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The Odissey continues: Fuel pump for a 1987 Colony Park?

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    The Odissey continues: Fuel pump for a 1987 Colony Park?

    Hello Guys!

    I posted a thread some time ago about the sudden shut off of my 1987 Mercury Colony Park, specially while the car was in movement...well, I leave the car with my mechanic and the problems on the engine were bigger and bigger, so I take the option of a complete engine adjustment. After 1 month of work and looking for spare parts (not so easy to found in Chile), the car was finished, but it still shut off!!!
    Many parts were replaced or repaired, including change of gaskets, IAC Valve, fuel pressure regulator, water pump, etc...

    Now, the mechanic says that the fuel pump, which has 14 months of use, has no pressure to work properly. The fuel pump was an "Autobest" found at ebay. This is my last resource to solve this problem, so, if eventually the current fuel pump only has 1 year of life, I want to buy a good one now.
    I found the fuel pump with the hanger:


    Is "Sprectra Premium" a good maker for this part?, and has this hanger any relation with the fuel level reading?, which is broken on my car too...

    My other option is only the fuel pump and strainer, maybe a Bosch?



    What do you recommend?. Or of anyone can tell me which is the proper spare part to solve the problem of fuel level reading too...I appreciate your help!!

    #2
    I have been using the spectra premium one in my 90 for the last year. I haven’t driven the car much but it has worked fine so far. I bought it because it’s the only one that came with the hanger, which I needed due to a very bad fuel tank from sitting ten years. You shouldn’t need the hanger, so you can get just the pump. The Bosch one you listed is a good choice in my opinion.

    The fuel lever sender is separate. They are pretty simple things. Maybe just needs a new float or the contacts cleaned. If the circuit board is bad, then you can substitute one from a sedan up to 1989 or so.
    1990 Country Squire - under restoration
    1988 Crown Vic LTD Wagon - daily beater

    GMN Box Panther History
    Box Panther Horsepower and Torque Ratings
    Box Panther Production Numbers

    Comment


      #3
      I do not believe the fuel hanger for a sedan works on a wagon. I don't believe that part will fit your car correctly, but I do not own a wagon to say this with absolute certainty.

      For whatever it may be worth, I fitted a Walbro pump for a Mustang to my original hanger in my 86 Towncar. The Mustang pump is smaller diameter, so it has a hose clamp holding it to the bracket. Its been fine for nearly 10 years now.

      Sending unit can usually be cleaned. It has a plastic cover that opens, and inside is a board with a wiper contact hooked to the arm. Carefully clean the corrosion from the board and wiper. Be gentle with the plastic, it gets brittle. If the float is sunk, its a common float used on many Ford products.
      86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
      5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

      91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

      1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

      Originally posted by phayzer5
      I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

      Comment


        #4
        Thanks for your advice, guys.
        Today the fuel pump was changed, the problem still remain.
        The engine shut off when idling, when I stop on a cross or the run is just erratic.
        I change many parts, spent a lot of money and feel that I'm giving up with the car .
        Probably, if I live in. The States, the problem would be solve now. I don't know what to do...

        Comment


          #5
          I reread your original thread on the problem. Seems you have a new Motorcraft IAC which should be okay.

          Have you checked for codes? Here’s how: http://www.grandmarq.net/oldfuelinjection/page13.html

          I think it would be wise to set the base idle. With the engine warmed up, all accessories off, and the IAC unplugged, set the idle to 750rpm. That sets the base idle. Then plugin you IAC.

          Could be many things. Hoping the computer can point us in the correct direction.
          1990 Country Squire - under restoration
          1988 Crown Vic LTD Wagon - daily beater

          GMN Box Panther History
          Box Panther Horsepower and Torque Ratings
          Box Panther Production Numbers

          Comment


            #6
            has anyone checked the MAP sensor?
            I'm not completely oblivious to reality, I just choose to reject it when it doesn't line up with my opinions. (thanx Thain!)

            Comment


              #7
              Like the others said, lots of things it could be aside from fuel pump. Could be an issue with ignition, especially TFI or uh, hall-effect sensor? WTF is that thing called?

              Comment


                #8
                the PIP, Profile Ignition Pickup.

                Does it produce any codes if you check it with the engine running?
                86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
                5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

                91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

                1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

                Originally posted by phayzer5
                I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

                Comment


                  #9
                  either that or the map sensor vacuum hose is collapsed or has a hole in it.

