Parts pile for future 351 transplant for my '86

[clutch47]

Well, you know how it goes. In the middle of one project and deals show up.
So far I have amassed a 'pile' so to speak of parts for a start on a 351 for Sherrie. I see this engine ready to swap by next fall.
The current LoPo is a leaky a little and getting tired too.
So the D1 351 block I have is virgin. Clean and magged. Stock crank is sweet, and inspected too.
It'll either get the spider hold down holes drilled and tapped or link bar lifters for this. GOTTA be roller.
Stock rods with new bolts, and whatever pistons I get a deal on that are right. Hypers or Forged.
I'm thinking 10:1 or a little under.
Have recently acquired a friends AFR 165s. I'm thinking torque build so the smaller valves will keep the velocity high and help with making lots of gopower.
Shorty headers. I have a set of BBK unequals on the shelf.
So here's the beginning of the unknown for me.
Sherrie is the first fuel injected car I ever modified in any way, so ya'll know what I need to know.
I'm at intake and computer.
There's enough used stuff for mustangs around that I can get an upper for almost nothing.
There's a ton of 351 stuff around here too.
Numidia raceway is in my back yard.
Find a stock or aftermarket used 351 lower.. gasket match and light port it and go.....
OR..
Pick up a standard intake style, add rails, injectors and an intake elbow and try to get the throttle and TV to work...
If I convert to MAF.. would a regular stock 'puter like an A9? run it..?
Hell, the way speed density is despised and misunderstood by so many it might be fun to make that work just to do it.
So.. that's where I'm at. open to advice and opinions.

[knucklehead0202]

Well, you know how it goes. In the middle of one project and deals show up.
So far I have amassed a 'pile' so to speak of parts for a start on a 351 for Sherrie. I see this engine ready to swap by next fall.
The current LoPo is a leaky a little and getting tired too.
So the D1 351 block I have is virgin. Clean and magged. Stock crank is sweet, and inspected too.
It'll either get the spider hold down holes drilled and tapped or link bar lifters for this. GOTTA be roller.
Stock rods with new bolts, and whatever pistons I get a deal on that are right. Hypers or Forged.
I'm thinking 10:1 or a little under.
Have recently acquired a friends AFR 165s. I'm thinking torque build so the smaller valves will keep the velocity high and help with making lots of gopower.
Shorty headers. I have a set of BBK unequals on the shelf.
So here's the beginning of the unknown for me.
Sherrie is the first fuel injected car I ever modified in any way, so ya'll know what I need to know.
I'm at intake and computer.
There's enough used stuff for mustangs around that I can get an upper for almost nothing.
There's a ton of 351 stuff around here too.
Numidia raceway is in my back yard.
Find a stock or aftermarket used 351 lower.. gasket match and light port it and go.....
OR..
Pick up a standard intake style, add rails, injectors and an intake elbow and try to get the throttle and TV to work...
If I convert to MAF.. would a regular stock 'puter like an A9? run it..?
Hell, the way speed density is despised and misunderstood by so many it might be fun to make that work just to do it.
So.. that's where I'm at. open to advice and opinions.

Watch corral.net for deals on parts, i've picked up a ton of shit there, more than i need really. Yes, an a9 computer will run all that stuff just fine. Roller is a fine idea, think there's a set of link-bar lifters for sale on corral currently at a decent price. Far as MAF goes, it's the way to go if you don't plan to go crazy on mods. If you plan to tune the thing, don't bother, as most tuners eliminate the MAF and just use MAP. I'm currently in that quandary. If you want to tinker, i have a Moates quarterhorse and an Anderson PMS currently for sale. The PMS includes an a9p computer. My understanding is that the quarterhorse allows for a lot more adjustment and is better if you really know what you're doing, while the PMS is easier to use and generally works "well enough". That said, i'm probably going to get a Megasquirt because i'm going to be running twin turbos on a stroker in a stock block and don't want to blow it to high hell with a shitty tune/tuner.

165's are a great head and should make that thing a torque beast! What cam do you plan on running? Not sure how standard 302 headers will fit or if you'd need 351 swap headers but either way that stuff is easily sourced. Definitely go with forged pistons, the price difference these days is so minimal that it just seems silly to take a chance. Better still, get a cheapy stroker kit and go 408! That's my dream engine someday. The real hot shit would be to convert to HO accessory drive so you only have to run one serpentine belt. Would also open up a world of possibilities for bolting on one of the zillions of mustang supercharger kits out there. The used market is lousy with those things and they're so cheap. Just food for thought(shoulder devil).

