Engine Skip & Peristent Rough Idle

[Kodachrome Wolf]

That molded one in the picture with the cracks should be the PCV line.

That appears to be it then. I did pull the PCV since it's easy to get at right now. I've heard about the screens, and mine is in place and very clean. The plastic piece that the PCV valve pushes into is very easy to remove. Should I be concerned and do anything to rectify that or is that just the way it is?

FWIW, the PCV valve isn't stuck and the ball moves freely.

Hopefully next week I can get the injectors, pull the old ones and swap in the new ones, then get to re-assembly. I'll try to tackle the hoses before then. The oozy heater line squirts antifreeze if you give it a squeeze.

Regarding eliminating some extra vacuum equipment, there are two lines that run to the smog/thermactor stuff that's inoperative. One is white, the other black. Would there be a way to just disconnect the vacuum lines from their solenoids and bypass them in a way just the solenoid for the EGR will remain usable?

Since all of the smog stuff is disabled, I don't see the need to have additional trouble points keep existing, especially since I plan to eventually eliminate much of the plumbing over there given it doesn't do anything.

[gadget73]

if the grommet is soft and the screen isn't packed with crap, someone must have replaced it already. Sounds like nothing to worry about.

[TecNickal]

<this guy replaced em!

[lincolnlarry]

Hum... Ya know the only way an EGR makes the engine run shitty is if it opens when it's not supposed to. If its still doing it when you re-assemble pull the vacuum lines off the EGR and see if it goes away.

[Kodachrome Wolf]

Figured I'd give a update to this thread. I still don't have the upper intake back on since I'm waiting on my fuel injectors.

I did remove the old fuel injectors today. I'm banking on these to be original. The one near the heater core line that was leaking was rusting badly. All of them required a deal of persuasion to get them to come out of the rail. Some of them came free of the rail without their O-ring, however, feeling up inside of the rail and taking a pick to it resulted in me finding nothing, so I assume those just fell out or flew somewhere during removal. Only one O-ring remained stuck on the rail, but was obvious since I could feel it, and it was sticking out some.

All of the O-rings on the intake came out without issue. I may spray some carburetor in the holes to clean out some of the gunk on the edges. The bottom faces of the injectors were clean at the pintles.

The new injectors are regular 14 lbs ones, but with the 4 hole setup on the bottom. I wanted to go with this style after Nick mentioned them to me as a viable replacement to the single pintle ones. Based on videos I have found, these atomize fuel better when they spray over the single pintle ones. No idea if they might help economy any, but I'll be able to determine that once things are running again.


Anyway, once I get those injectors, it'll be re-assembly time. I don't like making vehicles sit for extended periods of time since it does them no favors.

[gadget73]

If the O ring was missing, the fuel would pour down the sides of the injector. I'd flip that rail over and have a second look at it. If there is an O ring up inside, you will not get the new injectors to sit properly. Pop the rail off entirely if you can't get enough access in there. its just the two spring locks.

WD40 or basically anything oil like will be a big help for reassembly. O rings don't go together dry very well. Skip anything greasy though, you want stuff that gasoline will wash away easily.

[Kodachrome Wolf]

If the O ring was missing, the fuel would pour down the sides of the injector. I'd flip that rail over and have a second look at it. If there is an O ring up inside, you will not get the new injectors to sit properly. Pop the rail off entirely if you can't get enough access in there. its just the two spring locks.

WD40 or basically anything oil like will be a big help for reassembly. O rings don't go together dry very well. Skip anything greasy though, you want stuff that gasoline will wash away easily.

I used my phone camera to check the holes, and all of them are clean inside, no green O-rings to be seen, just metal.

I'll definitely grab some WD40 to get the new ones in, it took some effort to pop the old ones out after being in there for so long.

[Kodachrome Wolf]

Figure I'll close up this thread. I took my time and everything got re-assembled properly with a minor revision with the EGR: I used the original EGR position sensor. That seemed to have helped there. From what I can tell, it seems to run the way it did before all of the issues cropped up. It doesn't chug around at idle and easily cruises again. I appreciate everyone's help with the problems I was having.

[Kodachrome Wolf]

I spoke too soon apparently.

I took the wagon yesterday and actually was able to drive it over a good distance. Accelerates fine, but decelerating, there's a notable miss. Halting for traffic lights, as the engine idles down, the idle gets very rough and a miss is rather evident.

Today I decided to see if I could rule out the EGR, so I stuck a penny in between the EGR upper port and the EGR pintle and bolted it in place. This effectively blocked off the EGR port. I left the vacuum and position sensor hooked up. Drove around, found it to still be behaving poorly at idle.

I haven't checked for codes yet. I need to get out with a test light, but that may be a few days from now since it's supposed to be raining tomorrow.

I'm wondering if the ignition system needs to be revisited. The cap, rotor, and coil were replaced when I was sorting out the TFI module (all BWD stuff). Spark plugs (Autolites) were done at the start of the onset of the issues when I returned from PA. The wires have not been replaced (seem new enough), but I do need to get some spacers for them so they're just not hanging out in mid-air and touching each other.

I'm really confused as to what is causing this issue.

[gadget73]

does your voltage hold reasonably well when the engine starts running funny? A craptastic alternator could cause this.

try running the engine in a very dark place and misting the wires a bit with water. if you see them arcing, that might be it.

[Kodachrome Wolf]

does your voltage hold reasonably well when the engine starts running funny? A craptastic alternator could cause this.

try running the engine in a very dark place and misting the wires a bit with water. if you see them arcing, that might be it.

I haven't checked the alternator's output, but my dash lights were converted to LED not long ago and they're rather sensitive to voltage changes. Yesterday I was driving at night and the dash was flickering hard while sitting at the red light and I was chalking that up to the stumbling idle causing erratic RPMs and wasn't keeping the alternator charging steady. That was the first time I've seen it do that too. Usually the dash lights will pulse a little everytime the turn signal flashes, but not when I'm just sitting at lights without the signal on.

I'll check for wire arcing when I can. I may be able to put it in my garage for a little bit if my mother goes on her trip, I'll have the space to stick it over there for a bit.

Edit: Figure I should mention that the roughness and stumbling gets worse the longer you remain halted at lights. When you first stop, there's a slight stumble, and after about 10 seconds it gets very lopey. Give it gas to start, and it hesitates a bit until RPMs get around 800-1000 (guestimating) and then it drives like nothing happened.

[HiFiMerc]

Just a thought, but I've had Autolite plugs cause a miss before. Changed them out for Motorcrafts, and all was well.

[Kodachrome Wolf]

Checked the alternator today with a voltmeter. Holds a steady 14.5v at idle and in drive. Engine still will idle goofy. Unplugged the voltage regulator and ran everything off of battery power, I got the same odd idle.

I'll be checking the wired next when I have some time to do any night work. I've been working nights so checking for arcing has been a bit hard.

[Kodachrome Wolf]

I did take it out for a quick drive, and I went to turn around in a parking lot to make my return trip. I shifted from drive into reverse and it stalled. It fired right back up after I put it in neutral.

[TecNickal]

TFI? PIP?

Just cause it's new doesn't mean it's good...