Stalling while cold engine, improvement when warmed up

[sly]

Are the Ambient Air Temp and Intake air temp sensors the same thing? I’m seeing both terms used online and in all data. And one more thing and I thank you guys sooooo much for everything: where is the Intake Air Sensor located. I know the Coolant Temp Sensor is up front where the water hose is connected

No, Ambient Air Temp sensor is for cars with ATC. My AAT is plastic, and my IAT is not. If you have manual heat/ac controls then your car may not even have the AAT.
The Intake Air Temp sensor is located on the driver side of the lower intake, forward of center of the intake iirc.

Edit: IAT is also often referred to as the Air Charge Temp sensor or ACT.
As seen in the pic below labeled ACT:
[ATTACH=CONFIG]49936[/ATTACH]

The coolant sensor on the left in that picture (pass side front) is the important one that you would care about. The coolant sensor on the right in that picture (driver side front of lower intake) is only for the idiot light on the dash.

This... but depending on the data source, the ACT/IAT does measure the incoming air so they may say ambient air temp. Just know that if they are referring to engine stuff... they mean the IAT/ACT and if they are referring to the HVAC, they mean the cabin sensor.

[86VickyLX]

TPS voltage is set too low. Set it to at least 0.9 volts. Check voltage by backprobing the green and black wires on the sensor with the key on. Ignition timing and IAC control idle. Timing and IAC control is influenced by the TPS reading. Also replace all of your petrified old vacuum lines. That will definitely help as well.

[rsolis]

TPS voltage is set too low. Set it to at least 0.9 volts. Check voltage by backprobing the green and black wires on the sensor with the key on. Ignition timing and IAC control idle. Timing and IAC control is influenced by the TPS reading. Also replace all of your petrified old vacuum lines. That will definitely help as well.

TPS Sensor is right on that voltage 0.9 and my vacuum lines are all rubber now and less than a year old. I looked everywhere. No leaks!


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[rsolis]

Stalling while cold engine, improvement when warmed up

*sigh*

Replaced both the sensors because whatever they weren’t super expensive. No change. I did test them too and the return voltage stayed in line to the charts as temperatures rose.

I have linked a YouTube video as to demonstrate what is happening. This blows lol. This is on a decently warmed up engine. When it’s cold the engine will die after one “breath”. When it’s fully warmed it can survive on its own but you can tell it doesn’t want to.

https://youtu.be/x8QLL07bjhY

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[VicCrownVic]

How about the MAP sensor? Vacuum line to that isn't old and cracked or collapsing on itself and throwing off the pressure reading?
They aren't cheap at about $50 at AZ and the cheapest on Rockauto is almost $27, but JY price at Parts Galore is $9.99.

http://www.grandmarq.net/oldfuelinjection/page27.html

[rellik god]

Summarized/Corrected Base Idle Reset version


1. Clean TB with carb cleaner and nylon brush (toothbrush size). Engine off, fully open TB blade and spray/brush TB until all gunk and oil residue is cleaned.

2. Allow to dry, or close TB blade and start engine until it clears all carb cleaner fumes/liquid.

3. Let engine idle...if it doesn't, increase idle speed via TB stop screw until engine stays idling on its own.

4. Disconnect IAC valve, if engine dies repeat 3 with IAC disconnected.

5. Set idle speed to the lowest setting possible between 600-800 rpms with IAC disconnected. It is key to use the lowest possible to prevent idle surge, rolling, etc once the IAC is connected as follows.

6. Turn engine off, and reconnect IAC

7. With Ign On Eng Off, check TPS voltage output....if it's between .7vdc - 1.0vdc, it's OK. This voltage check should be done between the Green and Black wires at the TPS side connector as shown in the pic below....(-) terminal of the DVOM on the Black wire and (+) terminal on the Green wire.



8. Disconnect battery (-) for 3-5 minutes.

9. Reconnect battery, start engine, allow it to idle for 2-4 minutes to confirm setup,

10. If idle speed falls too low or stalls, increase idle speed via the TB set screw a little at a time.

11. Turn engine off for 20 seconds, re-start engine and repeat 9 - 11 if required.

12. Reconfirm TPS output is within the .7vdc - 1.0vdc range.......you're done!...

FYI..no need to reset ECM KAM (reset computer) b/c the TPS minimum value used for idle control, is automatically reset by the EEC-IV every time the ign is cycled on-off for 20 seconds-on, and as explained in the next post

13. Allow a 10-20 minute "relearning" period under normal driving conditions (drive cycle).....now you're done.