[JeffBoudah]

You will need to run link bar lifters or a regular flat tappet cam. The only way to run dog bones an a spider on older block is with a small base circle cam greatly limiting your choices. They are not cast with tall enough lifter bores.

[sick88tbird]

Don’t try to run it on a OE Ford speed density system...I tried it...on a much milder setup than yours...it sucked. A9P will run it wonderfully. Cheap 72mm mass air meter...mid-90’s CV sensor housing(that bolts to airbox) with the center bar completely cut out, leaving only the sampling tube and use an E9ZE through F3ZE sensor...using any other will not work right. Been there, done that...with an AFR gauge. People who say that those sensor housings won’t work right are the ones that don’t use the proper sensor in that housing...they usually use CV/GMQ or T-bird/Cougar sensors which won’t run right.

[clutch47]

Yes, an a9 computer will run all that stuff just fine. Roller is a fine idea, think there's a set of link-bar lifters for sale on corral currently at a decent price. Far as MAF goes, it's the way to go if you don't plan to go crazy on mods. If you plan to tune the thing, don't bother, as most tuners eliminate the MAF and just use MAP. I'm currently in that quandary. If you want to tinker, i have a Moates quarterhorse and an Anderson PMS currently for sale. The PMS includes an a9p computer. My understanding is that the quarterhorse allows for a lot more adjustment and is better if you really know what you're doing, while the PMS is easier to use and generally works "well enough".

165's are a great head and should make that thing a torque beast! What cam do you plan on running? Not sure how standard 302 headers will fit or if you'd need 351 swap headers but either way that stuff is easily sourced. Definitely go with forged pistons, the price difference these days is so minimal that it just seems silly to take a chance. Better still, get a cheapy stroker kit and go 408! That's my dream engine someday. The real hot shit would be to convert to HO accessory drive so you only have to run one serpentine belt. Would also open up a world of possibilities for bolting on one of the zillions of mustang supercharger kits out there. The used market is lousy with those things and they're so cheap. Just food for thought(shoulder devil).

On this project, I'm going to try to resist 'project creep' as long as I can. So unless a decent stroker kit fell on my head, I'm going to use what I have. I believe 375/350 is easily attainable without being a detriment to the nice manners (albeit a bit tired) she has now. Should be reliable as a claw hammer too..
You wrote "if you really know what you're doing" and when it comes to these EFI things I really don't. I learn quickly, hence the post. I'm trying to learn.
I just can't believe the aftermarket has not developed a computer that you can adapt to a stock system that will fix your issues without a ton of fuss.

[gadget73]

Talk to 86VickyLX, he did just this on an 86. EFI 351 with mass air and a lot of OE parts. He's using Lightning intakes, I think an A9P (or A9L, whichever is the auto one) with a Quarterhorse and a tune. In theory you could do speed density with tuning but few tuners seem to fool with Ford SD stuff. It has about zero chance of running well un-tuned though. Most any 351 intake that can be spun backwards will work, but hood clearance is the trick on a Ford. If you're up for a scoop then you get a lot more options but keeping a stock hood gets tight.

The AC brackets are specific to the 351. The alternator and PS are not. Oil pan is Mustang 351 swap, which is actually a Panther 351 pan to begin with. Pan is easy, brackets are not.

you probably want 351 swap headers to get more clearance with the evaporator case. The regular ones will probably be too close.

I know nearly dick about it, but I think there is a Megasquirt setup that basically plugs into the stock wiring harness, and then you can tune that rather than tuning a Ford ECM. No experience, my own setup is a Quarterhorse in an A9T, which is the Mustang SSP ECM.

[clutch47]

The AC brackets are specific to the 351. The alternator and PS are not. Oil pan is Mustang 351 swap, which is actually a Panther 351 pan to begin with. Pan is easy, brackets are not.
Most any 351 intake that can be spun backwards will work, but hood clearance is the trick on a Ford. If you're up for a scoop then you get a lot more options but keeping a stock hood gets tight.
you probably want 351 swap headers to get more clearance with the evaporator case. The regular ones will probably be too close.

