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**86VickyLX** · 03-08-2020, 12:29 AM

21 not plugged in or not warmed up. the coolant temp sensor is on passenger side of engine in the pipe. The one on the drivers side is sender for light.
24 not plugged in or bad sensor. Check wiring harness as well. on intake runner #5. you need to fix that.
the other codes can be disregarded. No support for the stock ecm to disable those codes but it won't cause negative issues. Though deleting the egr will just raise cylinder temps and decrease fuel economy.

**gadget73** · 03-08-2020, 11:02 AM

The thermactor stuff won't bother anything, but if you want to change the codes you can plug the solenoid in or sub a resistor. EGR is a useful thing to have too.

**larryb346** · 03-08-2020, 04:38 PM

Thanks guys on the 24 Intake air change temp. is that on the drivers side between the front two fuel injectors? If so should I have koeo 5 volt reference volt's on the green wire?
On the smog pump, I had to either remove or relocate it. I had to drop the motor lower and over to the passenger side to clear the steering box and the aod trans from hitting the transmission tunnel. The pump would have hit the big cross member in the 53. I would have preferred to leave it intact but lots of interference issues in the 53.

**gadget73** · 03-08-2020, 05:33 PM

yes, sits between #5 and #6 injector.

http://www.grandmarq.net/oldfuelinjection/page29.html

The smog pump is pretty much useless. The solenoids can be stuck back in to get rid of some codes though. The diverter and bypass solenoids are in a pair, the EGR one lives right next to it. I haven't had a smog pump on either of mine in years. Just needs a shorter belt to retain the AC compressor if you're that. Not a problem. Cap off the pipes into the back of the cylinder head otherwise it will have an exhaust leak. The usual way of doing that is to cut the flanges off the pipe, flip them over, and bolt them back on as a blanking plate.

EGR is not related to the smog pump, other than the solenoid living physically near the bypass and diverter solenoids. My car has EGR still.

**larryb346** · 03-08-2020, 06:17 PM

Thanks
That will get me moving in a direction. Thanks for the link. I have so much disconnected the ac the cooling fans its a mess trying to figure out why something isn't working. I bought the car with engine hanging and wiring in trunk. Previous owner had started some and had cut a hole and mounted the ecm next to steering column and about 2 inches from the master cylinder. With it mounted there I cant put in a power brake booster. Some of the stuff that belongs on the passenger side is mounted on firewall or just where ever the wires allow me to place them. I am still in the "rough in stage" now and will add or shorten wires as I get further along. It would have been a lot simpler to have just bought a stand alone after market harness. I have motor mounted and car running and yard driving. I have most of the under dash wiring cleaned up. I never saw the car the motor came out of but it evidently was loaded out. I have traced wires and removed a lot of stuff cornering lights and relays auto headlight wiring heater wiring. I will eventually pull the engine back out when I paint the car and will try and remove extra wiring from the ecm. Again thanks

**larryb346** · 03-14-2020, 03:25 PM

Ok made some headway. Found and plugged in the egr and air diverter solenoids. They were in the trunk and found a plugged vacuum port on back of manifold. Got vacuum line plugged in and now koeo codes all cleared except the canister purge #85
I did koer and opened a entire different can of worms. I have a #12 cant raise engine rpms #41 ego system always lean #91 right ego system lean and #33 evp egr not closing. Engine runs ok starting faster than before I believe.With the scanner plugged it it did raise the engine rpm during part of test. The test required stepping on brake and turning steering wheel which I cant do since its not the original brake or steering system. After a period of time it went forward and skipped those parts of test. I'm using a snap on mt2500 scanner. My newer one will not connect to the 86 ecm. It looks like the 91/41 code is pretty common on older fords and hard to eliminate. I will start on checking all the vacuum connections and work from there. I have no cats or cross over pipe just straight duals from manifold back to mufflers. I didn't run the engine to full operating temp before test. it had run maybe 5 min. Any thoughts on where to go from here? Thanks Larry

**gadget73** · 03-14-2020, 03:54 PM

33 is EGR valve not opening. Exactly how did you run the vacuum to that? I think the vac supply to the solenoid is the lower port, but not 100% on that. One port you can suck air through, the other you should not be able to. Vac goes to the one you can't pull air through.

12 is usually a bad or sticky idle control motor. I've also had this with junky aftermarket ones. Try cleaning it first and see what happens.

The BOO switch test will just kick out a code, you can ignore this. I don't think the 86 ECM has BOO input anyway. Thats mostly used for computers with cruise control capability, which didn't show up until 1988. It doesn't show up in my 86 Towncar EVTM at least, I doubt the Merc harness is different.

41/91 is usually a vac leak but try it again with the engine fully warm. If the O2 heater circuit isn't working right the sensors may respond funny when not fully warmed up too. Worth a check there. Should also be a ground connection from the ECM harness to the engine, usually at the back of the lower intake manifold. Orange wire that comes out of the O2 sensor harness. Make sure that is connected. I'd also verify that the O2 connectors are on the correct side otherwise it will do some generally dumb things with fuel trim that are hard to chase down. The connectors are identical, you'll have to figure out which is what by the wire colors. Should be a dark blue / light green wire on the left side and dark green / pink on the right.

