Recommended Engine Oil for V8 5.0L EFI? and transmission oil?

[JesusGM]

Hi Guys!

As part of the preventive maintenance, I would like to change the engine oil of my "project in progress" 1987 Colony Park. The oil look ok, but I donīt know when was the last replacement. What is the recommended oil for 5.0 V8 EFI and how many liters it need?

About the transmission oil, there are a popular belief here in Chile that says if you replace the oil on and automatic gearbox, it will fail....what do you think about it?. I heard a lot of theories about it.

[Tiggie]

10w-30 is pretty standard for the 5.0L in moderate climates.

4.73 Liters of oil would be the equivalent of the 5 quarts I am used to (with filter change). Sometimes the dipsticks will show over full with that amount but it is correct.

For the transmission, I have heard similar sayings but I can't say there is much truth to that in my experience. Dirty fluid has more friction material in it, and a swap to clean may cause an already failing (but maybe not noticeable) transmission to slip with the clean fluid.

How's your fluid look? I wouldn't hesitate to change it if it's dirty.

[sly]

If the transmission fluid has never been changed and you have over 100K miles on it, do not change it. Save your money for a rebuild and replace all the soft parts (clutches) when you can. Then change the fluid at 30K mile intervals and you should be golden. If the fluid has been changed semi-regularly (somewhat close to the maintenance interval), no worries in changing it. The problem is there could be no clutch material left and the plates may be coated with a lacquer type coating that would be cleaned off with fresh fluid and then the transmission will fail instead of limping along until you get around to changing the clutches.

[gadget73]

Dexron/Mercon for the trans. Full service including the torque converter is about 12 quarts. Thats like 11 liters.

If the trans fails when you change the oil, it was bad already. If the fluid is not black and burned smelling you should be fine. If it is burned, leave it alone and start saving for a transmission rebuild.

[JesusGM]

Guys, I would like to bring back to life this topic because the change of the transmission fluid is the last thing to do before consider my car with a complete preventive maintenance. Now, the pipe lines to the ATF cooler has been removed because the connectors were leaking fluid. At this time, I inspect the transmission fluid....is not black, is not burned, but is more brown than red. Since I donīt know when was the last fluid change (maybe never) or how many miles has the car (the odometer doesnīt work), Iīm almost almost pretty sure to take the risk and change the fluid...

The recommended fluid is Mercon V? (the oil dipstick says "DEXRON II", is still for sale?) Iīm thinking in Motorcraft fluids...Remember that Iīm in Chile and there are not many specialists on American Landyatch since the European and japanese models hits the market some decades ago...
Please, let me know what you think about my (constant) fear and the correct fluid.

[Tiggie]

I use the older dex 3/Mercon because it’s 1.) cheaper, 2.) I don’t push my service intervals very far, 3.) I have a high mileage transmission so who cares? But in honesty, I like the dex 3/Mercon because I think it will do all an AOD needs it to do.

Mercon V is supposed to be backwards compatible now, so you can use it if it’s more readily available where you are. Don’t use a Mercon SP or LV.

[turbo2256b]

I went with red line d4 fluid this last change works great. Empty torq converter and change the filter. If the pan bottom is full of crap might have and issue, I MEAN REALLY FULL OF CRAP.

[DerekTheGreat]

Oh, our new to us (and now dead ATM) '91 Mark VII had rank-ass nasty trans fluid in it.. We had that stuff flushed out and then had a new filter put in. Shifts great, much smoother and yet still firm with no slippage. I think others have said it, if the trans was going to die, changing it might only speed up the inevitable but if it's strong, it will prolong it's life.

[gadget73]

Change the fluid, you'll be fine.

Dexron II has been obsolete for a long time. DexronIII/Mercon or Mercon V are fine. Dex3/Mercon is usually less expensive but Mercon V is supposed to be the superior fluid. Use what you can get or afford though.

[TecNickal]

10W-30 engine Oil.

Mercon V trans fluid.

[LSE_Dave]

...the pipe lines to the ATF cooler has been removed because the connectors were leaking fluid...

So your transmission is not getting cooled? That's the quickest way to kill a transmission.

Mercon V is the Ford recommended transmission fluid.

5w30 or 10w30 oil is recommended.

[gadget73]

Fix the cooler lines or you will be replacing the transmission. They are absolutely necessary.

[turbo2256b]

I run the factory cooler and an aftermarket one. Running at the autocross temps went up in the 220 range usually on the street runs around 160

[sly]

My 93 runs ~125 (return line) on the highway pulling a ton with the Haden cooler after the radiator tank cooler. It'll creep up to 160 after coming to a stop after a long run. It has yet to see anything north of 160 for any reason since the cooler/gauge install. The dual core F150 radiator doesn't hurt any either. Of course, this is a mod motor as well, but it still has the stock AODe.

[DerekTheGreat]

So which is the better point for the temp gauge install, return or feed line?