I know nearly dick about it, but I think there is a Megasquirt setup that basically plugs into the stock wiring harness, and then you can tune that rather than tuning a Ford ECM. No experience, my own setup is a Quarterhorse in an A9T, which is the Mustang SSP ECM.

I've been reading on other forums trying to learn about this Victor Jr. Intake with a low clearance elbow rig I see some guys cramming into foxes.
Looks like it'd fit in a box to my untrained eye... I just think about cruise control, throttle and TV connections.
I was involved in a project years ago with a Megasquirt on a Harley drag bike.
188MPH and in the 7.0's.. It was 121 inches. The most absurdly powerful thing I've ever dealt with. Glad I wasn't the rider...
I might be able to re-establish that connection and get some hands-on help there. The mechanic was on the phone with that company a lot...and always said they were awesome.

[sick88tbird]

By the time you put a Vic Jr intake on and an elbow that will actually clear the fuel rails, you’ll be as tall or taller than an aftermarket EFI intake...notice none of the foxbody guys with that setup on a 351w have a stock hood.

[JeffBoudah]

With a 302, RPM air gap, 1" spacer, Holley 600dp, and 2" filter (no drop base) the wing nut holding the hat on just scratches the bottom of my colony park hood reinforcement.

[marquis_82_withneons]

I will also agree that 351 swap headers are what you want. Regular shorties won't fit the 351 in there. I'm eyeing the BBK set specifically for my 351 swap.

As far as the Intake, Im leavning towards a efi for mine also and have done a bit of research Into an efi 351 lower intake for marine applications. From my understanding it's a cast iron version similar to the lightning intake.

[dd345]

The stock lightning lower intake with a ford explorer upper fits under the stock hood.

[sick88tbird]

The stock lightning lower intake with a ford explorer upper fits under the stock hood.

Yeah, but lightning owners price them as if they’re made of solid gold. A professional products upper and lower can be bought for less than what a Lightning lower alone will run you...fits under stock hood also.

[86VickyLX]

Well, you know how it goes. In the middle of one project and deals show up.
So far I have amassed a 'pile' so to speak of parts for a start on a 351 for Sherrie. I see this engine ready to swap by next fall.
The current LoPo is a leaky a little and getting tired too.
So the D1 351 block I have is virgin. Clean and magged. Stock crank is sweet, and inspected too.
It'll either get the spider hold down holes drilled and tapped or link bar lifters for this. GOTTA be roller.
Stock rods with new bolts, and whatever pistons I get a deal on that are right. Hypers or Forged.
I'm thinking 10:1 or a little under.
Have recently acquired a friends AFR 165s. I'm thinking torque build so the smaller valves will keep the velocity high and help with making lots of gopower.
Shorty headers. I have a set of BBK unequals on the shelf.
So here's the beginning of the unknown for me.
Sherrie is the first fuel injected car I ever modified in any way, so ya'll know what I need to know.
I'm at intake and computer.
There's enough used stuff for mustangs around that I can get an upper for almost nothing.
There's a ton of 351 stuff around here too.
Numidia raceway is in my back yard.
Find a stock or aftermarket used 351 lower.. gasket match and light port it and go.....
OR..
Pick up a standard intake style, add rails, injectors and an intake elbow and try to get the throttle and TV to work...
If I convert to MAF.. would a regular stock 'puter like an A9? run it..?
Hell, the way speed density is despised and misunderstood by so many it might be fun to make that work just to do it.
So.. that's where I'm at. open to advice and opinions.

I have a GT40 351w lower intake if you're interested. It's powdercoated black. It's the marine intake so it's made out of cast iron instead of aluminum. I've done the 351w in a coupe thing. My 86 Two door from Texas has a 94 roller block 351 in it now. I will say you will have hood clearance issues. Your best bet would be to grab the GT40 tubular upper intake. It's the shortest profile upper intake. That will basically clear the stock hood with some modifications to the internal webbing. You will need to get rid of the insulation under the hood.

[86VickyLX]

The stock lightning lower intake with a ford explorer upper fits under the stock hood.

The explorer upper hits the hood drastically more.You will have to cut out a considerable amount of webbing from the inside of the hood to make it clear.

[sick88tbird]

The explorer upper hits the hood drastically more.You will have to cut out a considerable amount of webbing from the inside of the hood to make it clear.

Not a concern with the Professional Products 351 upper/lower