Heater circuit is black/light green to ground and grey/yellow from a key-on source.

usually there is a cluster of vac connections at the back of the manifold and a couple underneath so make sure anything not in use is plugged. Usually one aiming forward for the canp stuff, one at the back underneath for the MAP, and the tree with I think 3 connections. Fat goes to the vac manifold that feeds brake booster and cruise, small to the fuel pressure reg, and I think the other small goes to the emissions solenoids.

**larryb346** · 03-15-2020, 03:55 PM

Thanks again for the information. Weather here has turned rainy and cold so may be a few days before get back to work on it. I have it buried in shop and need to move some cars outside to get it out where I can let it run a extended amount of time. I may end up having to move the motor forward a inch or so. Its pretty tight against the firewall. It doesn't leave much room to reach back and check vacuum lines and fittings. I set it as far back as I could to have more room for radiator and ac condenser. The 53 narrows in the front and inner fenders slope in makes everything very crowded. Your clear information really helps

**gadget73** · 03-15-2020, 05:07 PM

no prob

http://www.grandmarq.net/oldfuelinjection/page43.html

has a pic of the proper plumbing for the EGR vac regulator.

that site has loads of stuff really. The original site went offline years ago, but we have a mirror here on GMN since its so useful.

**larryb346** · 04-05-2020, 09:25 PM

well back at it again. I am putting in a 1999 Grand marquis under hood power distribution box. I am trying to clean up some of the under hood wiring mess. I have removed the wires from the starter solenoid that were protected by fuse-able links and wired them into the block. I have 4 relays in the 86 harness. One for the horn, one the fuel pump, one I think is ecm relay. Any idea what the 4th one is for?. To keep me from reinventing the wheel since I am sure someone has done this before does anyone have a pin out to change the 86 fuel pump relay and ecm relay to the pin out on the newer 5 pin Bosch or ford type used in the 99 box. On the fuel pump I have pin 1 lt tan with green tracer pin 2 red with white dots, pin 3 orange and pin 4 pink/blk. The other two relays do not follow the 86 wiring diagram colors so not sure what they do. Making headway but still have a lot of cleaning up to do in the under hood wiring and getting stuff mounted. Where did the 86 egr sol. mount? Also the diverter and bypass mount? the wiring to them is very short and on drivers side rear of engine so thinking maybe firewall mounted? I have a 89 GM I had bought to change motors before i went this route and it has it mounted to intake under the black cover the 86 doesn't have any mounting holes under the plate. As always thanks for help

**gadget73** · 04-05-2020, 10:20 PM

AC cutout relay. It kills the AC compressor at full throttle. Should be the black one.

86 EGR control solenoid lived on the passenger side fender. it was the one by itself. The side by side ones on the common bracket are the smog pump ones. They sat right below the EGR solenoid on the fender.

I think only 90-91 had the EGR hanging on the intake. Reasonably sure the TAB/TAD lived on the fender but not 100% on that. 89 should have been over on the fender.

One quirk with the 86, the coil also lives on the fender. Newer ones had it on the AC bracket next to the distributor.

**larryb346** · 04-11-2020, 11:14 PM

More info time. Have the fuel pump and ecm relays hooked up in the 99 power box as well as the two power leads from the starter solenoid protected by fusible links hooked to the fuses. The power distribution box is hot all the time on all fuses. I have at least two more fusible links to deal with. One ends in a plug with 5 or 6 wires in and a jumper between pins on other side and a green wire going to alternator plug. I looks like may go to the alternator light but why 5 wires? I am using the original 53 induction amp gauge so no light needed . If they go to the amp light can I remove all of them or do I need a exciter wire and is this plug contain the exciter wire. This is the 3 wire plug with a larger yellow, green and one other wire connecting to the alternator. The wiring diagram I have only addresses the green wire and identifying it as the amp light wire. Also I am replacing several wires due to them being brittle and cracked. It seems the red colored wires are more brittle and cracking a lot worse than the other colors. Any idea on this issue? The other fusible link is a red/lighter stripe wire heaver in and lighter out. Both only hot key on.
Thanks again for any guidance

**larryb346** · 05-30-2020, 04:00 PM

Is the tin can vacuum canister needed if not running factory cruise control? Am making some headway. Have most of the wiring straightened out and at least getting wires going to the same destination in groups.
Thanks

**gadget73** · 05-30-2020, 05:01 PM

Soup can is only for the factory climate control. Has nothing to do with cruise. Not needed if you aren't using 80s vacuum operated HVAC stuff. And the cruise will work without it if you want to keep it.

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kinda a build thread installing a 86 grand marquis drive train in a 53 mercury

kinda a build thread installing a 86 grand marquis drive train in a 53 mercury

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