Rough Running and Stalling

[Kodachrome Wolf]

I planned on working on the '87 today, but when I got on the road, it studdered and smoothed out. I arrived at a stoplight and it died. Got it running enough to get back to the house, but it was bucking and stalling.

I pulled codes 18 and 34 with a test light.

Nick told me to run down the MAP, PIP, TFI, and vacuum stuff.

I can start it, it'll run fine for about 20 seconds, start bucking a bit, and then die.

[DerekTheGreat]

Drop a known good distributor on it.

[adam.w.ackerman]

ignition control module.

[Kodachrome Wolf]

New condition, no start now. I can crank all day, but it won't start.

[adam.w.ackerman]

ICM for sure.

[DerekTheGreat]

Drop a new distributor in it, one that is known to work!

[Kodachrome Wolf]

I'll grab a TFI module from work then. It's surprising it would just go like that. It was running fine on Monday.

I guess I get to learn how to turn the distributor so I can remove it. It's currently right beside the thermostat housing.

[DerekTheGreat]

No TFI swap, that might work but just drop a whole new dizzy on it and see what happens. I never had any luck swapping TFI's unless the dizzy was out. Don't be afraid! Just remember where the rotor is pointing for when you go to drop it back in. If Ferds are like Chevy's then you may have to either play with the oil pump shaft to get it to line up with the tab on the dizzy or just bump the motor over until it drops in completely- only do that when the dizzy gear is meshed with the cam gear.

[Kodachrome Wolf]

Here's my only thing: Usually I hear about TFIs dropping out when hot. My car started stumbling and cutting out on a cold engine. It never got to operating temperature.

I've been texting Nick. He's also told me to check the coil real quick since he experienced sudden coil failure on his '89 before.

[adam.w.ackerman]

I'll grab a TFI module from work then. It's surprising it would just go like that. It was running fine on Monday.

I guess I get to learn how to turn the distributor so I can remove it. It's currently right beside the thermostat housing.

That is what they do, they will either slowly go out over time or just suddenly drop; GM had similar issues with theirs. I would not be surprised if you notice that car running better and improved fuel mileage.; my Bronco ran good when i bought and the issues i had i contributed to a truck whose odometer had rolled once and not been documented, started having run-ability issues and left me sitting at work one day. Replaced the module and it was like a brand new truck, come to find out the 77k was right and the truck just had some ignition issues.

The ECM controls timing so it is hard to mess it up, pull the cap and set the distributor to cylinder #1 TDC. as that point you can pull the dizzy out of engagement if you need to (I did to replace the one on the bronco) and getting it back in place will be easier. Mine (On the bronco) is also against the housing so I just turned it back when I was done. Fired right up and purred, drove it home 36 miles without issue.

Get the tool for pulling to module, will save you headaches.

[86VickyLX]

Swapping the TFI module in the car is doable. Mark your rotor location in relation to the cap. Loosen the hold down bolt and rotate the distributor so you can access everything easily. If it gets in the way, remove the support bracket for the alternator bracket. With the special tool or a thinwall 5.5mm socket remove the TFI module bolts, and then push down, the module should slide down and out. Apply thermal paste to the back of the module, not dielectric grease. And reassemble. Put your distributor back how it was and you're done!

[Kodachrome Wolf]

I guess I'll try getting at the TFI tomorrow. I ran out of time today. FWIW, the coil was good.

Tomorrow after my exams I'll get to marking everything.

Definitely hope I can get it back up and running. The A/C in the '97 conveniently gave up today, too. I was going to use it for my weekend trip if I couldn't make the wagon go. Unfortunately, A/C is kinda necessary down here.

[adam.w.ackerman]

there is a chance it is not the TFI, but if it's never been done it needs to be. swapping dizzys seems extreme unless you happen to have one, then by all means do it; the pickups do go out but not as much as the modules. Heat and vibration kill the modules but the engine does not have to be hot for them to fail, cooling down could be what did it in in the first place.

For what they cost compared to even the JY dizzy, and consider what it takes to swap them I would suggest the module first.

[DerekTheGreat]

Actually, it is the pick-up that seems to shit the bed the most. Especially after trolling two threads where dudes change TFI after TFI or try aftermarket dizzys only to swap in a motorcraft one and wham, car runs great again.

The dizzy has to come out to swap the module anyway, well it's easier if it's out. I've done it three times on Ashley's old car. Luckily mine has never needed to come out, not yet anyway but yessiree I have a spare ready for that day.

[adam.w.ackerman]

Like I said, if you have one laying around go for it. if not, i would opt to try the module; it needs replaced either way. and i would only ever use the motorcraft...anything.