First timer 302 swap 94 f150 into 86CV

[86CVLTDGuy]

Oops, think oem HO TB is 58mm…


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[86CVLTDGuy]

If I do go the route of replacing the cam, I think it be easier to purchase something new or different, vs removing one from the worn engine. Is there a size I can consider aside from the stock?

These are used available locally: (ad reads)

The first camshaft is a Kaufmann custom grind camshaft for a SBF 302 351w. This camshaft has 3000 km’s on it. It is a solid roller camshaft, it was in a 351w based 408w stroker. The intake lift with 1.6 rockers is 0.616 in and the intake duration is 304 @ 050 lift. The exhaust lift with 1.6 rockers is 0.640 in and the exhaust duration is 308 @ 050 lift. This camshaft is like new. $200.00 firm

The second camshaft is a comp cams camshaft that I had in a 302 engine but it would also work just fine in a 351w based engine. It is a hydraulic roller camshaft. The duration @ .050 on both intake and exhaust is 230, the lift on both intake and exhaust with 1.6 rockers is 0.603, the lobe separation is 114 and lobe separation is 110. This camshaft has less than 8000 km’s on it. 200.00 firm.

No clue really, but my guess is these are too aggressive.

[emoji120]


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[VicCrownVic]

To avoid the cam removal, can I not move some wires around to appease the ecm?

No. I may not have this technically accurate, but in layman's terms the injector "firing" order is controlled by 2 controllers in the ECM, 1 per bank/side. So when there is a condition to increase or decrease injector duration it will incorrectly do this based on reading from the O2 sensors which are measuring per bank/side/controller. When it doesn't see the result it expects because it is not adjusting the injector it thought it was it then will try to compensate more.

[86CVLTDGuy]

First timer 302 swap 94 f150 into 86CV

No. I may not have this technically accurate, but in layman's terms the injector "firing" order is controlled by 2 controllers in the ECM, 1 per bank/side. So when there is a condition to increase or decrease injector duration it will incorrectly do this based on reading from the O2 sensors which are measuring per bank/side/controller. When it doesn't see the result it expects because it is not adjusting the injector it thought it was it then will try to compensate more.

Makes sense. Thank You.

I’m maybe getting ahead of myself, hung up on all the possibilities, now considering the cam has to go:



Thinking I’ll start by removing items from the truck engine hoping to replace what’s needed with new or different donor parts.

Worried that simultaneously removing parts from the CV and adding them to the truck motor could leave me with gaps of time / not remembering how items come apart etc.

In my head I’m saying - stay warm in the garage get the truck motor ready. Then come time for the swap, it’s a quicker turnaround and less room for error. Allows me to use the car up until swapping vs inoperable parked with parts stripped. Guessing most of the overlap / no run time will be when the accessories come off, hopefully just prior to swapping.

Seems I can safely start tearing down the truck motor without worry of where items belong?

If I know one thing…it never usually goes as planned! FFS! [emoji41]


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[VicCrownVic]

Ha, yes, things often don't go as planned when so many variables are involved.
Makes sense to me that tearing the truck engine down now is no issue since you would really want it all to go back together in the car configuration.

[86CVLTDGuy]

Sprayed most of the fasteners with Some PB blaster… hoping for the cleanest disassembly. [emoji1696]


Wondering how it would work or if it’s possible to swap an ecm? Something I could consider?


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[Tiggie]

Since you are swapping the cam anyway, and you have the truck heads and orange top injectors... I vote it's time to just find an HO cam and ECM and do the HO conversion and gain a pretty decent chunk of horsepower. Plus it's all matched so the ECM plays nice because it's what Ford intended.

The ECM would need to come from an 87-88 Mustang with an automatic, or a HO Lincoln Mark VII (88?-92). Cam could come from the Lincoln or any 86/95 Mustang 5.0.

[86CVLTDGuy]

Okay!
Safe to say I’m on the look out for:

HO cam
HO ECM
HO upper intake and TB.

