
My rod is glowing, my bead is clean, my middle name is acetylene
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There do exist performance wires for these cars. Try here
mmm wires
Bosch wires should be fine. Had a set on my VW and no complaints.86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley
91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry
1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal
Originally posted by phayzer5
I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers
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I have never really heard anything bad about Bosch exept that ther +4 spark plugs may not be good for certen motors.For example i put a set of +4's in my '97 CVPI and my oil cunsumption problem seemed to get much worse after that.I heard they burn very hot.Remember this is just what im thinking and just hear say so...
\'91 P72 Ford Crown Victoria 5.0L
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before and after
i switched out the wires and plugs. there doing great. the plugs i pulled out though o my, there was like a wad of corrision and the plugs were like mixed up batteries. some bosch some other two kinds. im like what the fuck this aint no remote control. also the plugs were gaped at 56. i was told to gap at 35-36. the plugs i got were at a 42, i just left it cause i think the maual said 42. any one think different about the gap size let me know. but other than that it went smooth and shes runnin alot better for sho.
kennyI am the GOD of ELeCTRIC HeLL FIrE!!, and I BrinG YOu..........
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Almost 143,000 miles, been running 5w30 full-synthetic for the last 6,000 (since I got the car, that is), the only leak I have is a slight seep from the front drain-plug and that's due to a messed up plug. For your leak you may wanna check both drain-plugs, and also the back of the valvecovers, those are known to get loose and thus cause leaks that look like a bad rear seal.
Gap for the spark plugs I believe was supposed to be 0.045 or 0.050, mine are at 0.055 cause I run the 9mm Ford Racing wires Gadget73 showed you and all MSD ignition stuff, so a gap of 0.042 is maybe too small. About plugs there is the common understanding that 5.0s like OEM parts (Autolite).
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autolite
yeah i got the autolites and i think they were pre gaped cause i actually think they were at the .045, i put it on the gapper. shes runnin pretty good. like she wants to burn a little rubber. is there any kind of way to know i need to gap them more???I am the GOD of ELeCTRIC HeLL FIrE!!, and I BrinG YOu..........
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Leave the gap stock. According to my Haynes book, .050". I wouldn't worry too much about changing them if they are .045 now.86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley
91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry
1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal
Originally posted by phayzer5
I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers
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The way I see it, 5w-30 is 5w-30. Whether it's dead dinosaurs or synthetic doesn't matter. They're rated for viscosity.
Dictionary.com says:
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Main Entry: vis·cos·i·ty
Pronunciation: vis-'käs-&t-E
Function: noun
Inflected Form: plural -ties
1 : the quality of being viscous; especially : the property of resistance to flow in a fluid or semifluid
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That means it's going to act the same whether it came from Fred Flintstone's lawmower or Exxon's lab. I never had any problems with synthetics and I've ran them in cars from 100,000 miles to 285,000 miles. No new or worsened oil leaks were noted. Only smoother function.
That's my .022011 Mustang GT Premium, MT82, Kona/Saddle, HIDs, 3.73s, 19s, hood/side stripes, UPR 1.5" springs with adjustable panhard bar, and UMI solid LCAs and relocation brackets.
1992 Explorer Eddie Bauer, slight lift, 34s, and A/C...
1979 Bronco Custom, 351M/C6/NP205, 4" lift, 35s, lots of fender trimming.
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