The Odissey continues: Fuel pump for a 1987 Colony Park?

[JesusGM]

Is the the correct Ignition Pickup?

https://www.amazon.com/Wells-F122-Distributor-Ignition-Pickup/dp/B000BYGLJY/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1546380777&sr=8-7&keywords=distributor+ignition+pickup+mercury+1987

[JesusGM]

For the record, I change the TFI for a Motorcraft 1 year ago. About 1 month ago, when the problem gets bigger, my mechanic says that the TFI went bad and put another module (not original). The problem was apparently solved, but the stall and shut off persist a couple days after the replacement. Could this being produced by the bad PIP?, I mean, the defect on the Motorcraft module.

[gadget73]

The PIP is down inside the distributor. Its not the TFI, but it drives the TFI. They can get funny with heat. No guarantee its your problem.

and I believe that is the correct pickup.

Is the timing properly set? If its not done right, the engine might stall. Vacuum leaks also tend to make it stall. It might also surge a lot. Temperature sensors that are bad might do it.

http://www.grandmarq.net/oldfuelinjection/page10.html

If the EGR valve sticks open that would also make it want to stall

bad MAP sensors make them run pretty terrible too

Can you get a video of how the engine runs? That might help

I really just hate to tell people to throw parts at problems.

[JesusGM]

Ok guys, I got the code reader today, and the results were:

in KOEO:
23:Throttle position sensor signal out of range?
34:EGR Problems?

in CM:
18: Loss of tachometer input (the car doesn´t have tachometer on dashboard), IDM circuit failure or SPOUT circuit grounded. it doesn´t sound good...
34: same EGR Problems?

in KOER:
21:Coolant temperature sensor. (where is located?) I think I´m confusing it with the dashboard temperature sensor, which my Colony Park has no light.
23: Throttle position?
41: HEGO (HO2S) sensor voltage low. Is this referred to the oxigen sensor?
91:HEGO Sensor voltage low
and 34, again...

I´m a bit lost with all this info. If I understand, the EGR needs replacement, also, the engine coolant sensor and the oxigen sensor need a replacement too...
But which one of all those problems could be the main problem of engine shut off?.
I remember about the code 18 is a terrible code in another thread, is it?, the car is death?
I already bought a new EGR, MAP sensor (just in case), new PIP and distributor cap and rotor...
Hope your wisdom could help me!!

[gadget73]

KOEO
23 - bad throttle position sensor most likely. This will cause a lot of stalling and running issues
34 - egr, could be a lot of things, but it won't cause the engine to stall
CM
18 - this usually means the connection between the coil and the ECM is open. There are two green wires at the ignition coil. One comes from the ignition module, the other goes to the ECM through a resistor. If both of those wires are not connected, you'll get this.
34 - see above

Just a note, the CM codes just mean this happened at some point. It may not be an ongoing issue. Usually I'd suggest clearing these and checking to see if it comes back. If it does not, call it good.

KOER
21 - was the engine warmed up? If not, you will get this code. If the engine was up to temperature, the sensor is in the fitting where the heater hose attaches on the passenger side of the engine. Its a 2 wire sensor.
23 - TPS is bad
41 - oxygen sensor reads lean. This may be a vacuum leak, or it might be a problem related to the smog pump. Try removing the belt from the smog pump to see if it goes away
91 - same thing, other side



34 means the EGR is either stuck partly open, or the sensor is bad. Unplug the green hose to see if it has vacuum on it. if it does, the control solenoid is bad. Leave the hose off and re-test, you should get a code 33. If it does not, remove the valve and make sure there is nothing holding it partly open. If it is closed and not getting vacuum, the sensor is probably at fault or the wrong one. I have fixed this by lightly filing the end of the position sensor until the reading is correct. The valve MUST be fully closed though, or the engine will be prone to stalling.


Based on your codes, I'd replace the TPS and check the EGR valve first. Clear the codes once you fix those two problems and see what comes back. If the engine was warmed up, replace the coolant temp sensor too.

[JesusGM]

Thanks Gadget!!! Really helpful!

I´m not sure if the engine was properly warmed up, i let the engine run some minutes, but will try it again but sometimes, the engine stop and doesn´t allow me to mantain the idle.
About the oxigen sensor, it needs to be a HEGO? (heated sensor), or could be an EGO?
how about this one?

https://www.amazon.com/Bosch-13953-Original-Equipment-Lincoln/dp/B000BZEJCY/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8

About the EGR, I bought a new one, so I will replace it. I will do your test anyway, but if you say that it could not be the main cause of my problem...
I´m trying to find a correct TPS to replace it too!
Thanks!

[JesusGM]

Is this the remperature sensor?
Looks pretty different to what I saw on the web.
Also, it looks glued previously.

[VicCrownVic]

Yes that is the engine coolant temperature sensor that the ECM uses to adjust fuel mixture. Definitely get that replaced.

E1AZ12A648A or whatever compatible sensor that part number may have been superceded with.

[gadget73]

honestly I have never had a HEGO code that was actually because of a bad sensor. If it says its lean, usually it really is lean.

If the engine isn't warmed up, you might get codes for these too. Same if the temperature sensor is bad or if the EGR is hanging open.

[sly]

yeah... fix the ones that are obviously broken, like the temp sensor, reset the codes, and see what comes back. It takes longer to fix things completely, but it will get done that way without just throwing parts and money at it.

[JesusGM]

Guys, I bought a Motorcraft temp sensor, but connectors are different, so I need to replace it for the new one included, but how I know which cable need to be attached to the new one? Any idea?

[VicCrownVic]

If I'm not mistaken, the temp sensor is just a resistor so it does not matter which wire is connected to green and which one is connected to black.
The resistance of the sensor changes with temperature and will measure the same either way.

[Kodachrome Wolf]

I'm using the new style sensor. Just cut the old connector off and wire in the new one.

[sly]

+1 polarity is not an issue here.

[JesusGM]

I changed the temp. Sensor, TPS Sensor and pending the EGR replacement. Still with the same problem....
In KOEO test only remains the EGR code 34.
I upload a video about the problem. The engine starts ok, but after some minutes it stall and shut off. After that, it start again (no coil and TFI problems, since was replaced)