A few guys in my area seem to have their own little collection of used parts available.
Hoping to grab all of what I need in one place, at a package price.

Any other critical needed parts on this HO conversion?

Thanks again!


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[jaywish]

What is your area?

Perhaps you might want to add that and vehicle data to your profile and signature just to avoid confusion.

[Lutrova]

I believe if you're using a Mustang or Mk VII ECU, you'll want the matching fuel injectors. 19 lbs, I think? They should have orange tops.

[86CVLTDGuy]

What is your area?

Perhaps you might want to add that and vehicle data to your profile and signature just to avoid confusion.

I’m up in northern Alberta, Canada. Brrrr…[emoji3063]


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[gadget73]

so I didn't read every reply.

DO NOT shuffle injector wires around. The ECM firing order must match the camshaft firing order period. If you try and fake it, the fuel trim will not work as expected since one of the cylinders that are firing on bank 1 will physically be spraying fuel into bank 2. With a batch fire truck none of this matters, one O2 sensor, 2 injector drivers. SEFI does not like this.

Don't waste your time with the stock cam either. Its crap and makes no power. The truck cam in 94 or so was the Explorer cam. Its like the stock cam on steroids. Still makes no power over 4500 rpm but under that it does a lot better.

The HO cam makes lousy power under 2500, so unless you are changing the gears, its going to suck. With a 273 o 308, you'll have a much more useful driving experience with the truck cam. 355 or better, the HO cam works well.

Find a Mark VII ECM and it should run OK. Plug it in, run the 19# injectors. Roller cams is roller cams so far as the distributor is concerned. Use whichever one is prettier. Find a ported stock lower intake, run the HO upper, modified HO throttle body, and a bored out stock EGR spacer to sit between it all. Should run quite fine, and probably will make 200-ish hp.

[86CVLTDGuy]

First timer 302 swap 94 f150 into 86CV

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Don't waste your time with the stock cam either. Its crap and makes no power. The truck cam in 94 or so was the Explorer cam. Its like the stock cam on steroids. Still makes no power over 4500 rpm but under that it does a lot better.

The HO cam makes lousy power under 2500, so unless you are changing the gears, its going to suck. With a 273 o 308, you'll have a much more useful driving experience with the truck cam. 355 or better, the HO cam works well.

Find a Mark VII ECM and it should run OK. Plug it in, run the 19# injectors. Roller cams is roller cams so far as the distributor is concerned. Use whichever one is prettier. Find a ported stock lower intake, run the HO upper, modified HO throttle body, and a bored out stock EGR spacer to sit between it all. Should run quite fine, and probably will make 200-ish hp.

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This is Great! Thanks.
Will try it out with the truck cam to start.
See how it runs. I can settle with if it runs OK.

[86CVLTDGuy]

Bit of progress on stripping the truck engine down! No thanks to a stupid T40 bolt buried under the truck plenum!



Got all the Mustang parts including the ECM from a 88 automatic. Including the whole harness.

I’m trying to label with numbers everything that comes off, but I’m having trouble understanding the wiring…

Is the plan to reuse the main plug off the 94 truck engine? Will I have to splice the truck wiring in some spots to match the CV connectors?

Appreciate the feedback!
I do still plan to give it a good clean!


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[Kodachrome Wolf]

Is the plan to reuse the main plug off the 94 truck engine? Will I have to splice the truck wiring in some spots to match the CV connectors?

Appreciate the feedback!
I do still plan to give it a good clean!

Do not use the truck harness. You can completely re-use your factory wiring harness. There is no need to attempt splicing harnesses together. Just totally remove the old truck harness and ignore it.

You're effectively going to use the block and heads. You'll want to borrow your old valve covers, fuel rail, intake heater pipe adapter with the ECT, timing cover, exhaust manifolds (unless you're going to run shorty headers), and oil pan when you swap the equipment to the truck engine.

The Mustang ECU will plug into the factory Panther wiring harness with no modifications.