                  1986 lincoln towncar signature series. 5.0 HO with thumper performance ported e7 heads, 1.7 roller rockers, warm air intake, 65mm throttle body, 1/2" intake spacer, ported intakes, 3.73 rear with trac lock, 98-02 front brake conversion, 92-97 rear disc conversion, 1" rear swaybar, 1 3/16" front swaybar, 16" wheels and tires, loud ass stereo system, badass cb, best time to date 15.94 at 87 mph. lots of mods in the works 221.8 rwhp 278 rwt
                  2006 Lincoln Town Car Signature. Stock for now
                  1989 Ford F-250 4x4 much much more to come, sefi converted so far.
                  1986 Toyota pickup with LSC wheels and 225/60/16 tires.
                  2008 Hyundai Elantra future Revcon toad
                  1987 TriBurner and 1986 Alaska stokers keeping me warm. (and some pesky oil heat)

                  please be patient, rebuilding an empire!

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Is hard to get a scanner for OBD1 Ford here in Chile, since these cars were not so common at the ī80s. American cars were more popular from the ī70s and before and after that, the japanese and european models rules the market until today.
                    I order a scanner for Ford models at Amazon:


                    Anyway, I will try to follow the instructions to scan the computer without the scanner.
                    For the record, here are the parts that has been replaced for new ones:
                    -TFI
                    -ignition coil
                    -Voltage regulator box
                    -Spark plug wires
                    -Spark plugs
                    -Fuel pump (with tank flush)
                    -Fuel pump relay
                    -Fuel filter
                    -Almost all the engine gaskets
                    -IAC Valve
                    -Almost all the hoses of the engine.

                    And maintenance to almost all other components of the car (water pump, radiator, steering pump, brakes, etc...)
                    "Check engine" light never turn on, but it does when I turn the key for ignition (like almost every car), after that, it turn off.

                    Comment


                      #11
                      You can use a test light to get codes



                      just count the blinks.
                      86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
                      5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

                      91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

                      1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

                      Originally posted by phayzer5
                      I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Originally posted by Bad-Driver1 View Post
                        has anyone checked the MAP sensor?
                        MAP sensor is located on the firewall on the passengerīs side?

                        If I remember correctly, the hose was replaced recently, but the sensor is the original from the car.

                        Comment


                          #13
                          double check the hose to make sure nothing has damaged it and that it's still installed. Though the MAP sensors rarely go bad, they do go bad. But do check for codes as that may well let us know what is wrong.

                          Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former. -- Albert Einstein
                          rides: 93 Crown Vic LX (The Red Velvet Cake), 2000 Crown Vic base model (Sandy), 2003 Expedition (the vacation beast)

                          Originally posted by gadget73
                          ... and it should all work like magic and unicorns and stuff.

                          Originally posted by dmccaig
                          Overhead, some poor bastards are flying in airplanes.

                          Comment


                            #14
                            I will, thanks!. But I donīt trust on my capability (or my mechanic) to count the flashes So, I will wait the machine I ordered or find another scanner locally.

                            Besides the MAP sensor, is there another sensor which could cause a similar Symptom? (the engine stop at movement or idling).
                            If I can. I prefer replace all the sensors that could go bad....after all, most of those parts has more than 32 years!

                            Comment


                              #15
                              The digital display is a nicer way of doing it. I have one myself, but the ABS system in one of my cars won't use it and I don't want to spend the money on the special Ford tester. My solution is a jumper wire and counting the blinks.

                              Maybe the ignition pickup. They get funny when they start to die. If you can get a complete distributor, that might be easier than just the pickup. The distributor has to be taken apart to get the pickup out.
                              86 Lincoln Town Car (Galactica).
                              5.0 HO, CompCams XE258,Scorpion 1.72 roller rockers, 3.55 K code rear, tow package, BHPerformance ported E7 heads, Tmoss Explorer intake, 65mm throttle body, Hedman 1 5/8" headers, 2.5" dual exhaust, ASP underdrive pulley

                              91 Lincoln Mark VII LSC grandpa spec white and cranberry

                              1984 Lincoln Continental TurboDiesel - rolls coal

                              Originally posted by phayzer5
                              I drive a Lincoln. I can't be bothered to shift like the peasants and rabble rousers

                              Comment

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