Verify oil pump shaft installation 88 MGM 5.0

[jrhende6]

Am doing the oil pan gasket change but didn't take intake manifold off. So jacked engine as far as I dare but can't get pan out.

Just going to replace gasket and pump while pan is in place under engine.

My question is with the oil pump. I understand the clip side goes up into the engine. However, this is a blind install since the pan is in the way of me seeing into engine.

How do I know for sure the shaft of oil pump is mated correctly to distributor w/o seeing it? It would be a disaster if the pump didn't pump.

[EaOutlaw1969]

I bought a old cougar years ago that I thought needed a new pump ( from lack of oil pressure ) I just needed to clean the pick up and pan as it had a lot of sludge in the block and pan. ( I ended up replacing the pump cleaning the pan, plus pick up screen and removing the intake and valve covers to clean the heads and lifter valley also.
My Point is your problem could just be a bad pump or may be a sign of a much nastier job waiting for you.
I for one wouldn't attempt a pan gasket job without removing the pan for many obvious reasons.

[gadget73]

If the shaft is engaged in the distributor it won't spin. Kinda hard to miss honestly, there is a hole cast in the block where the shaft goes. Unless you get it way off to the side it pretty much has to go. If you want some verification before it goes together, pull the distributor and look down inside. If the shaft is in the center hole, its in the right place.

[jrhende6]

If the shaft is engaged in the distributor it won't spin. Kinda hard to miss honestly, there is a hole cast in the block where the shaft goes. Unless you get it way off to the side it pretty much has to go. If you want some verification before it goes together, pull the distributor and look down inside. If the shaft is in the center hole, its in the right place.

Thanks. I was afraid of that. But rather be safe.

[jrhende6]

I bought a old cougar years ago that I thought needed a new pump ( from lack of oil pressure ) I just needed to clean the pick up and pan as it had a lot of sludge in the block and pan. ( I ended up replacing the pump cleaning the pan, plus pick up screen and removing the intake and valve covers to clean the heads and lifter valley also.
My Point is your problem could just be a bad pump or may be a sign of a much nastier job waiting for you.
I for one wouldn't attempt a pan gasket job without removing the pan for many obvious reasons.

Thank you. I can see the pan pretty well just can't quite get it out. While in there just swapping out the pump. W/ tax it is $40. Bought the Melling Oil Pump M-68 from autozone

[EaOutlaw1969]

Thank you. I can see the pan pretty well just can't quite get it out. While in there just swapping out the pump. W/ tax it is $40. Bought the Melling Oil Pump M-68 from autozone

One reason to reconsider is the pan is steel and you will find the pan may be deformed where the bolts hold it in place, Normally while the pan is out one would level the pan out with a ball peen hammer while the pan lip is resting on the edge of a two by four piece of wood.

Taking your time and getting the pan out it the best way to do it right, which would require pulling the pump and pick up anyways. so your on the right track just pull the pan, You may need to support the engine from above remove the fan shroud and fan and one engine mount and if necessary remove the intake as well. nothing would suck less then to try it your way only to have it leak worse or go through all of this only to cause a new leak to find out the original leak was caused by a rear main seal or something other than the oil pan gasket. ( not saying the pan gasket wasn't leaking ) I am saying that is a lot of work to get out of a little work if you know what I mean.

[jrhende6]

If the shaft is engaged in the distributor it won't spin. Kinda hard to miss honestly, there is a hole cast in the block where the shaft goes. Unless you get it way off to the side it pretty much has to go. If you want some verification before it goes together, pull the distributor and look down inside. If the shaft is in the center hole, its in the right place.

The shaft spun. I missed the hole. Thank God you said that. Took off distributor and looked down and yep I missed. There is a gap that the shaft can go in. Redid it and now doesn't turn. How do I get the distributor back on w/o a timing light?

[gadget73]

first way, mark it before you remove it and just drop it back in

second way, find top dead center on #1 compression stroke. Easy way is to pull the spark plug, stick your finger in, and use a breaker bar to rotate the engine until you feel compression. Rotate the engine until the pointer lines up with 10 BTDC. Drop the distributor in so the rotor is pointing directly at the #1 cap tower. If you have an old junk cap, break the #1 tower out and use to verify it. The distributor shaft will rotate as it drops in so make sure its fully down against the block, and that its actually pointing at #1. The TFI module should be roughly in the middle of its allowable movement. If its hard against the block or the timing cover its a tooth off.

you really want a timing light to verify that the timing is actually where it belongs but that should get you plenty close enough to start it.

[jrhende6]

Thank you very very much.

Was on a mission and just yanked the distributor off w/o marking anything.

Which way does engine turn? Am assuming one rotates the engine one way.

I do have an old cap.

While I'm in there I see my timing change is loose too.

[gadget73]

clockwise if you're looking at the front pulley.

[jrhende6]

Finally got it started. Running roughish but running.

Used info in another thread "[carb specific] Distributor Installation" which applies to EFI too for getting the timing close enough and the info from gadget73 above. I used the starter method and also the remote start trick.